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I'm confused as to what time settings you mean for the grid?

I have heard of them warrantying them if they have a specific amount of degradation in a specific time frame/miles driven. But I don't remember. I want to say 20% degradation before the warranty runs out, which for my specific Model 3 is 8 years or 120,000 miles, for the battery warranty.

I watched this the other day, and it gave me good hope that these will probably last longer than advertised.

The BMS might have the Charging mosfets turned on, but the discharge mosfets off. In this case, it will accept a charge, but will show low or no voltage when tested with a DMM. Does your App show the status of the Mosfets?

I am having troubles finding this as well. I do not have an inverter icon under the equipment tab.

Ah yes, using the term "battery" in place of "cell" caused me to assume they were assembled packs you were trying to parallel.

I would not use 18AWG, as they will not support the current! Use proper gauged wires when paralleling batteries. I should have been more clear here: I assume if you paralleled them with 18AWG, the wires would melt/burn fairly quickly while the batteries attempt to pass 150a through them.

Andy at Off-Grid-Garage on YouTube did a test with paralleling low SOC with high SOC, and the result was very uneventful. I have paralleled 10% SOC 48v 280ah batteries with 100% SOC of the same, and it peaked at like 150a or something. Nothing that could do damage. The voltage differential even...

I think all that is necessary is they must be running the same firmware version. Maybe someone else can confirm?

You don't need a tiktok to watch it. It's not much different from YouTube.

Seems unnecessary for something that once its running, you would rarely look at. I don't think the screen on my SolArk has turned on in weeks lol.

120F is seriously cool for the inverter. It won't start thermal throttling until (I think) 192*ish (90*C). I wouldn't worry about it

SolarAssistant does not read the AC temp of the SolArk, and there is no DC temp probe in the inverter like there is in the 5k/8k/and 12k. Discussing this with @robby, we can only assume that the value that SolarAssistant is showing is a resistor soldered to the board to give a value that won't...

Here in Central Commiefornia, it was only about 40% coverage, but a gradual decline and incline of PV. Moving on...

I see little reason to need more than 600v, even for a long run PV Array. 600v is downright terrifying lol.

I recently sold off extra panels that I got with a shipment. They were some used SanTan 250w panels, and I actually sold them for more than I paid, including the shipping and all. What was weird is I posted them on Facebook Marketplace, and I got 10 hit in the first 30 min, and had one guy at my...

It probably was once like that, but an updated fixed it, and they never updated the website. Its just out of date.

It's not right. Mine is connected to the Canbus/BMS port and it changes settings just fine.

Im with @Ampster, im pretty sure once the grid goes down, the values are ignored and it will allow 100%. The inverter is always trying to guarantee the load terminals are always energized.

It is 200a continously output. The EG4 is the same 200a. 51.2v X 200a = roughly 10kW

I don't see the purpose either. Its a step in the right direction for sure, but it is not more efficient. The guy says 40% more efficient and thats a load of :poop:. My other concern is more than 1 unit. I know a lot of RV's out there only have 1 AC unit, if they are 25'ish and smaller, but a...

Only so many ways to skin a cat. They don't look very similar to me though. Different sizes, different screen shape and location, different features from what I can tell. They just both have rolled edges on the front.

THIS. I can't count on both hands and feet how many times people ask if they can put their 4000 sq/ft home on solar/battery for pennies. It's one of the main reason I won't do work for friends/family anymore (like I'm sure a lot of people here have already learned). But ill give them advice on...

I've had my 280ah cells on their sides for over 2 years now without problems, leaking, or severe damage/degradation. If it does happen though, I will post it on the forums. The weight of the 7 cells on top of the last 8th (bottom) cells is kind of irrelevant. As @hwy17 Said. In my Seplos case...

Yes, they would have to break the welds from the uprights to the roof line on mine. I was able to get some pics of when they were building mine. I wanted to run bolts all the way through and put nuts on the inside, but I also opted for the insulation package and full vinyl walls inside. I...

Yes but WHICH inverter?

Totally not surprised. And outright ridiculous.

I plan for the roof to come off the trailer before the solar panels go anywhere lol

As much as I like livestreams, they tend to get a little long as well.

I actually drilled them out and used 3/8" Grade 8 hardware. Only because I had a huge box of 3/8" Spring Nuts for the Unistrut.

These are the ones I used: https://a.co/d/eE67UZZ I also just sent it with a 3/8" impact, my guess would be somewhere around 40-60ft/lbs. Probably way tighter than they were supposed to be lol, but no bending.

Didn't get very much more info than we already have. But its a start, atleast its something.

I may be wrong because I haven't done enough research. But I think; UL9540A is the standalone cert. UL9540 is the cert to be paired with a specific Inverter. I'm curious to find out what they pair it with.

Very little positive feedback, with only 1 sold. Also mentions cold temp in the description, but doesn't specifically state cold temp protection. this might not matter to a lot of people though, like it doesn't matter for me

I work at a laser cutting shop, and did exactly what you want, but in my enclosed trailer, so its constantly bouncing around and wanting to rip off the wall. I mounted a 200ah 48v Battery (Over 200lbs!) and a Deye 8k inverter on the wall to a 12ga 304 Stainless Steel Sheet. I documented it on my...