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I can say from experience, that the Chinese/Amazon/Ali Expr. knockoffs costing around $10,00-$20,00 are a waste of your money. If you run more than 40-50 amps through those cheap switches, then they easily heat up to 90 degrees C/194F. (measured with Flir) And if you measure the voltage drop...

Via Alibaba I eventually got in contact with EVE via e-mail. The contactperson, actually 2, both had a @evebattery.com e-mail address. Maybe there is an “official’ EVE reseller on Alibaba too, but then you still have the possibility to contact EVE directly via their website.

On the same Alibaba website, the company EVE is active. You can contact them directly with your questions via the Alibaba messenger. EVE wrote me once that they sell their cells with an Excel sheet included, showing the testresult per cell on serialnumer/QR code level. For smaller customes it's...

UPDATE: I've changed the picture in the first topic message, into an original and recent screenshot of my app. Here you can see that it's not concerning the "Designed Capacity", but the "Total battery Capacity". And indeed, you need to set this value manually, this is not done, or calculated...

@MisterSandals Indeed, the Designed Capacity is the hard value of the cell pack, and therefore it should not be changable by the BMS. Changing this value manually is possible when needed, but it could not be that this value changes by it self. The screenshot I've used in the start post is taken...

You got a point there… I might do the second app/opinion test then, to see what this brings. In the mean time I’ve tried to contact JDB about this issue, but unfortunately the don’t reply. Could this changing of the set Designed Capacity value be a bug then, or does the BMS it self calculate...

The "Designed Capacity" is a value you need to set manually, because the BMS can not know this. That is why I don't expect the BMS to correct this value after some charge/discharge actions... I can think of the actual- and the reasonable capacity, but this doesn't seem to be the case here... And...

That is why you see under the picture: (Example picture for the yellow capacity part, not the real situation) At this moment I have no access to the batterypack/BMS, so I used a example picture for the explanation.

I own a Jiabaida (JBD) 4S 200A BMS which is connected to a 300Ah LFP battery pack. (Cells are brand new automotive grade, from Ganfeng.) In the BMS app, I made the settings and set the "Designed Capacity" to 300000mAh. After a short time of usage, I saw in the BMS app settings that the...

If the flat earth society would release a correct type of balloon, with a GoPro below it, they could establish with their own controlled hardware that the earth is round.

The market of LifePO4 cells is overloaded and chaotic at the moment, so there is a chance that some 'cowboys' in the battery market want to use this situation for their own profit. Al lot of Chinese middle men presenting their self as manufacturer or EVE preferred supplier, only selling A...

Nope, I just got this picture, but I actually thought the same; would the QR code still be readable. Thinking simple this should be the case, otherwise the complete QR code should be useless then.

Like this:

Normaly your alternator should have a D+ contact. You need to connect a wire on to this contact, and connect it on to the D+ of the DC-DC.

Like @pierre wrote: the line is thin between DIY and drop-in nowadays. But, there is still a big gap between the quality in both cases. Will Prowse recently showed and tested some cheap LiFePO4 drop-ins, and he alsways opens them, to see what cells and BMS is used. In some cases the cells were B...

The Multiplus is more like an intelligent DC-AC inverter, when it also runs on a battery, making from 24VDC a true sinus 120VAC. So when the shore voltage would drop, or current would not be enough, the Multiplus compensates this via the battery power. I see the Multiplus with battery connected...

The basic formula for currents tells: I (amps) = U (volt) / R (resistance) So the higher your (cable) resistance is, the lower the current will be. Thin wires have a bigger cable resistance then thick wires, when looking to the bigger currents. Like the bottle-neck effect. A lot of water needs...

Aluminum has about 60% of the conductivity that copper has. That is why you should always use thicker wires with aluminum to conduct the same current as with copper wires. Keep this in mind. So if by calculation you need a 4 AWG copper cable then in aluminum this is maybe 2 AWG for the same...

Hi Rod8s, Take in mind that most RV used electronics are 12V based, and therefore do not need 230V. You could add 12V powered USB outlets in the RV, for all your smartphones, camera's, ect. The fridge most probably can do 12V, gas, or 230V. So in off-grid situation, the 230V option 'can' be...

Maybe an often used Cyrix relay in between the alternator and the RV battery, to prevent overloading. And ground fault circuit breakers on the mains input and output of the Multiplus, for extra safety.

Maybe have a look at this option from Victron, it does all you want. More brands make such all in one solutions, but I thought to start with a reliable brand.

Assuming that you‘ve exactly considered your purchase, and this became the depicted setup, I find it a bit weird that for the build up you seem to take a lean backwards position, and ask forum members to arrange the rest. At least, you don’t give any more extra information about what you tried...

Yes, the Dokio foldable panels can directly be connected on to the battery with the aligator clips. Just be sure that the included solar panel charge controller is correctly set to the battery specs. First connect the battery with the aligator clips, and then connect the solar panel on to the...

I don’t think this will give any problems. Most probably you’re solar panels have diodes inside to prevent charge currents to go in the wrong way. Most people with a foldable solar panel connect the wires directly on to the battery with aligator clips. Do check the solar controller from the...

Over here in The Netherlands we don't pay for road infrastructure construction and maintenance via the gas pump. We pay road tax. The amounth of road tax you pay depents on the weight of the car you drive, and the fuel it's using. The more weight your car has, the more you pay. And when you're...

Hi fhorst, If you connect the P- and the main [+] on to the coil of an external contactor or power relay, then the BMS still is the safety relay, but with higher load capacity. When the BMS is triggered by it’s safety settings like under/over voltage, or temperature, it switches down, and so...

This is more or less the same as a normal and small BMS connected on to an external contactor or power relay, like I explained before. With this kind of power regulating equipement, on which you should be able to rely on, I personally would choose some higher quality. Why don't you take an...

Personally I think that with LiFePO4 batteries (and actually any battery type) your dealing with certain physics concerning size v.s. capacity. You can find differend sizes in between the different brands, but in basic you can't make any 270AH LiFePO4 cell 50% smaller without cutting in...

Good to know Mike! (y) It's a bit confusing to read at point [4] of the Victron Battery Protect manual, how to connect an inverter on to the Battery Protect, concerning the capacitor sparks, and then your message from Victron that an inverter 'may not' be connected on to a Battery Connect...

As far as I know, and read in the manual, it's no problem to connect a Victron Battery Protect in between the main [+] of the battery. In basics the Victron Battery Protect is designed to be connected in between the battery and the load, and the load can be anything. (For example: see the manual...

160 amps times 12 volt is 1920 Watt, and that's not an exteme load to say. Ok, it's above average in a camper/RV, but let's say you have a small oven, or an airco which always runs for a longer time, together with some other tings. Then it might be good to have engough power on board. In this...

More simple is to connect an external contactor or power relay which can handle the amps you need towards your inverter. For example, with an 200A contactor or relay your inverter can pull 12Vx200A=2400Watt out of the battery. Connect the contactor or relay switch-coil contacts on to the P- of...

When pulling and charging high amps, cell balance can be mandatory, although this should n’t be a to big issue when your cells are matched, top-balanced, and in good condition. But in this case an active cell balancer with higher correction currents is often used to cover this issue. Good...

In case of budget concerns you could then use a simple little BMS, and connect an external contactor or power relay on to the P- of the BMS and the main [+] of the battery. The contactor or power relay switch contact is connected directly on to the main [+] of the battery. When the internal BMS...

When you want to pull >200 amps via an average (and non-Daly) BMS with BT and PC connection this is limited by the internal contactor. Most BMS systems are limited at around 120-150 amps. In this case you would better use a external contactor or power relais of 200-500 amps, and connect this on...