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Buy two new efficient top load freezers with the capacity you need is probably the best answer. Trying to build solar/battery/inverter to power inefficient old appliances is usually never the best path.

Trying to be cheap. I use SmartWool fireproof material good to 2100F. They make a paper and a board style - I use the paper between cells and the board style under the cells. https://www.amazon.com/Lynn-Manufacturing-Temperature-Superwool-Furnaces/dp/B077VRS14X

This will run fine off a 3000W inverter if a soft-start is installed. Look up MicroAir and you likely need the EasyStart 364. The challenge will be to wire it into that MiniSplit as maybe not directions for that model. The guys at MicroAir offer excellent support and likely can help. I'm...

Hold off on a CerboGX right now as the next gen model that fixes a bunch of issues is about to release. The 2.90 beta firmware contains support for it. Also a new 7" display is coming.

I'd test that thing. If it's anywhere like their solar breakers it is junk.

The issue is these reducing ferrules limit amp capacity to the size of the ferrule reduced side. If it's a long run you likely get lower resistance using the bigger wire and the ferrule versus a smaller gauge the size of the reduced side of the ferrule. But for a short run likely not worth it.

Interesting that 3.0V to 2.5V is ~10% capacity in your case. My experience with the 280's is that 3.0V to 2.5V is under 2% of capacity. I wonder if Docan has cells with "weak knees" that explains the much lower price point?

Move to the Victron large image and use node-red to control one of the relays to turn off that load based on the SOC (available in Node-Red)

You can get elements but the better way is to use something like this setup. A small electric hot water tank so the dump load heats the tank and then that tank would feed into your gas unit. I did find that you can get this small hot water tank setup he used in the 120VAC version from Home Depot.

BlueSea has them; with the BlueSea premium price. But at least you know they are not counterfeits....

The problem with the OEM alternators is the rating is somewhat fictitious. For example yea it can do the 140A it is rated at redline after the vehicle has sat overnight in a cold environment. But as soon as up to engine bay temps the OEM models need pretty significant derating; as well as for...

The REC ABMS manual has a good description on the canbus setup with the Venus device and specifically the Cerebo. Follow that and let us know if you run into any issues. It covers the required DVCC settings and canbus settings. I've never seen this part be too difficult to get running.

Sounds like it's under control no pun intended ;)

A mechanical relay or contactor will only be good for a limited amount of cycles; and that # goes down the higher the load it's switching. So a couple things: 1) Make sure you are not overly frequently cycling the relay -- some cheap control systems will do this. I had a heat controller that...

https://www.sterling-power-usa.com/library/B2B120%20sheet.pdf The 120A and 180A are just starting to ship, the 60A has been out for awhile. Give them a call to order. I've not seen the 120A/180A listed with any of the online resellers yet. Supposedly high current 12/24 units coming as well.

I've got twin alternators, total 440A. A 190A primary and a 250A secondary. I use a Sterling BB12180 180A B2B charger which is an excellent product. Prior to this I used the Sterling 60A model which also worked well. This charges a 1120A LiFePO4 bank.

Change your living patterns to get more out of the solar. - Shower when lots of sun to heat the water; cold showers when no sun - AC at night if you need it to sleep but try to live with only fan during the day - Better insulation in the living area so you need less cooling/heating - Look...

Cement board is good; just make sure to wear proper gear when cutting and working with it. It's not great for you. Many don't know this. The other option is fireproof paint over wood which I see used a lot in boats; and probably a good choice for the RV installs. Certainly never over carpet...

The problem is a MPPT controller can fluctuate quite a bit to still extract max power from the array. I will see voltage swing 20% as it sorts out the best power potential; so just going off Vpv could cause some wrong conclusions. In my system: 1) I turn on my dump loads when SOC > 93% and...

I was afraid this is what they were. I've used these and they are nowhere near capable of the advertised current. They are not pure copper but some kind of "red metal" and will start to have issues >100A and be glowing orange by 300A. There is another vendor of similar looking bus bars out of...

Nice, where did you source those bus bars?

If you have some way to track incoming "grid" power then that would be one way - can you get access to your consumption? I know some European counties have internet facing services that allow this in realtime. That way it becomes some simple automations to manage this. I'd look into Home...

Wow shame on the OP. This was a blatant Karen/Kyle move to discredit a well respected vendor on here to cause financial harm. Good on you Dexter for setting the story straight. When it's time for me to order my 48V rack mount batteries for an upcoming project you'll get my order.

The diagram looks good. And you do need to program these to split phase as you point out. Their is a wizard to do it now as well on the iOS app to make it easier. Also note these units will only draw 120V/25A each from shore power. To get above that it will use PowerAssist to supplement that...

4 gauge to the Multiplus is undersized. Likely should be 1/0 but read the Victron manual as they will have lenght/gauge called out. Follow it. The Lynx Shunt has a ANL fuse holder which will work but the AIC rating needs to be your concern. Buy good fuses and not no-name shit on Amazon -- it...

Go bigger then you need or run multiple at once. You tend to add panels over time and having the wire in place for that is a real benefit.

Buying stuff too early without a full plan in place - which means knowing the exact physical space and having a layout to know what will fit, or won't. It meant I bought some things I never used: - Lynx Shunt (Too big) - Lynx Distribution (Too big) - REC BMS Pre-charge (Built my own) - 160W...

Question - why the disconnect before the class-T? I've always been "fuse closest to battery terminal" thinking but you obviously did differently.

Thanks, please let me know if you get more balance current capacity in your setup.

Your blockmons are not correct; you only need one per parallel cell group. In your setup each pair of two will get the same voltage reading. I am not sure if it will work to double your balance current capacity in this setup or not.

Consider a contactor a "wear" item. They are only good for so many cycles when under load. You can extend this life with pre-charges and such but it is still a mechanical device in the middle of your system that can fail so if not required why is it there? I would trust the BMS to manage the...

Ask yourself what is the BMV-712 role to play in the overall system and is it the best device for that role? You maybe surprised as I suspect it is just a capacity meter and therefore the entire contactor is pointless; as any battery faults will be handled by the BMS in the batteries before the...

You want something certified by both manufactures if possible. If not you will suffer issues with firmware updates breaking support. For example not too long ago Batrium support with Victron was broken and took awhile to get resolved.

I do marine systems like this for a living. I would take your 64 cells and organize them into 2 * 24V batteries with 8s4p topology. Then parallel these, with appropriate fusing, to feed your "house" bus. I urge you to not use FET based BMS's for this. Use a BMS that can control external...

Fuses/breakers for each battery? If one battery/BMS has an issue you don't want them all ties together without any fuses. MRBF fuses would work, but 4 breakers might be better as you can also use them as an isolation switch.