It's a sheet of 0.040" aluminum in "Pepsi Blue". I got twice as much as I need for $4 on eBay. The heater pads are attached with RTV silicone gasket sealer to it and the battery cells sit right on top of it.
I agree with Short_Shot. Set your float to 12.6v.
I would also wire your loads so that no loads pull from the starter battery unless the engine is running. Don't use the built-in WiFi router (or anything else) that runs off the starter battery. Add another one that runs off the house...
My BMS came with the heater cables. They have an overtemp disconnect thermostat built into the cable assembly that you can see in the third picture.
Yes, Thats an active balancer by the BT module. I'm not sure I need it now that I have a few good cycles on my battery.
I would highly...
I just ordered a RPi 4 and ESP32 yesterday, starting down this road with Home Assistant. I was going to do just the house, but this topic might get me to do the motorhome as well. I will be following and posting if I have any success.
The seller says each of the two ports can support 10 watts max. They turn on at the lower temperature charge cutoff and back off at the release value. I bench tested this to be true. I do like that built in feature. As shown, I put 2 10W silicone heating pads, one on each port, on an...
B+ is to power the two heater circuits built into the board. The heaters are powered by the top two ports above the B+ marking in the pic. I don't think it's required for anything else.
I like the BMS so far. No problems.
A few pics of my 4S 280AH build with 150A JBD BMS with cell compression, Bluetooth, active balancer, and two 10W heaters all shoehorned into a marine 27 series battery box. The packing foam that the batteries came in makes great insulation and hold the battery in place.
I just tested my Onan 5500 Emerald Gold generator yesterday and the starter pulled about 75-80 amps according to my Victron Smartshunt. My JBD 150A BMS on my 280AH cells had no problems.
I'm not sure what type of RV you have, but for FWIW, my hydraulic leveling system pulls 90 amps.
The longer board is the JBD 150A BMS. They have updated the versions over time, but the basic layout has remained. The smaller ones are 100A or 120A units unless something has changed. Perhaps the vendor did not have the correct picture associated with the 150A BMS.
I'm using three 10AWG...
Max PV input voltage for the LV5048 is 145Vdc. 4 of your panels in series would be 140Vdc. The manual says typical amperage of 80A, so you should be OK there, not knowing your Imp.
So 4S4P would be a good place to be, IMHO.
Battery specs do not give an indication of the intended application. Thanks for providing a link that does.
Would you post a link to the vendor selling that particular model BMS? I can't seem to find that one online. Yes, I do see that you posted the spec sheet.
If you look at it a little differently, you can get the same result from using a variable power supply connected to your batteries and set to the lower voltage you want it to kick in at. Disable utility charging on your MPP and let the power supply provide power at your lower limit.
A 100W combined in parallel with a 200W panel will not typically give 300W, it's probably closer to 200-240W under ideal conditions. You can search "combining solar panels" for the reasons why.
The charger will stay in bulk mode until you hit absorption voltage - 14.2v per your numbers. The...
Exactly. It would keep your batteries from going below whatever voltage you specify. It would not charge your batteries, per se. Your solar would take care of that.
My power supply (the one in the link) has worked fine for me, but you never know.
I would also recommend using upgraded leads...
Good question, I can check and report back when I get home in a few days, but it shouldn't be much. Maybe someone else has a good number.
I'm thinking it would be plugged in to grid power so it would not consume anything from the batteries.
I never had a variable DC charger before this year...
Consider using a 30V 10A bench power supply similar to this - DC Variable Power Supply - connected full time to your batteries.
Set it at your lower discharge voltage, say 24.4 volts. Your solar will charge above that level and the power supply will kick in only when your batteries are at or...