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16.6 amps would require a hefty cable to the panels for the energy is not the same through wire loss. :) I have not seen many controllers that will handle > 100v input and I have seen higher than rated voltages coming from my panels during the winter. I normally run ~70v from the panels and...

I'd say you might want to contact the manufacturer of the batteries and make sure the BMS in each of them will handle 48 volts. They also need to be the same general age and even better they should be tested to be closely matched. The problem with this is you won't have balancing between the...

At first glance, I can only think the charging profile is set to 13.35v as 100%. The voltage of the LIFEPO4 cell should need to be closer to 14.6 to be fully charged. At least at 13.7 to be near the top before the 14.6 voltage is seen as a spike. The voltage range for Lifepo4 is very flat...

While it might be improved and permit 24v total, most circuit designs I've seen at best use 2x max design voltage. Even with a BMS that states it handles series, they all have max voltage limit on the mosfets. Typical is 30 volts. They may work for a time at 48v but I'd imagine their days are...

You might want to make sure the BMS that you use is setup to support serial to 48 volts. Most BMS's I've seen will not handle more than 2x stated voltage in a series configuration. This might be why the BMS's are no longer working. If I was building a 48v system, I would not put 4 12v packs in...

I have 2 400ah shunbin batteries and I replaced all of the BMS's with Overkill. I don't recall your voltage, I'm sure he either has or can get 12v or 24v. The one I used the 12v 120A version and it is working great. Between using the Overkill BMS and an active balancing addon, both are doing well.

I am not familiar with that recommended battery supplier but I know there is a big issue with lithium batteries and car charging systems. Hooking up a lithium battery to a car charging system will overload your alternator and you will be replacing it quite often. If you add a DC to DC...

That is why I mentioned that it would be a greater gain to address the loads than find a way to make a 85% efficient inverter 99.5% efficient. With non-PFC switch mode power supplies in just about everything these days, they waste up to 50% of the power the inverter generates. If I was to go...

Yea, reduces current, increases power factor.

Nice.. If I can keep my data here, I prefer complicated.. :D

I'd like to see this topic started in June expanded upon.. :D A Scope does come in handy.. With induction motors, the magnetic field is generated 45 degrees out and it is what creates the power factor. Adding a capacitor to this moves this power requirement closer to 0 and reduces the power...

This started on a raspberry pi but now served off windows using DOTNET core. Using the S32 now for Temp sensors / relay services using json, that was not from the S32 but I could. It is using SignalR and a SOA2.0 message server that I developed. Everything else on it is JavaScript that can be...

If it uses a switch mode power supply, Cable Box, Modem or PC, it is all the same to me. :P

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Single-line-diagram-of-APF-with-a-non-linear-load_fig1_223224057

I will have to find the scope pictures when I have more time.. Clipping the top of the wave is exactly what the switching power supplies are doing.. The solution to this is to introduce an AC-DC circuit with a APF controller to greatly reduce the losses. I want to build this but at the same...

I have multiple meters as well as my home built power management UPS. In the UPS, I measure only VA, not RMS. That is the problem.. RMS meter shows 300 watts and 5 amps. It takes ~45 amps @ 13.4v to provide the circuit with 5 amps assuming very high conversion efficiency. If I had a APF...

For a motor, adding the capacitor will improve the PF and reduce the amps needed from the inverter. As for LED lights with 0.6 power factor, while it is small, it grows with appliances like TV's, Soundbars, desktop computers, etc. My total losses for these devices are 300 watts or more when I'm...

I will find the video for building an Active Power Factor circuit for harmonic (Switching Power Supplies) and post it. My next power circuit build will be for active power factor correction for switching power supplies.. From what I can gather, they have to be customized for a specific load as...

I would love for that to be true.. 4 14 watt lights installed, 110 watts off the inverter. .91 is the best of them, not the worse.. > 0.90 is considered to have APFC in the PS..

When building my solar tracker, I used 10 guage wires ran 60 feet to the panels / controller. Running 2s2p (4 panels), I would lose 40 watts due to the wire losses. (confirmed correct using a power loss calculator. While the actual conversion might be 4% less, the wire loss in my case was...

Maybe I should write a post and someone can add it to 'resources'? I used a KillOWatt meter, recorded Amps / Watts / Volts and went to this website to get the PF and capacitor needed. This only works for motors, not harmonic loads...

Nice work, looks like what I've built.. I'm using the s32 now because it has many ADC converters, I2c, etc.. This started on a raspberry pi but now served off windows using DOTNET core.

It is funny how people are trying to make 85%+ efficient inverters more efficient when the first problem I have with AC circuits today is the lack of active power factor correction. From LED lights to TV's, none of them have any power factor correction and some of them have a PF of 0.50. This...

That is one way of looking at it but I look at it as a 'Battery Management System', not a Battery Protection System'. I have 4 DIY 200ah batteries, 12v. I am using the BMS to totally manage the battery so the chargers only have to do one thing, provide x Amps at 14.2v. I have 1 75 amp active...

What battery do you have? Maybe I've overlooking something? I can set all settings in my BMS's. It should be shutting down based on the highest or lowest cell, not a delta. It should protect each individual cell, not the pack as a whole. Anyway, I hope it wasn't an assumption that you can...

The goal is to keep the battery within range, absorb all available, if this does it for you, you have the correct settings. :-)

BTW: BMS shutting down charge will force the SCC to go to float..

If you are using this for cycling, not storage, you can use your load to keep the voltage in the battery from exceeding the upper knee.. 28.4v. As previously posted, if you charge at 13.6 (27.2v), your charge will slow once you get anywhere near this value in your bank. What I was trying to...

External Reference: How to find happiness with LiFePo4

If you can set your boost and absorption to the same voltage, it will be best. Anything over 28.4 (14.2) will give you 100% charge current. If you can not set bulk and absorption the same voltage, set bulk to 14.1 and absorption to 14.2. That way, you are canceling the absorption cycle. Here...

As long as your charge voltage is >= 14.2v, it will charge at what you are giving it. I can set the voltage to 14.2v and the top cycle to 13.6 and it will charge at 100 amps. It all depends on your application. If you are using the batteries for backup / storage and are not cycled, it is best...

Rule #1, there is no such thing as a perfect solution. Every solution creates a new set of problems and as long as the solution only creates problems that can be lived with, your solution is perfect.. :cool:

Sorry, I am lost.. With LFP, BMS is master. The longer you keep the voltage at the top of the knee, the worse off your battery life will be. This isn't SLA or LA at all.. It is more of a tub of water, near 100% efficiency that does not like anything SLA or LA related because it harms the...

Once I converted to LiFePo4, I won't use SLA's again. They may be cheaper but their cycle life is very low. My cable company used them and I have had to replace them every year or so and that is for backup / storage, not cycle use. When I have to replace it again, it's getting a LiFePo4. I...

If you can't remove absorption time, can you lower the voltage closer to float? LiFePo4 does not need or want absorption. The further you stay away from the cell top voltage, the longer your cells will last. The issues is the membrane, they deteriorate faster as those ions get excited for long...