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Can anyone interpret this? “Type III 105/.0100 Stranding” I’m guessing .0100 strand size. And I’m guessing that’s inches. Maybe 105 strands? Type III isn’t coming up useful in google.

Which is the DLO wire? Sorry, I don’t follow.

I guess only a bit of this is needed? Splice it to the “regular” pv wire at the end of the run so you have the right wire for the controller? Seems odd.

Thanks. I’ll check southwire. I did find this at northern Arizona wind and solar. I think it qualifies. https://www.solar-electric.com/mtw-rated-cable-10-awg-black.html

It’s a pretty solid requirement from the Victron engineers. Do you have a basis for thinking it doesn’t matter?

I called currentconnected. They recommended using their 7 strand wire with the Victron charge controller. Seems unwise given the Victron warning. To wit: In case of thicker strands the contact area will be too small and the resulting high contact resistance will cause severe overheating...

Credit where due. First happy SS story I’ve noticed. Way to go Jess.

Well this is getting frustrating. Does anyone know of a source of 10 awg that meets the Victron standard? I’ve tried my usual go to source, Boatwireusa.com. No luck. Amazon is a dumpster fire. I’d like a quality, preferably American made, source. Thanks Example of suitable cable: class...

It’s a little hard to find a torque screwdriver that goes below 10 inch-lbs.

Heck of a beginner install. And welcome!

When using two grounding rods per the NEC, do they both have to terminate above the grade? And does the connecting conductor have to be above grade? Put another way can I pound the second rod below grade and bury the connecting conductor? The first rod will be installed in the traditional...

No. Looks like a scam to me. No company address. Guido is the ceo. 😂

I’m at the hooking up panels phase and I’ve managed to confuse myself. The 10 gauge wire I’m seeing for use with panels doesn’t appear to be the super fine wire needed for the Victron controller. See below. How are people handling this? Is it 10 gauge outdoor rated solar panel wire to a...

You have my new favorite forum name. 👍

I don’t he a rec. Sorry. Others will be along. But would be interested in your experience regarding the battle born. Thanks

I think you need to understand how many amps are going to be in the wire. Then select a fuse a bit (20%?) above the ampacity of the wire. That way the fuse protects the wire.

I’d be interested hearing more about his as well. I only recall tests where dielectric grease did not increase resistance. It simply keeps oxygen out of the joint thereby preventing oxidation and preserving conductivity.

Just last weekend I was redoing my MPPT wires. The ferrules had smashed and I couldn’t get them out to the Victron. To the point where took a chance on breaking it. I’m off ferrules for that connection.

I recall my battle born ran dead once when I’d forgotten to reconnect the panels. It came back to life on a jump. Something like 15 minutes.

I’m ok with small wings on my crimps. It’s some evidence I crimped hard enough. I file them off. Did not know about ionizing smoke alarms. Thanks! I use simple and non-toxic super lube as a dielectric grease to prevent oxidation. Keeps the oxygen out. Do you think no-ox is better?

I wonder if there is any warranty on the battery capacity? At least in terms of deviation from the median. Some of those batteries were real dogs. Be a shame to get a dud with no recourse.

I wonder if BB would let you open it up and troubleshoot. The shipping both ways is tough medicine.

Bump for op.

I didn’t know there was a tool. Fingernails work as well. One side then the other. Or cut off the MC4 connectors and redo them all with the same brand or with butt connectors.

Welcome. With only 7, covering with taped on cardboard seems easy. At night on a roof has some risks. And fall protection is cheap. $100 (US) harness and rope at the hardware store.

Edit-I thing the guidance is that it is ok to run them to empty, but don’t leave them there. From memory, leaving them empty for 5 days is an issue. Shorter is better.

Other will be along with some good advice. I’m sorry to hear battleborn customer service isn’t a bit more customer friendly. Years ago, they were excellent. I suspect the company is suffering from a more competitive environment.

Thanks. I wonder if that changes considering a thin walled conex? I was thinking of using the cutout to cover the hole. Rivet it on. Edit-I looked at the pic of the u shape midea. I see it will take some source to get through the wall.

I wonder what the min hole size is in a conex wall to mount a “U” unit? The box pic below has the Costco number. The price has come down. It’s just a big, clumsy unit with some drawbacks. Some of the reviews are pretty harsh regarding quality. Maybe I’ll come to love it later. This...

As per the title, I got this air conditioner to keep my batteries and inverter cool. My system is set up in an insulated conex box. The positive. -The unit seems to cool well. I’ve only tried it in the mid 80s so far. I did run it in my house for a year to see if it was a dud. It did fine...

Those were very cool batteries. But if it gets down to -30 C, I cease to function.

@ncsolarelectric will know. Have you paid yet? Personally, I’d require adherence to the terms.

Plain ply with a couple of coats of intumescent paint might be good.

Yep. With the strut, or the Yakima/thule stuff, you may be able to attach the mounts vertically and then the crossbars horizontally. But getting a good connection to fiberglass is sketchy. Bolts are the answer.

Sure. I’ll be out there this weekend.