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Are you taking your main positive and main negative from your battery bank to the inverter from the same battery? That will definitely cause battery imbalance. They should be wired per the attached drawing.

Won't it just be in bulk charging mode until it hits the CV value and then drop back to the float setting? I'd like to spend some time at the CV setting , an absorption phase, so the cells can balance.

So then it sounds like there is no accomodation for an absorption phase. What do you think about setting the equalization settings to act like an absorption phase?

Haven't hooked it up yet. I'm planning now and was going through settings and found no accomodation for an absorption phase.

It's possible I missed it, but I'm not seeing any setting in the 6000XP FLA settings for an absorption phase. How are people coping with that? I've had a thought about using the equalization settings to synthesize an absorption phase. This is for a DIY LiFoPo4 battery with no comms. I want to...

Love to hear some feedback on what you learned and how you ended up with this.

Like many here, I used 1" EPS foam board. I believe it goes by "Foamular" at Home Depot.

Not related to this system, but I'd love to see you do some more testing and demos on solar panels. What is the 'real' gain people can expect to get from bi-facial panels in various configurations, including on an RV roof? Where are the best places to buy solar panels now that prices are in free...

Just a quick follow-up to this post I wrote little over 2 years ago. I'm now on my third winter using the system exactly as described above. It's worked perfectly! I've had no reason to modify it or make any changes. All I do at the end of the heating season is flip the switch off and remove my...

Trying to achieve proper force with just a threaded connection is very complex, which means unless you have serious math ninja, you are really just guessing. Springs are so simple and they don't have to be expensive. I used these. I measured their K values to be ~165#/inch. less than $5 each...

My Trimetric has been in service for 15 trouble free years. Seems like a rookie compared to your 30 years though. ?

I built a compression fixture and fastened that to the floor of my RV under the bed.

Can you do grid passthrough for 120V in (just L1 connected, and not an L2) to charge the battery bank when connected to shore power, and have the other leg of 240V run off of the battery?

Morningstar has a 600V MPPT as well.

I agree! I'm a Morningstar fan and have used their MPPT charge controllers for years. I did communicate with them several months ago about being able to do split phase and they indicated they were looking to offer it in the future, but it was likely years out and therefore off my list for...

One other downside of the Morningstar is that you can't connect two of them to get a split phase output.

Your pack will "grow" about 3mm at full charge from that level. Make sure your springs can accommodate the growth without exceeding their Maximum Safe Travel, or even getting bound up. Make sure your overall fixture compression pressure is still within specs then as well. I adjusted mine at a...

If you want to add a couple more springs, these are cheap and easy to get. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/melling/melling-valve-spring/mel0/vs360?q=Melling+VS-360&pos=0 I measured their K values at 165 lb per inch. Alternatively, I would go ahead and crank yours up to 180 lb if you want...

I didn't make my final adjustments until after my cells were completely balanced and my bank was at a full charge. After that, the material I put between the cells compressed the tiny bit so I did have one readjustment to make. It also seems to me that in your current configuration, 167 lb per...

Here is a quiet one that does 2,500 watts. https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/suresine/

Did you ever solve this problem?

No issues other than having to hook up to it with a cable. Old school but reliable as can be. :cool:

I used these. I measured their K values to be ~165#/inch. $3.29 each. Easy to get. NOTE: That was for an 8 cell pack. You might need something different if you use more cells in a single compression fixture...

On Edit- Never mind, I went and reread the specs and there is a 20 Amp limit on the solar input. It's not clear to me that there is a 20 Amp limit on the input. I thought it was 1,000 Watts max for the solar input, without regards to Amps, as long as you stayed within the voltage limits.

This is what I did to get around the 100 Amp limit. Works well for me.

What is connected to the left hand battery's negative terminal and right hand battery's positive terminal? According to your sketch, there is no connectivity from your batteries to the busbars without something connected to those terminals.

Curious why you want to go to 24V? Most, if departing from 12V, go straight to 48V. It is potentially cheaper to do so. If you are seriously contemplating upgrading to lithium batteries, you might want to go straight to 48V with something like this...

Two things. 1- You still haven't answered the question about which converted you're using. If you want us to help you figure out what's going on, you need to give us some basic information here. As an example, if you're using a 30 amp converter, it will take six or more hours to get from 10...

Part of what I get from compressing my EVE 230s is constraining them from movement in my RV when it is bouncing down the road...

I've had my MS MPPT-45 for about 10+ years now. For the first 9, it charged a 2S2P GC-2 bank. I've been charging a 12V 460AH LiFePo4 bank for the last 18 months. It has been flawless the entire time.

With a similar capacity DIY LFP battery buildable for 10% - 15% of their price, I likely won't be in the market for one.

If you were pulling that kind of a load without one cell contributing, it is probably at a higher state of charge than the rest. You might want to rebalance the pack, or at least take that one cell and bring it down to parity with the rest of them.

An AC-AC SSR Solid State Relay will NOT work. A DC-DC model is required since everything being switched, as well as the input, is low voltage DC.

My Morningstar charge controller has been flawless for 10 years. I swapped my bank to LFP about a year and a half ago, made some parameter adjustments, and it continues to serve perfectly.