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There's probably only a handful of days in a year when I don't reach absorption voltage due to heavy rain. Excess panels are cheap insurance. Like having it and not needing it is better than needing it and not having it

Off the top of my head my choice would be 14.2v, 30mins, float @ 13.4v, 0 temp compensation Why the goal of 85% when you drop anchor?

That's good for you! High speed wireless that is faster than cable is not available where I live, Australia.

I'd wire all panels in parallel

A Victron RS 450/200 is in the 10kw ballpark 48v How cold does it get where you live?

float @ 3.35v/cell is my preference in accordance to everything I've read on the net over the last few years.

i don't follow what you mean by much easier to ship and harder to setup? I use both 12v & 48v, each serves it's own purpose.

Be good to know the pv array sizes and open circuit voltages.

I think using a switch behind the pedal is the simplest answer. Similar to the brake light switch on a brake pedal.

That's what I did with a Victron 75/15 and a 35L dometic/waeco fridge. In my case load was never more than 3A (running directly from 12v - no inverter)

i use 18v makita batteries with a 3amp 13.8v buck converter (& makita battery adapter) The 5ah 18v batteries are 90wh Great for all kinds of little projects

I don't see excess solar as being a problem. I really like mppts which have a float relay function so you can automatically trigger opportune loads once batteries are floating.

You can use the streetlight function and an NC relay. Streetlight function works on pv voltage and interrupts the NC relay. I ❤️ the streetlight function. It triggers many things in my shed to turn on/off between dawn and dusk. Having multiple mppts allows different trigger points for...

Oh yeah! Exactly the type of breaker the rest of the internet says DO NOT USE They work well as isolators though, I have a bunch of them. Just don't use them as breakers per se :)

Yeah I think 3c is fire worthy. +1, although only 17c here.

2s2p might be workable with those panels, I'd give it a go. I estimate 91-92voc at lowest recorded Tennessee temps (using a factor of 1.25x) ;) I estimate some power loss in warmer months as PV voltage decreases, but then you've got longer days to make up for it. Trial and observation is...

Where are Victron 100/50 units made?

I use distilled or deionised water and a brush.

not off the top of my head, they're on my roof. They are just the usual run of the mill 175-190watters that were popular in 1.5kw kits about 10yrs ago, all 2nd hand 1600*808mm If you are in Tennessee and are in need of a 48v controller, i suggest a 150v option as a minimum. As eggo has said...

I have two charging a 48v AGM bank. 2x 2s4p 72cell arrays, 1.52kw & 1.43kw (1.16kw net charging power for each 100/20)

Keep the wind system separate to the solar system. If you live in a suitable area, wind works well. If you don't live in a suitable area, wind doesn't work well. Adding wind and making it work for you is a whole new learning process. A friend of mine had a 700w turbine on top of a 6m (19.6ft)...

not possible on BP series

I suggest looking at Epever BP series, 30a would be sufficient. They are okay, but are pre-programmed to Equalize 14.6v for 120min, boost/absorb 14.4v 120min, float 13.8v, temp compensation -3mv/degC. You would need an RS485 adapter and mt50 for programming.

I think you'd be better off with a buck converter to run 12v accessories. Unsure about continuity with lifepo4, i have only lead acid

Steel is my preference. I don't see a problem with metal around batteries if it is designed well Your wooden shelving looks very tidy though :)

You already said it. If that's you're goal. The purpose of over-paneling is to increase your nominal output during overcast/rainy days and to generate a bit more when the sun is lower in the sky at morning and afternoon. I'd suggest if you're worried about being maxxed out, leave it all setup...

Absolutely,

Like 2000w PMPO speakers which are the size of teacups

If you go the victron route, it's a sensing module that communicates battery voltage & temp (of the battery) with the charge controller

Taking all inefficiencies into account, I hypothesized that I might need 2.7kw pv to supply 1.5kw charging power to my EV We charge ours with grid-tied solar during sunlight hours about 90% of time. Every now and then have to do an "overnighter"

Yeah heaps, just do a search Renogy, Ampere Time, LiTime, Redodo to name a few Presume you mean 130a ;) Consider purchasing an adjustable mppt with low temp cut off (if desired) like a Victron 75/15 smartsolar & battery sense

Yes, I've seen that also.

I don't own a "precharge resistor" Having 4 groups of 12v agm batteries I connect up the negative, then tap the postive on the 12v, then the positive on the 24v, then positive on the 36v then connect it straight up to the 48v with minimal sparking. I've also used a 0-30v bench power supply...

what a top bloke :)

I live in Perth, Australia, it rarely gets below 1c Highest recorded voltages are 90.25v & 90.14v