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Add me to the list of people with only good things to say about them.

No, not fan noise. More of a toroidal transformer hum. When not charging it has been essentially silent.

In an RV, not a boat, but our unit is under the master bed. For us, it had been "noisy" when it seemed like it was in float charging mode forever. Changed the settings so it wouldn't sit there at night trying to constantly charge. Problem solved. In an RV, all the inverting ends as you shut...

Interesting question. Hopefully someone has a simple solution....

I used thin strips of wood as spacers so it would be centered on the copper. Also helped stabilize the copper so it stayed flat against the table.

May be overkill, but I bought steel drill guides. Not as cheap as wood, they have held up well on the drill press. Similar to this; Drill Guide - McMaster-Carr

@cinergi His video saved a cell for me! Stripped Terminal Repair Had to watch it several times to make sure I had the correct sized bits, etc., but it was really easy since I already had a good drill press and grinders to flatten the end of the bits.

They are both large, too. So, if you're trying to fit into that box, straight up bus bars may be a lot easier.

That's basically the purpose of the Lynx Power In. It's a pretty and convenient bus bar system. Less expensive than the Distributor because it doesn't include the fuse workings.

You don't say which version you have, but if it is the REC Active, @BretS may be able to help, as he is one of the few that seems to have figured these out.

See KenB's image. "E" to the chassis/ground.

Appreciate it and will definitely reach out. Probably won't make it to the top of my list until late November or early December.

Yeah, that's why I went with the Overkills when I just ran out of time and had to get temporary batteries ready to go. Overkills are plug and play, but don't play as well with Victron, let alone 1120AH of batteries!

Really appreciate this. I'm stuck with my Overkills for the remainder of this season, but will take a closer look at my REC A stash when my new cells go into "Production" after this RV season is over. Will surely come back for advice on how you have yours programmed! So, next time you go into...

Looks like you still need to feed the DC panel. For mine, needed wires from Lynx to DC panel, replacing the feed that used to come from the converter.

As Tecnodave notes, when you remove the old converter you will need to run power from your new lithiums to the DC panel. Where you tie in will depend on what your DC distribution setup looks like at the batteries.

Actually did that thanks for the idea, but decided the surgery was worth the slice since I'll need to run wires to the control panel and having a way to guide them up behind the shower would be easier being able to reach in there.

You scared me enough that I went out there and cut a hole in the trailer bottom. Didn't want to do it, but it answered all my questions for today. Now I just need take a chill pill for a little while. All of the white wires from both the old converter and from the distribution panel run out...

Really don't want to have to keep two systems. 7 Pin will not end up with a power connection going to the trailer. The 7 Pin will no longer feed the trailer with any power.

Is this code supposed to produce an image of some sort?

The one that is supposed to go to the battery. It is circled in yellow, post #3. Comes from the bus bar in the DC panel then disappears into the belly of the beast, never to be seen again.

Yes to both. All systems need to work with the new lithium install.

Yes, has to be road worthy. 7 pin to trailer wiring will be cleaned up and reattached. Just won't be a battery up at the front of the trailer.

With that, if I get continuity between the positive coming from the DC panel and the chassis, can I assume that the white wire that is supposed to go to the battery is in fact just tied to the frame?

Yeah, that's all gone. The were all just tied together with twist ties. None of the white wires in this picture are even close to the 6awg from the DC panel. All were in one monster twist tie with a pigtail, and that pigtail had the frame ground shown in the photo.

Not trying to remove the power center. In fact my goal is to keep it and minimize the number of wires I need to pull to that location. For that location and those wires, the one wire I just don't know where it goes is the white wire (yellow circle in post #3). WFCO manual shows it goes to the...

Here's the area under the bed that will now house the new utilities. There will ultimately be 4 batteries feeding the Lynx power in. Lynx, Shunt, Lynx Distributor. Fairly straightforward on this end...other than my question of how to treat the grounding to the chassis.

Original battery location had only two 6awg wires. The red wire coming from the DC panel lug, and a white wire that ran from the battery negative to the frame. This white wire ran from battery negative to the frame. Red wire ran to the post that's circled, but still hard to see. That post...

Here is the DC panel. Same box/area as AC wiring panel. Orange circle is the Positive Black wire from the original converter. Pink circle is the Red wire that runs up to the original battery. Yellow circle. Can't really see it from this image, but there is a bus bar in back that both of the...

OK, here are some images that should help. Original equipment converter/charger and batteries are gone, so you won't see those. Green circle was Converter case ground wire. It disappears into belly of RV. Orange Circle wires: Black is positive feed to DC panel. White is converter negative...

Going from original batteries and WFCO Converter/Charger to Multiplus II and Lithium batteries. My confusion right now is related to the original grounding/white wires related to the original converter and DC panel. There are two white wires that disappear into the underbelly of the travel...

By the time you're done we'll have to get you one of those shoe holders for your closet to hold them all. :cool:

Saw Will using it in one of his videos where he said he liked it for small wires. I have the regular crimping tool that works much better for everything other than the small BMS wires. At the time, even went back and watched his video to make sure I was using the same cavity as he was. Don't...

Yes, they are expensive. Also liked the heat shrink they used. Seemed to really seal up well even around the crimp. Just FYI, they also shipped really fast.

I had good luck with these from Crimp Supply. 26-24 Ga. Heat-Shrink Ring Terminals, 1/4" Stud 11A28016 and this crimper via Amazon: Channellock 909 9.5-Inch Wire Crimping Tool