Search results

The MPPT is a 75/15 from Victron - its mostly the configuration of the portal solar array that governs the 18V 10A config. I've yet to find a portable array that is wired in series instead of parallel. I have considered trying to rewire the portable array, but not clear that can be done...

I am in the process of revamping the solar build on my trailer and as part of that have been looking at adding a few safety improvements. In particular, I installed an SAE solar port through the side of my trailer to support connecting a portable solar panel to augment the panels on my roof...

I think it comes down to the fact that the distribution of cells to bypass diodes in uneven. That aberrant case happened when I shaded 12 of the cells in a string of 24. It does not work out the same as shading all 12 cells in a string of 12. The following diagrams show what I believe to be...

I think the interesting observation is that shade on any part of one panel in the parallel array essentially removed that panel's contribution to the total power. But for serial arrays, the results can be better or worse than parallel depending on whether one is lucky or unlucky with respect to...

So the replacement panel arrived today, and I confirmed that the wiring is correct - 2 bypass diodes across 3 connectors with all connectors wired into the PV array. the setup for the testing went as follows: Two Renogy RNG-100D-SS 100W panels, each with two fully wired bypass diodes 36 PV...

I was looking at the post that Will Prowse did showing the impact of shade on his serial arrays and I think I've realized where the issue lies and why I got apparently different results in my testing. My arrays are tiny - 2 panels. Mr Prowse's arrays were much larger - 10 panels. The short...

Hm - actually, thinking about it more the serial results do not make sense to me now. Serial arrays work with matched current and aggregate voltage. But current is proportional to the number of illuminated cells. So in a panel with multiple strings separated by bypass diodes, when some cells...

I am quite certainty that the panel is wired incorrectly because the other panel, also a Renogy RNG100D-SS, does have a connection on the center connector - see attached pic. Also, it makes no sense to use 2 diodes to create a single bypass - pointless increase in cost/complexity in constructing...

In the arrays constructed here, how are the bypass diodes arranged? In my testing (with a far smaller number of panels) I found that different shade patterns had wildly varying impacts depending on how the shade crossed PV cells that were covered by the same bypass diode. (edit) I was thinking...

I was just looking at extending the PV array on my trailer to use three panels and was considering whether to wire the panels in series or parallel. I had seen all sort of posts making claims both ways - serial is better because it boosts voltage and allows charging under low-light conditions -...

I just finished converting my trailer from lead-acid to lithium/solar/inverter. The original equipment was a 100W solar panel onthe roof, a 10A BlueSolar Lite PWM from Victron Energy in the forward storage compartment and a WFCO WF-8735 for the power center AC/DC converter with the 12V from the...

I tried the DCC30S unit when I was modifying my trailer for lithium as I like the single-unit design for DC-DC and MPPT. I also bought the bluetooth module to provide for bluetooth monitoring/config. While I think the unit physically did what it should, I found the bluetooth app to be a...

I am in the final stages of getting my solar, lithium, inverter setup going for my RV and I am having difficulty finding the products I would need to solve the shore-line/inverter to ATS to AC/DC charger wiring. I cannot be the first person to want to do this and I am hoping that someone here...

In my case (an Apex Nano 194BHS) I know that one of the AC breakers goes to the AC/DC converter because that is how the panel is wired from the factory (its a WFCO WF-8735 power center). That leaves two breakers that service a fridge, microwave, A/C, outlets and a GFCI module somewhere...

Yes, if one puts in an inverter you have to re-wire the AC input the the panel's AC/DC converter such that it runs off the shoreline ahead of the ATS. It is a rather funky space back behind that panel next to the power center, but I think I can build a small platform, move some strung wires to...

Regarding my fridge, it is a Dometic DM2672. According to the product page (https://www.dometic.com/en-ca/ca/products/food-and-beverage/refrigerators/rv-refrigerators/dometic-dm-2672-_-183085#specifications) it draws 2.7A @ 120V, which actually lines up very closely to what I measured. The...

If the Renogy BT app is unsupported (I cannot find anything one way or the other) and the DC Home app is the only choice, this only cements my decision to return the Renogy unit and go with Victron. The DC Home app seems to require some sort of login before one can do anything with it. Given...

@G4-L8 Yes, my calculations are assuming driving during a sunny day, which would be the normal situation for me. Driving under sub-optimal lighting conditions would require that I either allow my battery to supplement the power to the fridge or that I simply forego running the fridge and let...

Renogy DC Home is some sort of "community" app - seems to require a login to a cloud service so I'm not certain how one would use this with a non-internet connected system. For monitoring/controlling the unit in an RV what Renogy directed me to was the Renogy BT app, which is what I am (trying)...

@mkaye Ah, just heard back from the Victron people - the trick is that when the MPPT is not engaged, the PV sees this as an "open circuit" and so the panel's Voc applies (which is generally north of 20V). So as long as the PV's Voc > Vbat+5V, then the MPPT will engage. Also note - MPPT does...

@mkaye I was *not* talking about voltage going to the trailer battery. I was talking about required *input* voltage from the PV to engage the MPPT charging cycle. In the Victron docs, it states "The controller will operate only if the PV voltage exceeds battery voltage (Vbat). PV voltage must...

@IDMT The power center in my trailer is the WF-8735. That replacement module only fits into the 8900 series power centers. My only choice is to replace the entire power panel with a WF-8735LiS or to install a completely separate deck charger unit and disable the AC/DC converter in the power...

@mkaye Regarding charging the TV's battery, yes, that is what the Renogy docs say, but the bluetooth app is terrible and it is impossible to verify what is actually happening. I do know that the trailer's battery did not seem to be charging properly while I was towing this weekend so it should...

@Whinny Multiple reasons I am not running over to the power panel. (1) the inverter would barely have enough juice to power the fridge, let alone the rest of the trailer's systems, (2) requires an ATS and rewiring of the power panel's AC/DC converter to not run off the inverter, (3) running...

@revilo yeah, looks very similar to what I did with my Apex Nano 194BHS. I drilled another hole from the underside of the trailer, just behind the front rock guard up into the space in front of the forward storage compartment (screened off from the compartment by a piece of paneling). There...

I am looking at installing a 500VA inverter to power the fridge while I am towing (same concern - don't want to be running propane while towing). I have a Dometic DM2672 and when I put a kilowatt meter on the shoreline, it seems to be drawing about 340W of power (note - most of the power draw...

I am looking to wire in a 2nd 100W Jaboni panel to boost the PV voltage to my MPPT controller (there is a factory installed 100W Jaboni panel already), but the only place that I've found that sells them whats around $260 for a 100W panel. It would be cheaper to rip off the Jaboni panel and buy...

I tried the DCC30S in my trailer and it was awful. So much so that I am returning it and replacing it with a Victron Energy SmartSolar 75/15 and Orion Smart Tr 18. I wired in the 100W panel on the trailer and pulled up the 12V wire from the 7-pin connector to feed into the DCC30S. First...

Yes, the "Lithium Switch" power centers - just very difficult to find. I did finally find an RV dealer who was able to special order one (WF-8735Lis). Had to drill an extra hole in the camper to pull extra wires from the 7-pin cable up to the DC-DC charger in the forward storage compartment...

I just modded an Apex Nano 194BHS to prepare for converting to lithium. I tried the Renogy DCC30S as it combines the MPPT solar charge controller with a DC-DC converter/charger. I had to bring the 12V wire from the 7-pin cable up into the forward storage compartment (where the charge...

Yeah, it is kind of amazing that so many terms were created for the same thing, and none of them entirely consistent. I've read in several places that "float" does not even apply to LiON batteries - as long as it drops down to something sufficiently below the battery's nominal voltage you're...

I saw a related comment about "USER settings" being a "future development" in the on-line manual. Are you able to configure the "user" settings for the charge profile via the mobile app via bluetooth connection?

All the product manuals and literature out there talk about the charger having three (sometimes four) "stages" - bulk, absorption and float (sometimes by different names). But here is the piece that I am puzzling about. For DC circuits, V=IR. The charger cannot change that rule and "R" is the...

After some more thought, here is my solution to the SAE/Zamp polarity issue -> Custom sticker to apply next to the solar port on the trailer:

Tracked down the source of the warnings regarding SAE ports - there is no defined standard for which wire is positive vs negative (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DC_connector#SAE_connector). The most common convention is that the bare prong is negative so that if it touches the frame of a car...