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The problem on this one is so far chins has denied the warranty claim (saying it just needs to be charged, it’s at 97% already lol) and the battery is 2,000 miles away from me in a commercial application ???‍♂️

While I do somewhat agree with you for a DIY setup but even being a chins this latest failed one was $1350 for the single battery. Way more than $250 like your example.

This is exactly why I only use Rich solar and battleborn batteries now. At least with either of them if an issue does come up I have someone I can call.

That’s an old issue, was resolved then later failed and was replaced with 2 battleborns. Now another one on a different trailer has failed.

It is a 300ah smart w/low temp heater. I don’t even see that one listed as being made any longer. All the issues I’ve had have been with the smart BMS. No issues with the dumb ones lol. However the smart battery applications have been in high demand applications but still within the stated...

I have 15+ other chins batteries still performing fine but after now having 4 separate issues its enough for me to absolutely never recommend them to anyone again. All the issues seem to revolve around there smart bms, all the ones ive installed without the smart BMS are functioning fine as far...

Not sure on the model number but it is a 300AH smart with heater battery. $1,330.00

Update posted in my original post. Another failed chins battery. What a let down.

I’ll try to keep this short while getting all the info out there. I’ll start with a little background. I’m a solar/battery enthusiast and mobile offgrid installer. Over the last 2years or so I’ve installed over $20k worth of lithium batteries, many of which are Chins. The early ones had 0...

Thanks for that tip, just tried it and still nothing. Also figured I’ll add this....the only way I can get the BMS to turn on is to plug in the UART to usb cable. The second I plug that in the BMS turns in. Still no info via pc or Bluetooth though.

Hopefully someone has some advice. I purchased a 100amp 4s daly smart bms from "srikobatteries" on ebay. My cells finally arrived after nearly 2 months, got it all hooked up and it is charging through the BMS without issue however i can not get the bluetooth or PC to communicate. In the smart...

update on this....I did end up receiving a replacement non bulging pack, much flatter than any of the other 5 I received lol I set the severely bulging one aside till tonight. Pulled the side covers off and discover one of the cells foil vents was blown open. That cells tests at .2v, all others...

I run a small RV solar business. I’ve had customers ask me to “glue” panels down. I know there are people and products that make it work however I will not use glue alone. Every panel I install gets 4 screws plus a form of “glue”.

Only time it matters to me is if size is a concern.

A 60amp Tracer charge controller would work great with that solar setup. I’ve run 800watts on even the 40amp tracer

A 75amp 12v charger os no problem for a single e2000, would take about half of the generators continuous rating. Issue must be other things in the RV pulling substantial power. Also, unless he has a huge battery bank most lead acid RV batteries won’t take a 75amp charge very long, they usually...

I have 2 tracer 40amp units. One running 800watts @12v and the other 1300 watts @24v

Not sure about all brands but EPever it is 40amp limit no matter voltage.

Little update. After over a week with no reply from battery hookup they finally sent an email asking if I’d like a replacement battery, to which I replied yes. No reply or battery in over a week since then, not sure if they shipped one or not. On the good news side I did a week long balance...

If you wire it in after the factory transfer switch it will only transfer 1 leg of the 50amp power. That’s why in the one I posted above used 2 victrons, 1 for each leg. Gets more complicated if you want the entire panel powered off 1 inverter.

You can leave the factory install transfer switch. Wire the multiplus in after the switch.

For that test I used alligator clips, still working on the more final solution.

The limiting factor on most lead acid batteries is internal resistance and voltage rise. What I mean is I can hook a 50amp charger to my 50% depleted battery but the charger only charges at 35 amps. Why? because the only way to force more amperage into the battery is to bring the voltage even...

You won’t damage anything. Most modern cars alternators charge up to 14-14.4v then drop down to 14ish while driving. You probably have 20’ of #12wire running to the back of your tow vehicle, that’s a lot of resistance. Let’s say your cars battery is at 13v, and your trailer lifepo4 battery is at...

I’d guess you overcharged the pack right from the start which didn’t help anything. You said the charger cut off while charging through the separate port BMS. That was probably when your first cell hit 3.65, who knows how many got well above 4v. Safest bet is to charge and discharge through the...

I’m guessing it’s battery or wiring related, not 2 bad chargers. I had a similar issue with a different brand scc. A customer contacted me to add 2 additional panels to his current system. After I hooked everything up the scc kept restarting. It would start up, output low amperage, then ramp...

Load tested 1 of them today, not the extra bulgy one though. Needs more balancing, cells varied from 3.5-3.7v at start of the load test. Got 2.9kwh stopping at about 2.9-2.98 volt per cell. With a little more work I’m sure I could get 3k out of it.

It could be done, but I don’t see a reason when over paneling causes no harm to the charge controller. I’ve over paneled several EPever tracer co trollers, manual states you can do 2 or 3 times listed output (can’t remember exactly you). I have one running at 280watts over and another at 300...

Update: no reply at all from battery hookup.

Only other pics I have

They are dual stud

It’s possible, but I’m pretty confident the damage is from the cells bulging.

I just replied to there email, in there first reply they made no effort other than a refund if I pay to ship it back. Hopefully we can work something out, I’ve bought from them in the past and been happy but this seems like poor business to ship batteries that show clear signs of damage.

Received 5 of the byd packs from batteryhookup. Several of them are pretty heavily bulging but one of them has actually bulged some far is has broken the plastic end caps of the case. I emailed them, they’re only reply was feel free to ship it back. It seems pretty ridiculous they’d even ship...

No the neutral is only balancing any u even loads on each leg. With a 50amp breaker on each leg in split phase the neutral can never have more than 50amps.