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Fantastic! Once you've dink'd with 1015 for a bit... would you mind noting the differences/enhancements you saw in 1026? Thanks

As many of the posts in this thread can attest, the newest doesn't seem to be better. I see 1014 is still the Play Store version and I still use 1015 which is the one that successfully got me out of this problem. I'm a little gun shy and your post further convinces me not to upgrade. Doing a...

I probably should have re-iterated in my question for clarity, but his question pertains to Lithium based batteries, not lead-acid. Lithium batteries should not be stored fully charged.

Thank you... Now that explains the difference between passive and active (waste highest cell versus transferring it to the lowest). I had just finished re-top-balancing as you suggested... each cell up with it still assembled. Thanks.

My volt meter has limited accuracy as well and considering the app has 3 significant digits, I'll go with that. Just for shits and grins, I turned off "Charge Balance" and for the first time, I finally see something in the circles to the right of the battery voltages. I'm guessing that...

I think these two "wordings" are for the same feature. I had my built battery sitting for two months at about 40% discharge (reading here that storing at 100% SOC was bad on cells). No external loads were on the battery during the two months. The Bluetooth was on as I checked in on the...

Overkill BMS, xiaoxiang 3.1.1015 It may not have been clear, but... I said you cannot connect two phones to the same BMS. Once a phone is linked, a second phone cannot connect... even if the linked phone is turned off. I see the benefit in a EV bike scenario... it is like a set of car keys...

Driving versus Monitor mode is a configuration set manually. Lock is also, but seems to be only access when in the Driving mode. Apparently the app is mainly for EV bikes. Maybe that way someone can't drive off with your bike without your phone also.

I'm not exactly sure what I did. I didn't short anything, but I was charging and then connected a trivial USB port to charge a tablet off the battery while it was charging. I also, was fiddling with multiple phones and tablets trying to connect them to the BMS. I discovered only one device...

About to go on a trip and this new battery / BMS (Overkill Solar) was going to make it pleasurable. I got in this state Discharge: off / Protection: Locking. After trying different things including disconnect/re-connect wiring, I found this thread - I tried just toggling back and forth and...

I wanted to thank this forum for all the support. Especially Michael B. Caro for his infinite patience in my first purchase with China during extended shipping delays and of course Will for all his great video tutorials. NO way could I have done this without those. Here are my almost final...

Is this commonly used? I've not seen this on the forum... or hadn't noticed it.

That makes perfect sense for a large, house system. My design paradigm is for a single 12V, 272 Ah battery boat system. 90% of the loads will be 12 VDC and the Inverters are ONLY for luxury items and will be switched on for their use and turned off afterward. So... no standby losses. I'll...

I wanted to close the circle on this topic... at least to my satisfaction. :) I finally got the Lishen cells and finished all the top balancing and capacity testing. I returned to do this test and check efficiencies. Theory - That small Inverters might handle smaller loads more efficiently...

I rigged my test like Will did in his video and I had an AC variable speed control that I could dial-in to get the 54 amps between the battery and the Inverter. I don't image everyone just happens to have one of those lying around. I only did the two runs above, but they were only 0.7%...

As I understand it, the test should be at 0.2C => 54.4 amps. My results were based on 0.2C. But thanks... it's good to know, that it might be that high running at the lower loads. I expect my normal usage will be less than 15 amps.

Thank you. This is consistent with what I "thought" goes on. That one is "storing" versus adding cycles... just make common sense that long term life would get better. Still it bothers me that a company would state you need to bring your batteries inside in 59F.

You're a tougher man than I. Used to be a snow skier. Now, I don't go outside for pleasure below about 40F. Sailing... it has to be in the 70'sF. I was leaning toward, the company trying to have an exit strategy for warranties. I also thought of EV's parked outside, but I just assume they...

As I mentioned, this is for my curiosity AND for another forum. Of which there are many on that forum who live in New York, Michigan, Wisconsin, Colorado, Canada, Norway, Sweden, etc. So... yes, there is "someone" who lives in below 0C for months. Either way, I'm looking for the why's. White...

I have the Lishen cells, but someone on the other forum asked me about it. They're predominantly AGM battery guys. They just love to hear special things like you have to keep your batteries warm at 59F. Especially, since they contacted the company and the response was the typical marketing...

I've skimmed through this thread, but its mainly about actually keeping the battery warm. I'm more interested in the why? And specifically... I'm wondering about storage. I'm on another boat forum and I share some of what I learn from this forum with them. Someone over there posted the...

Some incredible abilities in that thread I mentioned above about monitoring weather sites and adjusting accordingly. I figured most of it can be done with a simple ESP8266 board for a couple of bucks and some long winter nights of programming. I haven't had time to look at the Overkill...

Some good ideas. I think I understand the benefit of using battery parameters. I guess my thought was if they go out of balance, since they'll not be in the range of the BMS's balancing act. But... surely, they won't go that far out of balance in four months. Also, way down on my list of...

Oh! Didn't think of that. I have not actually tried adjusting them. For years it'll be in my yard, but later it might be in a slip or stored on the hard at a boat yard. The main power usage is a fan to keep the air circulated inside and Arduino type devices to communicate via WiFi. I would...

I have a Lishen 272 Ah battery using a Overkill Solar BMS. This will be going into a boat. During the boating season, it will be used more heavily. My question is for the off-season. Say for four months, it will be sitting idle. It will likely have a small fan and maybe some electronics...

I'm real new at this myself, but I'm having no problems with the Lishen 272 Ah cells. Here's my ongoing top-balance and capacity test. One thing I see, your leads are terribly small. On mine, the six BMS leads are AWG8. I'm not sure what two going to my capacity tester and Inverter but they...

I am not an expert in the field, but would consider Nordkyn to be. He says 30 minutes is sufficient and anything more is degrading the batteries. This is also consistent with of most Lithium based thinking in that cycling from 10-90 or even 20-80% SOC and keeping out of the upper knee as much...

I think I agree with you on the differences being unreasonable. It seems when most people show their results on this forum, they're touting differences down in the thousandths of a volt. However... I followed the instructions from Nordkyn design especially the excerpt: Don’t waste time...

I've finished charging the batteries back up. I charged them till the Overkill Solar BMS shut off at its default values. That value is 3.65V. Unfortunately, again... I was not present at the shut off. After resting for some indeterminate time, the battery is at 14.1 V with the cells at the...

I completely agree! As I'd like to put them in a case with the cells, it is proving difficult to bend (6) 12" #8 wires to my will. ;) It came down to... my Inverter came with the next biggest wires already pre-crimped and everything else I need will be AWG12. Instead of buying a hydraulic...

(Continued) If Inertia is an accurate corollary, then current (100kA available in the battery) can't accelerate up beyond what the BMS supplies (120 amps) to reach the short. So we never reach even the 150A fuse limit (class-T or not). For the scenario of needing a class-T, does this imply a...

Got it! :ROFLMAO: Us AE/ME types can wrap our head around inertia. The Wikipedia article on "Breaking Capacity" was pretty thin, but added one tid-bit to my understanding - DC is worse than AC since AC at-least passes through zero volts occasionally. Perfectly logical. Can anyone recommend...

Please understand, I'm not arguing... just trying to get a handle on this issue. Based on the premise so far, lead-acid (even AGM) just aren't strong enough to be an issue and thus the car Audio hard-core are fine with the ANL fuses. As soon as you go to Lithium, it makes it sound like EVERY...

Mechanical - I agree completely, that I don't want to mechanically stress the post. I was actually taking that into account with the Mini ANL fuses. Any torque/bending imparted by the massive Inverter cables would just snap the fuse. I'd have to make sure they are well tied down leading to the...

I opted for Overkill Solar to put those on (option on their order form) since I don't have something big enough to crimp something that big. I also opted for the 8 gauge wires. I want it to run as cool as possible. You'll have to email Overkill Solar. They're very responsive.