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With the breaker.

Correct. I tested charger on a number of other GFCI outlets and determined I had two that were bad.

Work was crazy the last month but I have finally been able to get back to this project. I went back through everything to double checked connections, created a floating DC system, triple checked charger, and everything looked good. This lead me to taking a harder look at the GFCI's which is...

I already tried disconnecting the clouded ground connection below and it still tripped. With that said, it may still grounded at the 7-pin connector but I will need to check.

Almost positive 110 but will need to double check.

I tried the shore power connection to both GFCI and non-GFCI at the house. In either case the trailer GFCI outlet trips. Yes, batteries were hooked up to charger. If I disconnect batteries from charger trailer GFCI does not trip. Progressive Dynamics 45 amp lithium charger (PD9145ALV)...

Very good question...the items I tried were non-grounded. With that said, I was able to look at this a little more today and tested the following: 1. With the charger disconnected I tested all AC outlets in the trailer with a outlet tester and all test good. I also ran a drill with grounded...

Correct...invertor is not connected to AC side in any way, just trailer battery. The GFCI outlet in the RV is the only thing tripping. If I disconnect the charger I can run other items (heat gun, etc) off this same outlet and it does not pop. The charger is the only thing causing a problem.

I just mean that the charger is plugged into an existing 20 amp AC circuit and not hard wired. I do not have a AC diagram but this is a very small/basic trailer and the AC side is still factory. @HRTKD has it correct... House Breaker Panel -> GFCI outlet - > RV shore power chord - RV breaker...

That is my plan if this is just due to a sensitive GFCI outlet. Just want to be sure I have not made a mistake somewhere else.

The following is the system. Still questioning if the DC bus should go to chassis? The shore power to the charger is the charger plugged into an outlet on the 20 amp GFCI circuit (AC). fyi...the charger is 45 amp (30 amp listed below is outdated). Also the DC - DC is not wired in yet so not...

I am using a Giandel 2200 watt pure sine wave invertor but its output is not tied into the AC side. I only have some basic tech needs that I just plug directly into the invertor. Your comment has me wondering if I made a grounding mistake. The stock battery negative was grounded to the chassis...

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I just completed an upgrade to a lithium battery on my travel trailer. As part of the upgrade I abandoned the original charger that was part of the WFCO 8735 power center and replaced with a Progressive Dynamics 45 amp lithium charger. Everything worked great when I powered the new charger...

It's not shown in the above but I do have a battery monitor from SOK I ended up getting for free. I'm sure it's more basic than the Victron but for free will see how it goes for now. Good point on the DC-DC...probably will wait and see for now. My main concern is boondocking in the southeast...

I did but decided against due to the low voltage limit of that unit. It was close and I probably could have made that charger work but did not want to wire panels in parallel.

I do not intend to wire the invertor output AC into the WFCO panel at this time. My microwave plug will be inches from the invertor so I will just physically unplug from the AC outlet and into the invertor when boondocking. Beyond that the only AC appliances remaining is the air conditioner...

I am a new member planning my first system and have been pouring through this site which I find to be incredibly helpful. I have a small travel trailer that I want to upgrade to Lithium batteries and solar for boondocking. The existing power center is a 30 amp WFCO 8735 which, based on research...