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XiaoxiangBms on iOS.

It’s what I have available. 496/0 would be superior, but at what point is good enough, good enough? I ran 150a for about as long as I’ll run it and it got hot enough that I could only touch it for maybe 4 seconds. https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html says I’m well within tolerance.

Here’s a quick diagram: I’ll be using this to live out of my jeep for a few months while traveling. For cooking, I’ll be using an induction cooktop (1800w) and an air fryer (1700w), but obviously not at the same time. In the evenings, I’ll be powering my heated blanket. Most of the day I’ll...

This is awesome! I suspected you could do it without a bms. Can you provide any other info? What voltage are they charging at? Is your car a smart alternator? How has this held up?

If you’re running the iOS app and seething “MOSFET software locked” and getting the message “port change failed”, check out this setting:

I found this thread after searching for the same problem. Cycling the “batt on” and “batt off” did nothing but show a message that said “Port change failed”. Disconnecting the BMS also did nothing. After thinking I had a bad BMS for days, I started to fiddle with settings preparing to call...

Yeah, that’s what I thought as well. I’m not convinced the different colour means they HAVE to be separate cells.

Actually, this guy got 66%. This spec sheet says 70% +\- 5%: https://signaturesolar.com/content/documents/BLUESUN/BSM460M-72HBDspec.pdf I’m really leaning toward the flip over design because all I’d need are stainless hinges they sell at home depot for a few bucks. I’m thinking I’ll have...

Any chance you ever got an answer to this? I came up with the idea independently and I wonder what you found.

Why is that?

It’d depend a lot on the application, no? Generally I would agree. These are the renology 50w flexible panels and are going on top of my Jeep’s camper pop top. I have the Victron 100/20, so I’m 20-25% below the amp capacity.

I should have mentioned this is for solar panels. Does that make any difference?

What will the results of them being not well balanced be?

I feel like this is functionally similar, but is it? Any reason not to do this if I want to avoid a 6 to 1 connection?

I don't disagree, but I wouldn't outwardly laugh at anyone if they confuse terms in my line of work. Just bad manners.

My experience as well. It was interesting to browse the store, but it was very obviously geared toward the professional welder, including the lady that laughed at me for calling it "wire" and not "cable".

I buy my cable from https://www.customcableusa.com (used to be geniunedealz.com). It's not advertised as such, but they've always sent me EPM Marine Master cable. Once I thought I'd try and save some money and went to a local welding supply store. I ended up spending a decent bit more and...

Maybe 1/8 inch.

I’ve got a tiny vise. I just threw the buss bar I. It and bent it by hand, no problem.

Ok, cool. I appreciate it. I hadn’t seen anyone else do that and I just wanted to make sure there wasn’t an obvious reason why.

While building my 4s battery, I’m thinking of taking a spare buss bar and putting a 90 degree bend in it so my main positive/negative an be accessed from the long face of the battery side where my bms will be located. I’d place some rubber reinforcing so that this buss bar doesn’t add any strain...

I adjusted the Orion to just 0.02v above the battery. Same results. I also tried various (above and below battery/Orion’s setting) power supply voltages, same result. If the battery is asking for too much current, wouldn’t I be getting the same results when it’s power cycled and when the output...

Ah, so if I’m reading this correctly, it is possible to have separate charge and discharge disconnects in the battery, right?

It’s a temporary solution, but I don’t disagree. It’s fused at 20a. This problem is repeatable with or without the cig lighter.

Ok, an update: while fiddling around (disconnecting the Victron output to measure its v output) and then reconnecting, it suddenly is working. GREAT, now I turn the power off and back on to test and we’re all of a sudden not working again. 3 observations: 1. with everything disconnected, the...

11.78 with the power supply attached and 11.78 with the power supply not attached. I think this is the same thing you're asking, but I didn’t detach the Victron (shouldn’t make a difference if it’s not powered, right)? I don’t think it’s the battery because if I hook up the bench power supply...

This is what I would think would be a simple setup, but I can’t get it to work for some reason. Using these two components: Battery: https://battlebornbatteries.com/product/12v-lifepo4-deep-cycle-battery/ DC to DC charger...

I know the inputs to these fuse boxes typically go through the top and bottom posts, but I figured putting the dc to dc charger in the middle section would give me a fused input. Am I wrong? The intent here is to have the fridge run from the battery when the ignition is turned off and to have...

This will work, right? I know the inputs to these fuse boxes typically go through the top and bottom posts, but I figured putting the dc to dc charger in the middle section would give me a fused input. Am I wrong? The intent here is to have the fridge run from the battery when the ignition is...

Ah, you’re right. I just ordered the 9 amp one. It’s only $67… but not Bluetooth. Oh well, I guess it can’t hurt to have one around as a backup.

I can spend a little… especially since I’ll need this in the long run. How about this: Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-Volt 18 amp 220-Watt DC-DC Charger, Isolated (Bluetooth) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0851TPKV7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_5667EKRSK0NKZ0D5MSF0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 It should...

Good point. I figured it would just regulate current and only supply 5a at 13.8v. But if the battery asks for 50a, it has to give it, right?

Oh nice find! I like the form factor… I don’t have to worry about bumping the knob or accidentally spilling something. From what I understand… with 13.8v I’ll never be able to get the battery totally full as that would require 14.6v. 13.8 will get me 90-95%… right?

Yeah, that makes perfect sense and exactly what I was expecting. I’d go a little higher, but I don’t want to stress the cigarette lighter. Other than “this will take forever to fully charge the battery”, anyone see any drawbacks?

Hello, I'm in the process of building a larger system, but it's not going to be ready for a trip I have coming up this next week. For this trip, I'll have a Battle born 12v/100 ah battery and a 40L fridge and maybe a heating blanket. I won’t have a way to charge the battery, but I will be...