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Agree, there has got to be a way :p Also reliability would not be a big issue, just a hobby project. But again, probably a project for another time, for now it will be grid-tied:)

As far as I am aware some cheaper UPS do exactly what you describe, more expensive Online-UPS (also called VFI) always go via the battery, correct me if I am wrong.

Actually found out that in my country I am allowed to connect up to 800Wp to the grid myself without any registration process, just have to let my grid provider know in an informal e-mail. So that is what I am going to do. I still think recycling an old online UPS might be a fun project idea...

So I saw a lot of content here about how to build an isolated off-grid system. Also about grid-tie systems. But what I need is something in between since I cannot have a grid-tie system but also don't really want to spend money on large battery banks.

Ideally I would like any power that cannot be provided by the solar panel to come from the grid. Edit: Also not sure yet what to power with this system, the idea is still in an early phase.

TLDR: Want to use an old cheap server UPS because it already has battery + grid-charger + inverter built in. Also this things are really cheap usually. Ok, so I am trying this as a hobby project and the idea is to build a rather small and rather cheap solar system. Now I get that none of this...

Ok it seems that I got very lucky and was able to fix the issue after trying for a long time. The initial issue was that I set the "sleep timeout" to zero, which means that the BMS instantly goes back to sleep after waking up. As expected with this setting it is impossible to connect to to the...

Ok thank you for the info, I downloaded Version V0.2 . Sadly it is still the same issue. What settings do I have to use with my BMS? Does it have to be activated somehow before connecting?

Hello, today I built my first 4S 12V LiFePo4 battery. I use a Daly Smart BMS (R05W-GB19). With the BMS I have a bluetooth module and a USB cable. (Bluetooth has 4 wires and is plugged in the "UART" port of the BMS, USB has three wires and is plugged into the "Monitor" port on the BMS). While...

Thank you @bdl that confirms what I was thinking. I would be using a BMS anyways and the purpose of the DC to DC is mostly to limit the current. What voltage should I go for on the DC to DC power supply? Do I want it to be slightly higher or slightly lower than the cut-off voltage of the BMS...

I think they might be referring to a different lithium chemistry:unsure: I guess the 13.8V version might work but it might be too high:unsure:

As far as I understand I need a 13.6V CC-CV charger for my LiFePo4 battery chemistry, is that true? Yes the 18A version of the Victron energy would be my other choice. I think ~20A should be fine in combination with my solar system.

Hello Dear DIY Solar Community, my Van Build currently has two 100W Panels with a Tracer MPPT and a flooded lead acid battery. While Driving a simple relay is what connects my solar-battery to the starter battery of my vehicle using a 200A relay. This solution is simple and works. Currently I...