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Wire sizing was something I had taken into consideration designing my system. From the panels to the mppt to the battery it's all 8AWG at a run of less than 15 feet. I think that should negate a lot of losses, but I should double check with the new projected amps before I decide. If I were to...

I'm not too concerned about clipping, I'll just get more power on less optimal days. I have a 280ah lifepo4 12v battery, so I've got plenty of charge current available. My BMS supports 120a, and I think the batteries could go higher if not throttled. What would the downsides be of running in...

Here's the listed specs for the panels. ELECTRICAL CHARACTERISTICS Power at MPP2 PMPP [W] 210 Short Circuit Current* ISC [A] 9.85 Open Circuit Voltage* VOC [V] 24.9 Current at MPP* IMPP [A] 9.3 Voltage at MPP* VMPP [V] 22.4 Efficiency[%] ≥ 18.7 Maximum System Voltage VSYS [V] 1000 Maximum...

Dang, that sounds like a crazy setup! I have the Epever Tracer 4210AN and my panels are flat on the roof. I don't think I'll really experiment with angled, I like the small amount of stealth I have. Max Voc for the mppt is 92V at temperature 25c. I'll look for my current panel specs. I...

I've been running my system off of 2 210w panels in parallel and want to upgrade to reach my Epever Tracer 40a MPPT's max charge rate. After some reading I realized that 520w isn't the max wattage allowed thought the mppt for my 12v battery, rather it's the minimum wattage to achieve 40a...

Thanks all for your help!

I changed my settings according to this info, and I think I'm good! When my battery used to get full the BMS would turn off charging, but now the SCC controls that. I haven't noticed the "resetting or surging" issue anymore while testing in similar conditions.

I can set the equalize time to 0, but can't set the equalize voltage to zero. I can also set the boost time, it's set to 120 minutes by default.

Sweet, I'll try this out. I couldn't turn off the fancy settings so I just set them at 13.6 as well. I'll check out tomorrow how I'm doing in the same conditions again.

I'd like each cell to Max out at 3.4v even though it's rated to 3.65 or so just to save some of its longevity. So what should my parameters be set to for these other settings if I want a Max 13.6v battery?

So there are a few parameters I would need to change. It's currently set at a 14.4 disconnect. But I can't just adjust overvoltage, I also need to adjust these other settings I'm not so sure about. Here's a page from the manual stating some info regarding priority.

It should be set to user, but I'll make sure it's set to a lower voltage than the BMS.

Yes

The SCC is the Epever Tracer 4210AN

Hey, thanks all for your replies. I'll get some more specific details when I can, but I'll say what I know off the top of my head. I run everything off 12v dc through my busbars hooked straight to my battery. All that is connected to that busbar includes; DC block, 1500w inverter/charger (I...

I'm not sure the best section to post this in, I'm just hoping to get any input. I've noticed that while I'm in sunlight nearing a full charge, and I'm drawing power there's a moment when the battery become fully charged where something in the brain of my system hiccups or "surges". Most of my...

Overall, I'm not trying to squeeze every ounce of performance out of all the components, I just want something that can provide me enough power for my needs without catching my whole van on fire. All my appliances running at the same time shouldn't exceed 150amps, and I'm ok with not running...

I think the site said something like 500 amps, but I'm not too keen on testing that out.

I can step up to 4/0 if that helps. I'll get on the lookout for a Daly 4s as well. Thanks for the help!

Oh, I may have sent the wrong link, I'm gonna double check my physical inverter in case, though. I'm pretty sure I ordered the 12v.

So besides the BMS, what else would you say is bottlenecking my system? Also, if you have reccomendations for BMSs I'm all ears.

The only appliances I'll use with the inverter are a pressure cooker occasionally, battery chargers for my sound gear, and MAYBE a pc if the sun is shining bright. I don't think I'll ever push the system past it's 1500w, but I guess I should stick with the 300a fuse?

I went with the Overkill Solar bms. I heard great things, and the note he left in the packaging makes me 100% happy with the purchase. I haven't used it yet and wouldn't hesitate to buy from him again. It's only 120a, does that mean I'll only ever max out at 120a draw?

Yeah, I'm gonna be on the east coast most of the time, so not as much direct sun exposure as the west lol. What are the benefits of series over parallel though? I haven't really heard any yet.

I went with the cheap Sigineer brand for the inverter/charger. There's not much I want to run off it, so I wasn't too concerned. I mostly wanted the charging feature for emergency cloudy days.

Just between the MPPT and Busbars? The panels to the MPPT could still be 10awg? Also the distance between my panels and charge controller is going to be less than 10 feet.

Would you recommend I step down the inverter fuse to 250? I've only got it rated that high because it has a surge of up to 4000w. I don't foresee ever using that much in my system. The DC fuse block is a cheap one from amazon. The positive/negative busbar system is the Victron Mega Fuse Holder...

Hey all, I'm starting a buildout and just started to look into wiring/fuses the day before last. It's just as complicated as I feared, but I think I've gotten somewhere with my blueprint. I've already bought the batteries, BMS, panels, inverter/charger, and MPPT; so I'm building the system...