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No, you don't have the settings set correctly. User error.

Mine does.

Will's 3k inverter is ~ $700. Weighs about 25 pounds. Sol Ark is ~$7000. Weighs about 200 pounds. So, I don't think it is remotely reasonable to expect anybody is trying to put Sol Ark capabilities into EG4 3k box. Probably not possible.

Measure each with an independent meter. DMM. These devices are not NIST calibrated.

..Or... that's the max the solar panels can produce.

Yes.

This is a math question that requires specs of existing panels, specs of new panels, and specs of the 'inverter'? to which they are going to be attached. Is this a grid tied system? Does this system have batteries?

IRS Form 5695. ...Costs. For purposes of both credits, costs are treated as being paid when the original installation of the item is completed... Completed. Ie commissioned. You can't get a tax credit for a pile of solar stuff you bought this year if you don't hook it up and make it work...

Yes. Using the rs 485 (Bluetooth port) with this converter. https://overkillsolar.com/product/usb-module-for-bms/

Hmm

Everything has been covered above except I would use ¾" marine plywood.

What? The inverter is turning off on low voltage not because it was commanded by some closed loop something something. And Opie thinks he's still at 73%. I'm saying that's not correct. SOC is an overlay to make it easy for people to understand percentages the underlying actual science of physics...

When was the last time you saw 14 volts or better? I think your shunt needs calibrated. 13.09 volts is definitely not 73%

Or Solar Assistant.

With an actual torque wrench? Or just a visual perusal?

Been saying that for about an hour now... Gonna do it or what?

The only voltage drop you need worry about is between the terminal and the bus bar. No current should be flowing through the bolt.

I have 5920 watts of used panels. Last 12 months they've produced 5.8 megawatt hours. My calculations put these at about 88% retained capacity. Especially if you can pick them up locally, I think they're a great deal. I got mine from a local solar installer.

The charge curve is logarithmic at the top and bottom. You DO need to charge above 14v to allow such a low current balancer to have ANY effect, particularly on 3 cells paralleled. With this chemistry, voltage is NOT an indication of SOC. And balancers work on voltage. You can have 2 cells at 3.3...

It's all been done before. It's all been asked before. The answer is exist. I tried to steer you to a guy that has over 300 videos exploring all aspects and charging voltages and current flows and mismatched paralleling in all sorts of stuff in 300 videos on lfp. But you're too busy to accept...

Watch and learn. Whatever dude...

Go watch those videos. This betrays your ignorance of the chemistry. Cell imbalance only exposes itself in the upper part of the knee of the charge curve. Charge curve for this chemistry at the margins is logarithmic.... In a logarithmic area is where you do cell balancing, not in the fat flat...

Right but if you zoom in on sunshines graph, you will notice that at 13.6 volts it required over 5 hours of absorption to get full. So first it required time to charge to the voltage and then it required five more hours to fully saturate the cells at that voltage 13.6. the sun isn't up for that...

I implore you to watch those two Andy at off-grid garage videos. Obviously you have not.

As previously stated, you won't fully charge the battery.

Good video also. Watch the other one first. In this one, if your in a rush, see minute 8 to minute 11.

I'm in the process of playing with this one. https://www.amazon.com/PIKIS-Monitoring-Controller-Overvoltage-Protection/dp/B0BY4Y5BLY?th=1 Andy did a video on it.

Suggest you pick up Solar Assistant so you can observe the behavior with pretty fine granularity. Excellent product. Great value. For me.

Here is the same period as the other graph showing bulk, moving to absorption, and then the dip at the right end is moving into float which only requires 2 or 3 minutes.

True, but typically in a solar charging scenario, you won't have good sun long enough to charge AND absorb at a depressed voltage for 3 or 4 hours.

It depends on whether or not they are charging up through 3.4 volts, or coming back down to 3.4 volts in a float scenario. In the first instance, absolutely they can have different states of charge. Charging typically is an algorithm that has to follow a process.

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Okay, 3.437 is not high enough to give you a reliably 100% charged battery. 3.437 is an unnecessarily high voltage to expose the battery to once it is full. Float setting with lfp keeps the battery fully charged but exposes it to a slightly lower voltage and allows the mppts to cover your loads.

If I just charged a 54 volts the battery will not be full and I will not receive full capacity from the battery