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That sure looks like a SRNE solar product, quite common. Look for SRNE utilities at the app store.....

I would suggest not doing that, if you want to charge individually to 3.5 or so that is fine, but not in a group of 3. 1 group will most certainly go out of balance and overcharge causing damage. Remember you have no protection in place while doing this.

Royer is indeed quite pricey....Will likes LiTime .... https://ca.litime.com/products/litime-12v-230ah-plus-lifepo4-battery-built-in-200a-bms-max-2944wh-energy https://ca.litime.com/products/litime-12v-100ah-tm-lifepo4-battery-low-temp-protection-for-trolling-motors...

I'm having the same issue with a 50ah Renogy battery. It appears in my case the BMS was not balancing at all, it was tested by interrupting a BMS lead and connecting an ammeter. I put a load (light bulb cuz I had it) on the remaining cells to force a voltage drop, no current flowed through the...

Your old idle draw is interesting...my 2000w Renogy idles at 10.3 watts, measured with quality meters. Are you using the same equipment to measure your 30% improvement in solar since changing to Victron?

Does your inverter have a power saving or seek mode? If so try it with that option turned off.

These guys have one... https://ionicelectronics.ca/inverters-chargers-solar-charge-controllers-mppt-hybrid-solar-inverter/inverter-charger-mppt-solar-charge-controller-combo-unit

What is your battery arrangement and type. It is possible you are hitting a BMS disconnect due to imbalance. How was the little breeze and rain last night?

Fords have a relay that disconnects the trailer charge wire when the engine is off, it is in the engine compartment fuse box passenger side. Your battery won't discharge. I pulled the fuse on mine, don't miss the 5 or so amps charging at all....

You are using solar panel voltage instead of battery voltage in your calculation....

Genasun is the only boost controller I know of.... http://www.solarmarinesupply.com/genasun/gv-boost-105-350w-solar-boost-charge-controller-with-mppt-for-lithium-batteries

Are you prechaging the inverters?

The controller is made by SRNE Solar, get their app, SRNE utilities, use the caps in the search...

The Renogy controller is made for them by SRNE, they also make controllers for Midnite and others.... They are a quality product

Get the "Renogy BT" app or the SRNE "Solar app"for your phone-you will be able to set the controller to "User" making parameters much easier to set... https://diysolarforum.com/threads/renogy-dc-home-app-vs-renogy-bt-app-comparisons-and-which-to-use-for-your-charge-controller.38604/

Does the battery need charging? What is it's state of charge or voltage? The charge parameters may be different between the 2 controllers. When testing you should have a load applied that is a little greater than your expected charging capability.

They are possibly Posidriv or JIS standard screws, standard Phillips don't fit so good.....and the impacts mentioned above work very well-ask any motorcycle enthusiast.

They do make them....but as mentioned 3000w is a little steep for 12v..... https://ionicelectronics.ca/inverters-chargers-solar-charge-controllers-mppt-hybrid-solar-inverter/inverter-charger-mppt-solar-charge-controller-combo-unit

Yes, that is the correct way to read the 10a scale on your meter. The meter needs to be put in series, nor parallel to the circuit.

You may wish to check your multimeter documentation on using the 10a scale-your leads are not connected correctly.

You don't see the fuse between "A" and "B" in the Community link? It is a Mega fuse-you blew it when the switch was first turned on. Easy to find at your local auto parts or marine store.

It appears you originally attached your power feed across the fuse posts.... https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/22590/multiplus-compact-242000-battery-connections-confu.html

Good eye, rmaddy..... Jkdoc7, Your fuse is surely blown as well....

Seeing that the loads at the fuse panel will mitigate some of the current going to the batteries I see no issue with your proposal. As mentioned it is probably #6 feeding the panel, so some drop may occur-depending on the size of the array. Mock it up and measure, that's the only way to be sure.

The first thing you need to check is why your ground wire (green) got hot enough to melt the insulation-that should not happen. Was it connected to the ground lug? Also check how far the damage went-you may want to cut back your shore cord or replace a few wires. Yes you can connect your...

Have done that on 6 RV's-works well and is simple. On some trailers the wire run from dist box to batteries is undersize or poorly done-you may get more than acceptable voltage drop. Just connect the controller to an empty DC fuse slot and put in an appropriate fuse....

You don't need more wires, but you may have to re-configure the ones you have. Is the new controller common negative? What is the model number?

You should not be trying to power your inverter through the "load" port of a solar controller, they have a low current capability. Also search for topics on "pre charge".

If it is the SRNE made Renogy remove 4 screws from the back side and the front lifts off, there are fuses inside.

Take a look here....... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/475860367261873/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post He has a warehouse in Van. as well.

I feel the controller is being asked to work outside it's input voltage. The easy way to test would be to put your batteries in series at 24v and give it a try. That would put the controller back in its comfort range with respect to the panel voltage. Don't try any of your loads at 24v though.....

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/21731.pdf

Most manufacturers recommend 2/0 for 2000w 12v inverters. I would suggest not using that type of breaker in the inverter circuit, no matter who makes it. https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/references/cabletable12vdc These breakers have arc supression and are rated as switches, a little harder to...

Had the same issue, Renogy was prompt and offered a discount on a replacement controller but no parts. I checked with SRNE as well, same answer. Bought a bluetooth dongle-works fine......

How many amps? Carling C series is good for 80vdc and front panel mount ... https://www.carlingtech.com/hm-cb-c-series Easier to find the Blue seas version but for some reason it's rated 65vdc https://www.bluesea.com/products/7269/C-Series_White_Toggle_Circuit_Breaker_-_Double_Pole_200_Amp And...