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I am just following this up to say that the new epever Bluetooth mini adapters do in fact work with the old Tracer-A series charge controllers and epever Solar Guardian app. (Configure the app as "Tracer-AN (10A-40A)" ) Not officially supported on the app description, but I can confirm it works!

Posted this in the general forum but didn't get much for replies: Hi there, I have an Epever Tracer A.... Not "AN", but "A". It's old but works and I don't want to replace it. (Apparently the only difference between the A and AN is that internally the A has a pos ground. Whatever.) For remote...

Got your message... Thanks anyway but ya I already have the WiFi one and it won't work remotely.

I have the wifi one so I can program it with that no problem... When I am beside it. It's just that one has fixed IPs so it's not able to be accessed remotely. I've tried and tried. No joy.

Hi there, I have an Epever Tracer A.... Not "AN", but "A". It's old but works and I don't want to replace it. (Apparently the only difference between the A and AN is that internally the A has a pos ground. Whatever.) For remote monitoring purposes, the easiest way for me is to use an old cell...

My Tracer 4210A series (not AN) doesn't work with the wifi box. So I blew money there too. FFS, you get what you pay for with epever. Like, wtf can't the old blue ebox work on lan without an 11.x IP. Simple right? Nope you need a new black wifi box... So I get that and you need to fuck around...

Did anyone get this working on their LAN with a different IP or what can I do to make it accessible with the app over lan? I think the app is harcoded to the 11.11.11.x up address. I bought the new black box and it doesn't work with my tracer 4210A (not AN) series.

In the end I ordered from Shenzhen Basen. Just had to wait longer but the batteries were perfect.

I've read a lot of @Steve_S posts on battery charging parameters, and reviewed the SoC charts etc. but something isn't clear to me. He says the working voltages that represent 95% of the batteries capacity is between 3.0v and 3.4v Should I take this to mean that I set my charging parameters up...

Does anyone know if the 4210A and 4210AN series have the same firmware? I have the "A" version and only difference I can find is pos ground vs neg ground. Are the firmwares the same and can I flash the the new AN version on mine?

Yes exactly. The proposed solution back in post 54 (https://diysolarforum.com/threads/my-jk-and-my-meat.36199/post-455804) was to run a jumper lead from the batt to the SCC to keep it alive in case the BMS dies. I was just trying to figure out how much time there would be there before it harmed...

All good and thanks for your reply. My question wasn't really to do with wanting longer run-time, it was more a question of how to plan if the battery ever runs out, no matter the starting capacity. But as I just mentioned above - it seems my assumptions are correct and I'll just test the...

No, nothing to do with Temperature - no need for low temp cutoff in Thailand! My battery had went into LV protection and shutoff discharge. Therefore the SCC couldn't see the battery anymore and shutdown. So when the sun came out the next day it wouldn't charge. Solution is to, ideally, cutoff...

Also @timselectric because you chimed in at the time :) Going back a bit here but I am preparing for my winter away back in Thailand. I have no need to replace my inverter as it works fine, and the relay system I hooked up in a rush is hokey. To recap - I want to keep my SCC alive if the BMS...

Oh I agree! I calculated the cycle life to last me 77 years for my use case - I am 47 so... Not concerned. LoL I've just seen so many people talk about maximizing their cycle life and think it's over the top sometimes so wanted to have some stats to put things into perspective.

Can someone help me find what I am looking for? Eg. my 280ah eve cells are rated at 6000 cycles for 80% dod But what is the expected cycle life at 50%, 90%, 95%, 100% dod? I am having trouble finding the right graphs or charts or tables. My googling game must be off as I think this should be...

I was careful and thought of those things before going ahead with it. It's a stationary install. Nothing is moving. And I have yet to feel any significant heat through daily use. Good advice... Just not a concern for my situation.

Hey there! Sorry for not updating. Yes... And no. I ended up just adding a 24v automotive relay instead of the solid state one and was able to turn the inverter on and off with the Victron. I was packing up my house to leave for the rainy season and come back to Canada. Unfortunately, something...

Basically this thing by "Fotek": https://tinyurl.com/yc9fxhr6 But I bought it on the local Amazon equivalent called Lazada. Same part number SSR-40DD but the output is 5-220v not 110, otherwise it looks exactly like this. same markings etc

Ok actually, I put a small 24v load on it... here's what happened: 1. I had my bench power set at 26v. I turned it down to 22v which initiates undervoltage at the BP. 2. bp.out dropped to 22v until the undervoltage kicked in, at which point it dropped to a voltage rapidly fluctuating between...

Thanks @smoothJoey I have hooked up my friends other Victron and see the same results. ie. When undervoltage is detected and it "disconnects", the voltage hovers between 1.5v and 2.8v. Whenever it hits the higher end the SSR engages since it's rated input is between 3v-32v. So this is useless to...

Victron says to contact my distributor. They don't offer tech support. My friend bought it on Amazon so I don't have the distributor info. I'll try the other one my friend has and see if it does the same and I'll ask him for the Amazon seller info

I wonder if the "dumb" BP works differently than the smart one. I would like to know if there's any measurable voltage on the Out when it's undervoltage. My friend here has another "dumb" BP I am going to connect to see if it's the unit that's faulty or not.

No controlling it directly didn't work for the same reason. The BP doesn't "switch" the connection/load on and off. It just reduces the voltage, so there is a still a path... My remote switch for inverter is either on or off, so if that line doesn't go completely dead, it still registers as on...

I am so exasperated with this setup. FFS Victron. The stupid Battery Protect doesn't actually go to 0v/disconnect when it's undervoltage. There is still a 2.5v potential on the BP output during undervoltage. So my relay, which operates at a 3v minimum, flickers on and off and causes the inverter...

They are just leads that come from the BMS. You can put them wherever you want to take the temp from. I just stuck them in the middle of the pack free hanging. Others stick them to the pack with tape.

If the discharge is enabled, no manual intervention needed. ie if I disable and re-enable discharge it comes back on. In the absence of discharge being enabled (like under LVD), the SCC stays on as long as there is PV power. If there isn't it shuts off. I can jump it to start with a 24v source...

It does not appear that that matters. In the battery parameter settings of the SCC I had already specifically put it as 24v from the drop down. So it is "hard coded" in that sense. There was no autosense option in the drop down.

Yes the SCC shuts off as soon as I remove its Batt +, even if there is PV input. No it does not recover when I reconnect it unless I give it 24v (or 12v I assume).

Awesome thank you. Voltage between inv switch + and - is the battery voltage, ie 26v

I appreciate your help. I have the manual. Have read it back and forth. It (and many sites) say you don't need a seperate relay if you have a remote port on your inverter. You only need a seperate relay if you are trying to hardwire it into the actual on/off switch of the inverter. But there is...

I 100% do not. My setup: Batt Neg goes to BMS. Common port (P-) of BMS goes to shunt, then to negative system bus. Batt Pos goes to System Pos bus. I don't understand why it WOULD show voltage. Wouldn't it have to at least allow a minimal current to do that? And thereby contradicting a...

Totally. And I am down for that... I just can't figure out, even with all the diagrams available, HOW to wire the BP to the Remote jack on my inverter. If someone can explain that to me I am good to go. 1. The remote jack has a Yellow Pos lead and a Red Neg lead. ie. if it put a meter across...

If I turn off Discharge there is nothing on the bus. There's no voltage to "detect" at all. I just tested with my meter. I disable Discharge, and everything shuts off. The meter shows 0 volts. Also I don't feel it's off topic as if it stayed on I wouldn't have lost my meat! :)

Not sure if you saw that @upnorthandpersonal as we responded at the same time. It's an EPEVER Tracer 4210A. Not the most expensive unit but I wouldn't call it "super crappy". :) Yes exactly. If the SCC is off, and I put a source on it's battery output, it turns on. If there's solar it starts...