That UPower is a rebranded PowerJack which is notorious for vastly overrated power capacity. The noisy waveform is due to poor filtering and regulation. Overloading is a likely cause of the humming and flat top waveform under load. PowerJack typically overrates power capacity by ~4x but...
In general NEC does not officially specify specific UL standards in the codes. Instead the relevant standards are usually mentioned in the associated informational notes as guidance for the local AHJ's who ultimately decide what's acceptable.
For example...
UL9540 is required. Make sure the battery sticker clearly show the specific UL compliance. There appear to be battery vendors that claim UL compliance but the actual battery systems don't actually have the necessary UL compliance markings to pass inspection.
Is this an off-grid system? If yes, you can probably pick an off-grid inverter and save money. If no (i.e. on-grid), it would be unlikely that you can legally use a DIY battery bank in an on-grid system due to UL compliance requirements.
A small off-grid inverter/charger or a power station with internal relay and AC input on a timer should work. I have tested such setup with a small DIY system. There is no significant financial ROI from the load shifting but a longer backup time (more than long enough to setup and start a...
Can you also show the grid codes setting? The freq-watt (and volt-watt, etc.) curtail curve (including the frequency shift limits and resolution) is dependent on the grid code setting. It could help explain why the AC Coupling SOC limit didn't work as expected.
That seems odd. Perhaps there is another overall (i.e. not just for AC coupled charging) setting for max SOC charging limit?
Slow ramp up is another enhancement (along with others like like freq-watt and voltage/frequency ride-through) in the default 2018 profile based on newer standards. I...
None of the IEEE 1547 2015 profiles support freq-watt. Try the IEEE 1547 default 2018 or one of the CA Rule 21 grid profiles to enable freq-watt. Also, you should contact Enphase to make sure you have a recent firmware version (released within last 3 months) in the iQ8's that has reportedly...
CA Rule 21 profiles can also work but there are many different versions now, so it may take time to find the best for your system. The IEEE 1547 2018 default profile is newer superset. It would be best to get freq-watt working with SOC control for smoother operations. Frankly, with the...
This is likely a cause of the problems you have encountered. That profile does not support proportional freq-watt curtailment. The graph in https://diysolarforum.com/threads/building-a-pv-shedding-controller-for-ac-coupled-solar.80666/post-1042422 shows large sudden battery current changes...
Assuming that's all due to peak time consumption then you are probably using ~7kWH (@$0.6/kWh) between 4-9pm. The lowest cost home battery option is probably a single Enphase 5P without backup for under $10K installed ($7K w/tax credit). A single 5P might be able to cut the peak time grid...
Since the OP has 10kW iQ8's, the cheapest home battery solution for backup power usage is likely a single Enphase 5P (~5kWH) and maybe 3T (~3kWH) based system. Other home battery or hybrid inverter systems would require a much larger (~20kWH) battery bank to support reliable and safe off-grid...
How much are you willing spend?
Given that you just want to power fridge and lights (<1kW?) then a modest power station with a couple solar panels and potentially a small generator would still cost way less than any home battery or hybrid inverter system.
It's rare but it does happen. Utilities do it to prevent too much solar power from destabilizing the grid. It can happen more frequently in small grids with high solar penetration (e.g. Hawaii). Utilities have been able to do this since the original UL1741 compliant grid-tied inverters that...
How long is the typical outage?
If you just want to power fridge and lights then a modest power station is likely significantly cheaper than any home battery system that works with your home solar system.
Unless the inverters are designed to be paralleled they are not relevant for the discussion here since their output power cannot be combined/synchronized in a single island grid with the large GTI.
I have the PSU and it works well with 120V or 240V input power. Best efficiency and max power is only available with 240V input. It's important to connect the earth/ground with a thick wire for safety.
No need for ideal diode. The relevant server/telecomm PSU's are designed for paralleling and 24/7 usage with safety protection (UL certified ones). Other components in your DIY system are more likely to fail first.
You can use an inexpensive (<$100 used) high power (3kW) 48V server/telecomm power supply with CAN bus comms for voltage and current limit control. I have used the Huawei R4850 (https://github.com/craigpeacock/Huawei_R4850G2_CAN) but others (e.g. Emerson/Vertiv, etc.) will also work.
The max GTI power is limited by the panel power capacity but there are other factors (e.g. anti-islanding disturbance injection power) that are often based on the max rating of the GTI. Assuming 86kWH battery with no other charging power source, the safe max charging power would be ~40kW...
What is the specs of your battery inverter system? Can your battery inverter handle up to 60kW of GTI power for charging battery? You would also likely need 120kWH of battery in order to accept up to 60kW of charging power for any practical duration. And when the battery is full then you need...
Any microgrid solution would cost way more than 800 pounds. Selling the inverter and buying a proper off-grid inverter with similar power capacity would cost less but likely still way more than 800 pounds.