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I’ll give that a shot thanks!!

That’s good to hear! Thanks for the help!

Thanks! It is a 12v system. I dont have a large battery, (BB OWL 170AH) but also dont have a large draw. But I also havent started boondocking much yet and want to make sure i have as much capability as possible. Thanks! I think I'm going to go with the 3s2p format.

Michael, I think that makes a lot of sense. These are mounted flat on an RV roof, so i don't foresee ever being in perfect world scenario with these panels. I had it hooked up 2s2p for a few months and think the highest I ever saw was about 220 watts at 10 amps. If I go with three in series I...

Ok thanks!

Max input voltage is 100 watts.

So I don’t have an inverter charger. so that diagram makes sense except the ATS has no earth ground out. Only L/N for inverter, shore power and output.

I have the Renogy 400 watt solar kit and am pretty sure it can handle a few more panels than the four it came with. Can someone make sure I’m not missing something? 40 Amp Renogy MPPT Max solar input - 530 watts / 50 amps Panels VoC -21.6 Lmp- 5.72 amps 2s3p would be 43.2 volts and 17.16 amps...

The ATS does not have any input or output for Earth ground and does no switching of the neutral or earth, since the earth ground is not included. I think the correct answer is tie the shore power earth ground and output wire earth ground together. Small ground loop but its either that or not...

Did you wire a small bus bar to clip the breaker in? Also ive seen little plug in adapters that have a "built-in" breaker, but none that seem legit or UL listed. Anyone know if these have been tested anywhere...

Yes I know to fuse/breaker to the wire size, hence the 15 amp for the 14/2 romex. I know the stranded wire/braided in rv conversation but this wire is all contained in the same compartment as the shore power plug and ac distribution which is all 10/2 and 14/2 romex. None of it is routed...

I would need to check but am pretty sure the 3-prong plug outlet is breaker'ed internally to 15 amps but this is mounted in a not very accessible location (under a bed) and it feels a little janky to have a cut extension cord. I would prefer to have the 14/2 to a breaker and then an outlet in a...

The inverter is a 2000W Renogy. The wired output supports up to 30 amps but since i'm using 14/2 and only one outlet I definitely need it breaker'ed to 15 amps. I am not trying to build out a breaker box due to size and seems unnecessary. The links you put on i saw on amazon but the push...

So I’ve decided against wiring my inverter into my rv’s AC distribution panel due to a few different reasons. I’m going to run 14/2 Romex from the inverter to a single outlet co located to my inverter remote switch. This way if im Boondocking and need AC I can turn on the inverter and plug in...

No I just put the hot wire to the converter into the same port of the ATS with shore power. I put a 15 breaker on the line since it was skipping the breaker on the AC distribution panel. This way regardless of what the ATS is doing, if shore power is present it’s charging the battery.

I have the converter wired out of the ATS directly at shore power to prevent inverter loop. I sort of came to the same conclusion that wiring the shore power and output ground together would be the best. Thanks for the help!

I just re-watched wills video on it and he just wired all the grounds together. But when an output is to an AC Distribution panel, that will create a ground loop because at the end of the output line, it’s grounded as well.

Actually that’s the exact one I have. I either read mine wrong or am just dumb. So I still need to know how to handle the two grounds from shore power and output from ATS. Shore power ground to common grounding bar makes sense. But the output line I can’t figure out.

The manual states the inverter does not handle neutral ground bond.

I’m installing a MOES ATS (same one as Will always uses). It has L/N for the two power inputs and output which handles neutral bonding. I’m not sure how to handle the grounds. Shore power ground to the ground bar on DC distribution panel. But then the output from ATS power would have a ground...

I have the same one. It does have a breaker. I didn’t even think about but that’s probably not a bad way to go. Generally when I’m camping I’ll have the battery on, I’m more just worried now if I accidentally leave the camper plugged in and the battery is off.

Not as much worried about the light, but want to ensure if this happens the battery’s BMS is still active and not overcharging the battery or bypassing some other limit.

Yes when not charging and power off there is no illumination or voltage displayed whatsoever. BB said this, which is less than helpful haha. I asked it was harmful to charge when not turned on. “ I dont think it would be harmful, per say, however youre not going to know exactly where the voltage...

I mean off as in the power button is not pressed. Nothing is illuminated and the voltage doesn’t show until the power is turned on. When the camper is plugged into shore power the charger is running and the voltage meter illuminates with the voltage that is being applied to it. I just want to...

Should these batteries voltage meter and power button illuminate when being charged and the power button is off? I’m worried the BMS is not activated while this is happening and could damage the battery.

Hmm nothing?

I just set up the Renogy 400 watt solar system with a Big Battery OWL Battery in my travel trailer and everything is working great. I have the battery wired to the DC circuit breaker board exactly as the original battery did. Now this means the current AC-DC charger is trying to charge the...

Ok. Then from the bus bars you have the discharge wires to either an inverter or whatever you are powering?

Ok, maybe stupid question here. I just bought a Big Battery 12v 170aH OWL battery. I’m installing it with a Renogy 400 watt Solar kit. How do you run wires to charge and discharge? It has the Anderson connecter that will be connected to the MPPT, but there are no other connections. I’m assuming...

So found a pretty good article on a similar forum here and think I have a decent grasp of the concept. https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/50083/ From reading the listing put together on the link you provided about certain inverters, it’s sounds like the lv2424 bonds ground to...

Ok I think I am following. I’ve been scrubbing through here and noticed you bring up ground bond neutral on almost every RV solar post. So I would assume someone has accomplished a straightforward fix for this issue and I would also assume you know it since it seems to be the main thing you’re...

Thanks for that. Forgive my ignorance, Im a fairly handy guy and been a helicopter mechanic for 15 years, but this is Chinese to me about grounding. I understand the basic grounding principles of electricity but does this mean I need to do anything different than ground to the vehicle chassis?

The inverter will be wired to the AC distribution panel of the RV. So that all of the electricity will work as normal. I do not plan on usin the AC or microwave via only solar unless I get a large enough battery bank eventually. I have not come across or read about anything involving bond...

Yea I know the BMS can and will. I was just under the impression that allowing it to happen is not ideal for the batteries.

Ok, I’ll look into the ground issue then. As for the 12 vdc that makes perfect sense. I was planning a 24 volt system just for the simplicity of expansion and lower amps so lower huge wires throughout. if I go with the 24v>converter> 12 v distribution panel would I need some sort of low...