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I disagree. Although they might not be suitable for outboard engines with smaller less sophisticated alternators. But for inboard engines or RV's etc. they should be fine. Many people are already using non-starter rated drop-ins connected to engine alternators without problems. Only they aren't...

That you see voltage bounce around between 14-18 volts is concerning. That actually sounds like the battery had already gone into protection. If the battery had not gone into protection, then the voltage would not fluctuate, but would sit at the voltage of the battery. In protection, the battery...

There are endless answers as to what can be done politically or by regulation. But you, personally, there is one thing that stands out far and above any other. Don't have kids. Over the next 50 years, there isn't anything you can do that is worse for the environment than having kids. If you have...

They are mostly likely just fine as starter batteries. If you also use them for "house" loads, maybe/maybe not. The first consideration is that many new "dumb" alternators do have a temperature sensor, which solves one of the biggest issues. Second, as a start battery, it is always full...

The Lithium with BMS is actually safer for powering devices that must always be on like bilge pumps. If the LFP battery is run down, the BMS turns of and your bilge pump stops working. That isn't good. But if the Lead Acid battery runs down to such a low voltage that the pump won't run, you...

I have not every heard of a boat needing to be signed off by an ABYC inspector. I'm not sure such an inspector even exists. Most insurance policies require a survey within 3 years to start a new policy, but a Marine Surveyor doesn't normally hold any ABYC certifications. Rather, (in the United...

Before E-13 was released the discussions I read were using examples like an electric powered boat that suddenly lost propulsion in tight quarters and that could cause a collision. It really isn't much different than lead acid. An overcurrent situation blows a fuse. Voltage drops below 11V and...

To truly alarm before the BMS disconnects requires a BMS that has that feature, and that will always only be on the more expensive BMS units. Prices will come down, but the cheap ones will never have that feature. There just isn't much demand for it as a it is a niche within a niche. I don't...

ABYC does not require such an alarm. You could have nothing and still be ABYC compliant. ABYC does has a recommendation for one, but without any specifics. As, such, any alarm you install that you are happy with will work.

Yes, I know that, but when you order a 120A BMS from a cheaper source, maybe you really get the 80A and never know unless you remove the heatsink. That is my point. For a few extra dollars, I know I am getting what I really ordered.

200% might seem like a lot. But it's $50 on top of a battery bank that may cost thousands. And the risk is real. I bought "the same" JBD BMS from Amazon as a test unit for another project. When I removed the heat sinks only half the FETS were populated on the board. It would easily pass as the...

I think you are wrong in assuming it will be low cost. That is the main thing. The smart shunt is a very limited device. It doesn't even have the relay the more expensive display has. You are talking about a hardware change that probably involves a more powerful microprocessor, a larger...

What brand batteries, and do you have a way to see the individual cell voltages? If you disconnect the 4 batteries, are they all charged to exactly the same voltage? If the cells are out of balance, with one or two cells charged over 3.5V, and the other 2 cells below 3.5V, then a small change...

It's a relay. With both N/O and N/C connections. In my other post, I said that you can connect the battery to the common terminal, and it will provide a voltage. But it is just a relay. You can connect it to the Y cable (you will need the pinouts and signal descriptions of the wires) and it...

Just looked up the EC-AGS+. See page 13 of the manual, it supports a remote start/stop switch. Connect that to the relay on the BMV-712. https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/2021-05/A065F574_I2_202106.pdf

But they must also have other controls, a remote start, a generator disable, etc. For sure, the Onan generators I have seen absolutely did have those features. Start digging into the manual.

So there is no way to manually start the generator except by opening the panel on the side of the RV? There is no control panel inside with a remote start button? Similarly no way to disable the generator so it won't start if you don't want it to? That doesn't make any sense. As I said, the...

Then use 2 resistors to make a voltage divider. I'm not that familiar with many generators, but don't most have a remote start connection that will start the generator on a contact closure? I think you are over estimating the difficulty in adding the feature to the smart shunt. It is obviously...

Yes, it exists, more or less. The Victron BMV-712 (which is similar to the smart shunt but has a display) also has a relay output which can be set to trigger on SOC. If you need a voltage, just connect the battery + to the relay common. Then connect the N/C output to the generator. When the SOC...

Do you know what those 2 switches do operationally? One of them will probably select from battery 1,2, or both. But sometimes people do weird things, so that isn't a sure thing. To connect your solar, you would connect it to the common terminal of the battery selector switch. In a clean...

True. Either use "tefgel" or plastic washers to insulate the differing metals. Tefgel works great, I use it everywhere. I have lots of stainless bolts in aluminum parts, and even after years they come apart easily with the tefgel still coating it. Where tefgel isn't used, drilling the bolts out...

If you are referring to the hangers that are a round clamp with a long bolt, then I would think they would be fine. Similar to what I posted which is a more purpose part for stainless tubing.

These are rigid panels? They already have frames, and I would utilize those before adding more weight and complexity. They don't need to be supported at all four corners. If you get a bracket at 2 corners, and then 2 more brackets 2/3rds of the way along the sides that would be enough. If you...

Inspected and tested before shipping, and with a decent warranty. You can get the "same" BMS from other sources, but there are multiple versions that are very similar, and if you order from Alixxx and don't get what you expect or it fails you are SOL. Even being inflated, Overkill solar isn't...

ABYC is not requiring communication. ABYC doesn't require a whole lot of what many rumors say it does. Whether or not is is a good idea is a different question and depends on the boat and the rest of the system.

Kilovault was preferred by many for a long time before Epoch came out and is also a good choice.

You should look at some that have Bluetooth communications so you can monitor cell voltage and balance. That rules out everything you listed, including the Battleborn. Epoch is currently the preferred battery by many. It has bluetooth, and also is available with CANBUS to communicate with an...

Disagree if you like. If you think an LFP system without being a hybrid would cause your drip coffee maker to not work, you did something wrong. There are far more pure LFP systems than hybrid. And people need their coffee. It just isn't a common complaint. I have lived aboard full time with...

That is ridiculous. A BMS will shut down when there is a problem. In a well designed system, it should never happen. My system is 4 years old. I have had one shutdown when I had to leave the boat for 3 weeks and it rained the whole time so my solar didn't work. Just as it should have. No drama...

Thousands of boats have LFP installed without using a hybrid system. No problems. The hybrid LFP battery is snake oil, like the $15 dollar doodad that doubles your gas mileage on your car. The salesman makes it sound great, but it does nothing. The data sheets I have seen use voltage. Granted I...

Ugg. Don't bother with the Bank Manager or similar hybrid systems. They are nonsense; a solution looking for a problem. On a high level, one approach is to connect all your charge sources to one battery, then use a DCDC to charge the other. So, you could connect both alternators and the solar...

I doubt an overvoltage of a couple volts would cause an issue. But a bad connection that causes a voltage drop as current increases certainly would. I think a bad connection is the likely problem.

Perhaps there is a bad connection somewhere or cold solder joint on the 2.1mm connector. If there is a bad connection, you would measure 12V at the 2.1mm plug, but if you plug it into a device, it won't actually provide a full 12V. Because it seems fine when not plugged in, it can be difficult...

I am even more confused than before. I thought we were talking about a Tablet PC. Now an ereader? And the picture of the charger you posted was not USB, but you are able to charger via the USB on your laptop? This stuff is not interchangeable, I reiterate my previous request, we need to know...

There was a misunderstanding early on about the application. With a UBS connector using PD, it would charge faster the more convoluted route. In your case, it will be the same.