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I literally just received 16 more eve280 and x4 bms so I can split my current 2p8s into x2 8s packs and have x4 8s packs in paralell with every cell monitored. There is no advantage to running non garanteed cells in paralell. Or garanteed ones, for that matter. The 4 bms cost me $400. Daly...

I did. He then sent me a photo of another cell like mine that "EVE directly to the buyer" but YOU CAN SEE THE OLD QR under the reburn He assures me they are authentic He even sent me photos of some papers he printed off that maybe look like they could be anything to do with something And did you...

so what approach works best when confronting your sales agent about the fraud? Feel free to DM or email me (myusername at hotmail) so it's not on a public facing page, if you prefer

There is a big difference between passing off b grade cells as a grade when there is no differentiation. It's absolutely fraud to do the same and fake the qr code intentionally You are entitled to your opinion I hear you That's enough debate about ethics tho

But how do I prove that to my bank? I figured that my other cells were B grade, but they have been doing great, AND the QR code is probably original and unmolested. One *could* argue that they are "A grade" performance blah blah blah. I'm not saying it would be right, but there is a broken leg...

From xliporc, yes. "X" sharpie is xliporc and "D" is "donguang belifine" Dongguan Belefine is also this most recent order with obviously fake qr codes

Alkaline, how do I *know* what a legit Eve Qr code looks like? I'm not doubting that they have burned over the original QR code, but if I go to my bank, then I want to be able to say "here is a legit qr code and how we know it's legit; and here is the fake qr code and we know that it's fake...

Right! But, *that's what's gonna happen anyway. I have 36 cells to mix and match 16 have been used in 2p8s for a coupke years 16 were just deleivered (with fake qr codes lol) And 4 are leftover from building that first pack 2 years ago

I want to test some new cells that I received I have an icharger 308duo that has data logging (I also have an ISDT P20, but am less familiar with that than my Duo) Is there any reason that I can't put a load on an 8s battery and use the 308Duo to monitor the cells for health? I realize this...

OMG I'm learning so much about fraudent qr codes here is a comparison of one of my batteries qr codes against a genuine eve grade b qr code and the AUDACITY My sales agent is telling me that my qr code is the same as all the other qr codes and posted the other pic Bruh. You can literally see...

LOL.... I just checked my other EVE cell's qr codes and they all seem to be clean and legit 8 came from Jenny Wu/ExlipoRC and 8 came from *THIS SELLER* in two orders of 4 batteries each order. They seem legit/authentic. QR Codes from both companies attached I got the 4 BMS and WNT boards today...

OH, Nah, these are absolutely gonna get installed/used. I already have 16 eve280s that are 2 years+ old. I'm expanding my bank. The question is if I got what I paid for and if I'm going to get any money back for tye fraud

Mine a re Really similar looking to those. I posted pics of my baateries on 1st page of this thread Agent showed me pdf for bt280 Made the sales slip for eve lf280k And sent me probably grade b with redone qr codes

I used my credit union's credit/bank card (mastercard) and my bank is *really good* about fraud/etc Now I"m chomping at the bit to get these other 2 boxes ups delivery today. I got 5 of them yesterday.

He said they were Batterotech BLT280's But they are qr coded (fake) Eve.... I thought they I just misunderstood something. I still have 1 more box and the bms's to receive And then I'll lodge a complaint. Advice on how to proceed with assurance and alibaba is welcome

Don't cry for me.....Alkalineeeeh (you have to sing that in your head for it to make sense) But thank you for your help and advice! and that is sincere Aye, I had decoded that already, and noticed that it doesn't match the white sticker on the side's date Alkaline had pointed out that the white...

I am rabbit hole reading a bunch of posts on diysf I also emailed EVE a pic and question, not sure if they will respind or be helpful. Peeled back the black cap. Jezus that glue is hard to dissolve/clean Smaller qr code 23218HF06441

Better pic of qr code Also, sticker on the side

Well, I have x16 of these. I'm going to compare between them amd do some more reading Thank you for helping and getting me started

Thank you, this is what I was asking for

-How do I know that the black plastic on top or the qr code was just not %100 centered? It doesn't appear as though my qr code is ontop of another/previous qr code -The laser etching feels right, to me. -The color around the qr code is just the aluminum that it's etched into If I...

Please explain what specifically lead you to that conclusion. I am asking sincerily. I see your pic of the fake qr code. How do you know mine are fake <i have edited this question>(i am also about to go try to peel/investigste mine rn) I see octagonal terminals on your b grade example pics...

Let's assume nickle plated copper Are those good enough for 280a? I'm running my full time camper off a multiplus 24/3000. That should only be 150a sustained, but if I forget and run the microwave and ac and water heater etc then I have pulled 250a out of my existing 2p8s pack

I scanned 1 cell with my camera earlier and it just brought up an alphanumeric string. EDIT Yep! I just decoded it at power gobel or wherever and it looks right. Very cool. THANKS Y'ALL FOR THE CONFIDENCE!!!!

Nickle plated copper, sfaik

I am not new by any means, but I did just buy 16 of these sells and I don't keep up with the Jone's when it comes to what the new stuff is. I'm just making sure I got what I thought I ordered (which I think I did). Ordered from Dongguan Belifine Also, how many amps are the stock bus bars...

This is about what I'm trying to do I don't know who I'm replying to with the rest of this info, but I'm not the kind of guy to spend hundreds of dollars on something I can build for 20 bucks. I literally have one and a quarter inch wide by quarter inch thick copper stock sitting right here...

What method did you use to connect your batteries in parallel? I am reconfiguring my system for <reasons>, and will end up with x4 8s eve280 batteries with a Daly BMS and paralell communication board each, plugged into canbus on a VenusPi. I want to be able to remove one or more batteries...

How did that work out? I just ordered 4 of those bms with parallel adapters and 4 of the wnt boards

If you want to setup, manage, monitor, or otherwise access your victron equipment then a Victron Cerebo will let you do that with Victron Connect or Victron Remote Management as will the Victron CCGX (color control gx) which also has a built in LCD Yes, I have a BMV712 (I think it's a 712. 750...

Well, trigger pulled and we'll see how it all works out. I have 16 more eve280's on the way 4 Daly 250 8s paralell BMS and 4 Daly WNT boards I'll end up with 4 8s 280ah battery packs. I'm going to use the BMS to monitor each pack seperately and then the BVM to monitor the whole system.

These have been really great answers and exactly the kind that I was looking for. THANK YOU EVERYONE!

have you looked into a ccgx or venuspi? you can use the vrm portal to access that data from anywhere. I"m actually looking at using daly paralell bms and wnt com boards to plug into my venuspi to be able to track and access even more data I'm actually waiting for my chinese supplier to get me...

And this is what I was thinking. I feel like there are many parrots repeating what they have read who don't actually understand why and where you want a shunt.

Please read all of it and answer the overall question, I'm not looking for specific advice, I'm trying to understand a concept. I am looking at building and using 3 separate battery packs with Daly BMS Why can't I just use the BMS as the shunt? Why would I need to add an extra shunt to the...