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Use a battery monitor/shunt that can trigger an alarm at low voltage. Set the alarm voltage above the BMS cutoff voltage.

Today we made a lot of progress on the bison mount. Steel frame bent to shape, and lumbar and cervical vertabrae fitted. Front legs next.

I am using a raspberryPi running Venus OS. I don't remember anything about a serial number, but it has been a few years. https://vrm.victronenergy.com/register

So, the retail per kWh cost of electricity goes down but the total cost on your bill goes up?

One of mine did too.

I volunteer at a science museum. We are working with a company that casts and mounts all manner of prehistoric fossils. Our next exibit is fossil mammals found in Louisiana.

Put a disconnect near the charge controller. Make the transition there.

West Marine has it in stock in their stores, if you have one nearby and need it now-ish.

We still have a way to go with mounting our prehistoric Bison, but it is upright and starting to look like something.

I think you guys are overthinking this.

The manufacturer recommends stacking them for more capacity.

I stacked 2 bars to get enough mass for 300 amps. edit to add, Blue Sea and BEP make link bars and joiner bars that are a little more substantial than battery bus bars, and are made precisely for what you want to do. Here's a link. https://shop.pkys.com/Link-Bars_c_699.html

In an earlier iteration of my setup I used battery bus bars to make some connections. I was waiting on more parts. The bars on the disconnect were doubled, and I checked often for heating and voltage drop. No issues noted.

6:05am, boiling water and running a heater. Inverter can do 2400 watts continuous so this is at top of capacity, similar to the OP.

In order to get decent life out of lead acid batteries, you only want to use approximately 50% of their capacity. Refrigerators don't run constantly, so amp draw when running is fairly useless when trying to determine total power draw. But that company also lists total watt hour draw per 24...

Which charge controller? They don't all work the same way. I have a Victron 100/20 with a load output. The load output is battery voltage (so it needs a battery) and the amp rating is the same as the charge rating, so 20 amps max.

I guess you are looking at these? https://uniqueappliances.com/en-us/collections/refrigerators-freezers-solar-dc Figure out what model you want, then read the specifications to determine approximately how much power it will draw. Then it is a simple math problem to see if your batteries and...

Have you considered a transfer switch at the main breaker panel that allows you to energize a few circuits? like this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Reliance-306LRK-6-Circuit-Transfer-Switch-Kit-P2/50436688

There is a private foundation in New Orleans that works to put solar panels/batteries on community buildings like grocery stores and churches to power them after storms, and to give people a place to meet, charge devices and stay in touch. I imagine groups like this could apply for this program...

Use the BMV relay port to trigger the remote on/off of the charger.

Use the 712 to disable the chargers below your set temperature. Battery protect not needed for this. Use the battery protect to cut off small loads when the battery drops below a certain voltage.

The battery protect is to prevent over discharge of the battery by small loads ... not designed for what you want to do.

Maybe you will qualify for one of these grants?

56 volt, 5ah battery. 56 X 5 = 280 Wh. A 204 Wh Bluetti could not charge one battery fully.

More like 200 watts. I ignore the DC watts becasue in this case they are imaginary.

7:45 this morning. Bright, clear sky but sun still behind the trees. A small heater and a few minor loads running.

I've had no issues, but I've only done up to 2/0. You don't need a bigger hammer, you just need to hit it more than once. The tone changes when you go far enough.

Cloudy and cool so no big loads running. but charging OK. I'll try to remember to do a screen cap next time we run a heavy load.

Typically if you exceed a limit the inverter shuts down. Some reset when the overload dissipates and some have to be manually reset. I don't know Growatt, is it addressed in the manual?

I have not heard of a decent inverter that reduces voltage when overloaded.

I mean, if we are designing a system to solve this problem, it would have the ability to do exactly that, no? I said IF. :unsure: Stop thinking about what existing systems can do.

Well, imagine since I said, "IF you could somehow connect all of the BMSs together so they talk to each other and work as one," that means they would actually work as a single BMS.

Exactly. The BMSs are the issue. IF you could somehow connect all of the BMSs together so they talk to each other and work as one, this wouldn't be an issue. Lead acid batteries in series (no BMSs) aren't a problem.

It does seem something is wrong. I have a 24v Multiplus 3000VA and it is less efficient when running near its upper limits but I haven't done an efficiency calculation because it seems normal to me. It takes energy to run the cooling fan, but certainly not that much. By the way, your...

Can you clarify where the shunt is installed? Maybe a simple line drawing? or even some photos?