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Thanks for responses. I figured it must work that way, I just didn't see it called out clearly.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I'm trying to size a system and want to understand how power is supplied by the solark 15k. If I have 200a of grid power available and I've wired the solarc between my main meter feed and my 200a service panel, it it safe to assume the solark is able to use...

You can buy the eaton branded version of those MRBF terminal fuse blocks for a fraction of the blue sea price. It's the same thing, just doesn't include the rubber hood (but you can buy it separate). At least for the singles, not sure about the doubles...

Thanks. Is there a way to place 2 sets of CT's at multiple points and have the solark "add them up"? The 400a meter box feeds the 200a boxes in different directions.

I'm considering a home solar setup. I've got 400a service feeding into 2x200a panels. I think I can get all my "normal" loads into one of the 200a panels and was hoping to feed that panel through a solarc 15k. The only things remaining on the other 200a panel would be 3x25a circuits that are...

That’s a low flowing well and it’s very easy to fry a well pump if they run dry. For any well that has a pump that can pump more water than the well produces, a pump saver device should be installed. They constantly monitor the electrical load and immediately shuts down the pump when it senses...

The Victron multiplus inverters have a built in transfer switch and they work really well. That’s an expensive path if you are happy with your current setup, but something to consider if you have other reasons to upgrade the inverter.

Sorry, I missed this post. I have not idea how Z brackets work, but the panel is pretty heavy and I'd make sure it's mounted to solid structure. For anyone looking to attach a panel this size direct to the roof of a van/rv/trailer, I'd recommend some significant backing structure to attach to...

The center support is just some scrap expanded PVC material glued together and then some soft rubber trim on top (probably wasn't needed). Panel is holding up great, pushing near 400 watts at times.

I think this is probably the most likely outcome from timing mismatch on the shut down. When I realized what was happening with my system last week, I just checked voltages and felt everything was close enough to bring it back up (they varied by maybe ~.02 volts). That said, once I did bring...

I agree it's similar, but 2 key differences - I don't ever expect to see a overvoltage condition unless something has gone wrong. An shutoff at the very top of the charge cycle is usually very short since the cells well settle pretty quick once the charge current is removed. This is very...

I've got 4 of the jbd 12v BMS's (bought from overkill solar). They have been up and running in my camper van since last May with 4 272AH lishen batteries in parallel. The batteries have been performing well so far. Last week, we had a cold spell here in TX where it was under freezing for...

I'm in central TX. I'm not really in the market for any more cells, but might be interested in buying 1 or 2 cells for backups if you are looking to break them up and are close by.

Sorry, I totally missed this post/question. I'm sure you already have it figured out, but your voltage differential will grow wider and wider as you hit either end the capacity. I can't remember what % capacity it would start to grow, but I think around 2.7v and below is where I'd start seeing...

You can make make the case to fuse almost every component and every wire at both ends if you think about every possible mode of failure. There are things you absolutely should do, things you absolutely shouldn't do, and a bunch of opinions and judgement calls in between. Also, remember that...

No, just the terminal fuses. Debated using a class T, but there is very little going on between the battery and lynx distributer (which is where a class T would make the most sense). If something went wrong on that stretch, I've got the mrbf terminal fuses and also the battery BMS short...

Did you precharge your capacitors? It sounds like your bms is sensing a short circuit and shutting down. Could actually be a short, but more likely the current inrush to the inverter to charge the capacitors is setting it off. .It will reset itself after a certain amount of time, but will...

Pic below of my steel framed boxes with compression. Lishen 272 cells with overkill bms's. HDPE strips as hold downs on the tops, black hex plywood with phenolic resin coating for the panels. All the compression is basically with captive nuts and grub screws. Materials are pretty cheap, but...

If you don't have the smart shunt or BMV right next to the battery switch, I think you are on the right track taking the voltage off the output side of the switch. It's going to be the most accurate reference point.

Good question and something I debated. I ended up just taking system voltage from the smart shunt and not using the voltage sense from the multi. The smart shunt is right there at the battery switch, so there was really no place further upstream to take voltage for the entire battery bank. I...

Not just limiting current across multiple devices, but other logic across devices. For example, it's able to shift charge source priority. For example, you might want to only charge via solar based on SOC or time of day, but then charge from grid also if SOC drops too low. I've read up a...

Agreed. It's somewhat obvious that the orion doesn't integrate with anything (except the app via bluetooth), but people tend to assume that high end components should have integration capability (particularly when most of their other components do). I went with Orion chargers because most of...

I think the OP is all good on his original concerns, but just to clarify a couple things with the victron chargers: A cerbo device (or other GX device) can manage/sync charging activities and limit cumulative charge amps across supported devices. Oddly enough, the orion charger is not a...

I like the idea of 2 multi’s. Besides the right sizing aspect, you also get some system redundancy. If one goes out of service, you can make due with the remaining unit, including the painful wait for needed repair if you need to send it off.

I find it interesting that SOK's specifications are so much more conservative than the BMS configurations. On one hand, I applaud them for being conservative in their advertising. You usually see the opposite with vendors overstating their capabilities. On the other hand, they aren't doing...

That makes sense. My BMS's are rated at 120a continuous and they heat up in a hurry once you approach 100a. Everything I've read about FET-based BMS's is that running them hot greatly increases the chance of failure. I try to make sure they never go beyond 60a or so continuous and they seem...

I know I've run my multi at about the same watts continuous without it complaining. I also don't remember seeing low voltage like that, so I assume the high amps and low volts is why the multi is barking. I can't remember ever seeing voltage drop below 13v on my system even when running it...

I think it was in the old multiplus manual. Mine isn’t the new model.

Correct, but he does have a good video on how to enable the led’s on the lynx distributor without using the lynx shunt. They go red if you blow a fuse. All you need is a $5 voltage converter, simple hack. Not terribly useful functionality, but I hated having all those wasted electronics not...

I thought the Victron manual said ground should be as big as load, but it’s been a while since I installed mine. I just did a single 2/0 for ground, it would have been tough to manage 2 cables. I understand the logic of sizing ground the same in some worst case situations, but the primary role...

My lynx setup connects a MPII w/SCC, 2 Orions, and the DC load center. It's a bit of a compromise and you need to size wires and fusing carefully when doubling up on single fuses. The wire used to each orion was big enough to work with the 100a fuse that covers the combined circuit. The scc...

I put in a pre-charge on my system. I've got 4 120a (continuous) BMS's, but my my understanding is that the capacitor charge inflow is way, way beyond that. I can't remember the numbers when I researched it, but I think it was thousands of amps (maybe 10's of thousands?), but just for a split...

Yep, sometimes it's nice to not use a touch screen for everything. One other thing to keep in mind - once you connect the physical controller, you can no longer control the multi through the cerbo/GX screen. It's one or the other. So, that also means you also lose the ability to control the...

One of the standard main pages on the cerbo/gx display allows quick and easy adjustment of input power and also allows you to turn to inverter on and off. There is really no need for the separate controller unless you like the physical switch and knob.

That's OK if there is no drain on the system and it's truly idle, but not ideal if the batteries are cycling periodically. If you never "top off" the cells, they don't spend much time in the range where cell balancing happens. Again, it's probably not going to create any big issues repeatedly...