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In your graph the Vdc-pv goes to 0 volts at 07:45 for several minutes. During the day there are many moments where the Vdc-pv goes 0 volts for a short time. My best guess would be a faulty connection in your solar array somewhere somehow. Otherwise I can’t explain why the voltage would go to...

If you connect it like that the 160W group (higher in voltage) will try to feed the 175W group(lower voltage). No sure what will happen, if things go bad or simply underperform. So in short, not a good idea. Better to give each group their own charge controller.

In the screenshot the voltage is 15.1 V and 0.0 A and there are no errors or warnings. Both charge- and discharge MOSFET are in the ‘on’ position. Looks like your charger won’t go any higher. With what are you charging and what are the chargers settings?

Thanks for sharing your VRM site! My findings: On March 25 17:12 the battery is really at 100% with 30 V and 1.5 A Then the next two days the battery is stable with little load/charge. On March 27 08:30 the battery is at 98.8% with 27.6 V and 2.8 A then 37 minutes later at 09:07 batt at 97%...

When you share your VRM site on VRM world we can all have a look at your data without disturbing any of the settings. Read more about this feature on VRM world. Here’s an example from Andy in Australia

Your SmartShunt is reporting the 100% incorrect. Your batteries are at 100% SOC if the voltage is at 28.8 V for at least one hour while charging. And have your SmartShunt settings like @sunshine_eggo said And change the SOC to 30% when the voltage is at 23.55 V or so.

Float at 13.4 is not a problem. When the SOC is 100% there will be no charge current at 13.4 V. Disabling float altogether is also good.

I feel sorry for you that you had to cut in your lovely rv in order to free the batteries! But luckily your rv didn’t catch fire! For a MPPT it doesn’t matter if the battery is 12 or 24 Volt. You don’t loose any power as you would with pwm. MPPT is great for high voltage input, because this is...

So, you’re good. No problem with overheating the battery’s in summer! You do have to fix the batteries somehow so they don’t move to much when you slam the brakes, drive to fast over a speedbump or climb a steep hill.

LFP battery’s only get warm if used at their max ratings. In your case 4 x 1C = 400 amps which equates to 4.8 kW.

You can also use the EBC-A40L to discharge a cell to a safe voltage like 3.35 V or so. Watch YouTube to learn more about your device

That would be a good thing to do. Just configure the bms settings to a 3 string. That way you can keep the bms as it will still protect you from over- and undercharging, cell under- overvoltage, temperature. The only thing I can think off, is that even though the bms can measure cell #4 will...

The great imbalance might be the reason the bms won’t detect all 4 cells in the string at startup. I agree with @Texas-Mark to take advantage of the opened box and manually balance the cells. You can manually balance the cells by discharging one high cell at a time with a light bulb. Once all...

The first three cells add up to 10.480 V. The bms thinks there are only 3 cells connected. This is confirmed by you in the app. Since this string number 3 can’t be changed manually, you will have to restart the bms. You can do this by unplugging the balance cables and reinserting them after a...

That’s OK. The different SOC’s will catch up, even out after a few cycles. If however the difference in SOC gets worse over time, you’ll need to investigate further.

FD = Fully Discharged The over discharge protection is set at 10.7 V. Since it reads 10.458 V it will disconnect (protect) your battery. You can temporarily change the over discharge protection to 10.0 V and the over discharge release to 10.2 V

Storing LFP in freezing conditions is no problem. Nothing wrong with that. Also the self discharge of LFP is very low to non-existent. So the charging after the storage period is very short. And this is confirmed by you. It flips from bulk to absorption then float quickly. Most likely the...

From the specs it’s now clear that you are operating the 5 panels outside the mppt range. MPPT range starts from 250 VDC Your panels require 5 x 39.2 = 196 VDC in order to deliver their maximum power. So the inverter/charger cannot create the ideal conditions for your current 545 Wp panels...

Your “problem” has to do with the higher current of the newer big panels. The 375 Wp has 9.4 A at max mppt The 545 Wp has 13 A at max mppt Your inverter/mppt is most likely maxed for 10 A current input for the “old style” (read smaller) solar panels.. And because you went down from 6 to 5...

A battery voltage under 12 Volt is almost empty. So you’re definitely drawing more power than you think. The battery heaters should not be active at 48° F. Q1. Are the heaters active? Q2. How much wattage are these heaters?

Your battery was slowly depleting. You use more than the solar can top up. Minimum battery voltage from your screenshot: 3 days ago 12.86 V 2 days ago 12.49 V 1 days ago 11.56 V 0 days ago 0.00 V So today the battery protected itself by shutting down due to undervoltage is my best guess.

The ‘dumb’ or ‘non smart’ Daly bms has the overvoltage set to 3.65 ±0.05 V and under voltage to 2.30 ± 0.05 V. You were unlucky to buy the ‘non smart’ bms and a ‘smart’ balancer. And I agree that the advertisement on Ali is not so clear on that.

Daly uses the same app for both the balancer and bms. In your case the app connects to the balancer and you can only see/modify parameters that has to do with the balancer. The bms itself is the “dumb” type, so you can’t configure anything else. The video in your Ali link also shows no SOC.

Is the VRM done by the Raspberry? If so, where does the raspberry get its power? In the VRM options you can switch on “has DC system”, this will show any consumption after the smartshunt.

From Victron documents 100/30 Nominal PV power, 12 V 1a,b) 440 Watt 100/50 Nominal PV power, 12 V 1a,b) 700 Watt 150/60 Nominal PV power, 12 V 1a,b) 860 Watt 1a) If more PV power is connected, the controller will limit input power. So if you choose the 100/50, you’ll miss ~100 Watt when...

If you put the cell like this, there no chance that the thin blue plastic on that bump will get in contact with a next cell. You don’t want the bare housings touching each other! For that small dent I wouldn’t be worried. Important part is no leakage! Beside that, LFP is a very safe...

Consumption is only registered when the load is connected to the load output of the SCC. The load of the internal heaters is not logged in the SCC. In the float-history I can see that the absorption voltage of 14.2 is met. In the other history it’s not. So not enough solar to resupply the...

Can you post a screenshot of the SCC settings?

What voltages are we talking about? 100% SOC and low temperatures are not a problem. With high temperatures (over 45° C) and 100% SOC and storage for long times LFP will deteriorate faster. The Cerbo will drain the battery slowly, so you need to keep it attached to a SCC or charger. Keep the...

You can swap cell 3 with another cell and see if the problem moves with the bad cell

I don’t think there’s a problem. Thing is that LFP has incredibly low internal resistance. Possibly lower then the cable connections. Because of this the current can change quickly if the resistance in either path changes a tiny bit. Just do a test run from say 10 to 100 to 10 % SOC and check...

Why would you want to charge the starter battery? If the starter battery is only used for starting the engine, there’s no need to charge it. The alternator will charge it while the engine is running. Only when the engine is not used for 6 months or so, you need to charge it.

@FyKnight ,why so difficult? If you set all your chargers to an absorption voltage of 3.45 V per cell, you’ll never overcharge and the SOC will be max somewhere between 95%-99%. It’s all about staying away from the steep curves in the charging profile. And with a float voltage of 3.35 V per...

Think of an electric car where you accelerate (discharge 1-3C) and then decelerate (charge up to 0.5C). Lithium is very good at these rapid changes in current.

No you can’t fix this, the panels are unsafe and End Of Life.?