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A little late but the most straightforward way would be to go for a UPS that can take that battery voltage. Generally they are already isolated and of course are way over engineered with every protection and filtering imaginable. Depending on the wattage you need and if you get lucky you can...

If it were me I would definitely do what you're talking about here, especially considering that two of those modules in series are pretty much the perfect voltage, but of course there's plenty of precautions one would have to take. Primarily I would start by removing all the bridges on the pack...

As long as you stay within the input parameters you should be fine. Says PV max open circuit is 150vdc so that's what I would try to go for. VOC of those panels is 37v each, You should be able to put 4 in series. Now, it says 36-72vdc nominal, that's generally because the buck converter inside...

Think of it this way, you could use the cable to jump start cars AND tow them... At the same time! Talk about transfer of energy

Not sure how you got to the conclusion of 20% less conduction. That crimp looks perfectly fine. I've been using one of those cheap hydraulic crimpers for a few years, built my 48v golf cart with 400a controller using it. Terminals have seen all sorts of water humidity and dirt for around 4...

There's a forum called "thebackshed" which has a big community of people who do just that. People that make 1-5kw inverters using the egs002 and they are relatively simple to build, and since you have all the schematics and parts lists you know where everything is and what everything does. Makes...

Those do work fine, I've had one charging my 12v SUV's battery with a 110w flexible panel on top for 2 years now, works great. But I wouldn't trust them over like 25A. Took mine apart to check it out and the MOSFETs inside were rated to like 100A if I remember correctly but the only cooling they...

Not sure about those 5.5KW ones as they do say grid tied. Surely there is a setting to turn it off but you'd probably have to find the manual and look through it to see I know they have a 5kva model that doesn't feed the grid because I had one, never actually used it but just looked at the...

Your idea will work fine the only thing would be that once the bad charger stops charging, all the power from the solar panels connected to it will just be wasted, meanwhile even if the batteries are only 80% the other solar panels with the other charger will have to supply the rest of the...

US $98.90 14%OFF | Solar water pump inverter DC to AC 0.75kw-11kw 220V or 380V Output Variable frequency speed controller for water pump https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPBjthk Found these on AliExpress. Looks like they fit the bill and are actually quite cheap. Literally like I mentioned earlier just...

I know there's some solar "pump controllers" which are literally reprogrammed VFD's that just take the 300-400vdc directly from panels coded with an MPPT algorithm. Now if you need to run it without sun then yes, you will need a way to store the energy therefore a battery, but I PRESUME those...

Don't think so. Looked him up in the registry and there's no Klontz. What I did find on LinkedIn is a Keith Klontz that was a professor in USF from 1995-1998. Looks like he left and started a company that deals with designing and manufacturing industrial motors/generators.

Ucf, but I'm studying Aerospace, nothing to do with electronics, and it shows... The setup in the first video was completely wrong, and while testing a bit I realized that in trying to filter the output using only caps, I was turning it into a very bad buck converter. Bad as in, since I had no...

You could also use grid tied inverters and tie them to your grid. But obviously won't be able to charge batteries with the power. Something like US $46.77 21%OFF | 300W 350W 500W 600W 700W Solar PV Grid Tie Micro Inverter MPPT DC26V-46V Solar Input AC110V-240V Output Home Solar On Grid...

You can't put boost converters in series, they're not isolated. You'll just short them out. Really the only way I see it working properly is if you just use the correct cables. 200A is way too much current to be carrying for 100 meters. Personally it were me I would cut my losses and try to...

Now that you mention it. If you were to put a DC-DC boost converter on the output of each turbine's rectifier, and set them all to the exact same voltage, then put them all in parallel, the load should spread quite evenly. The problem would be finding a boost converter that can turn your 48v...

I do not think that is feasible. Especially at that distance I would much rather either just go solar or try to find a single really large turbine for sale locally. 20 turbines is 20x the amount of moving parts and 20x the maintenance.

Well today was VERY good progress. I did some research and everything pretty much has to do with the circuit layout. Of course with the breadboard I had all these really long thin wires going back and forth, all wrapped around eachother making a nest of all sorts of noises. So I spent tonight...

Decided to try it with a higher bus voltage, at 60V to see how it went. Not too good lol. There is an ABSURD amount of ripple noise leaking into the 3.3v rail on the breadboard. I'm talking about +- 2v or even more, everytime the IGBT switches. It's funny, I thought that the main issue would be...

Alright I've been going at it for a while today and realized that in my attempts to filter the output pwm into a smooth DC voltage, I accidentally turned it into a buck converter. At 12V 1A input I could get around 10A at 0.75v out on the other side. Didn't try anymore as that's what I set my...

Here's a video I made playing around with it and talking about it. I'm actually pretty happy with how the PWM and duty cycle modulation works with the ESP32. I know a lot of people don't like the idea of it but it works pretty flawlessly as of now. The next thing I will do is mess around with...

So, after buying a bunch of random parts for my HVDC Franken-Inverter project and then putting it on the backburner for college, I'm finally done with classes and have ~1 month free before next semester. So time to get cranking! I was daydreaming a bit about the inverter, and decided it would...

Yes, the efficiency would be horrible. Not to mention the amount of failure points added to the system, bearings, belts, brushes for the motor, and of course, with the cost of a giant DC motor and giant alternator required to generate say 5kw continuously, you'll be so much better off just...

Unfortunately I haven't worked on this project and probably won't for quite a while as I have begun in-person college classes again and have been quite busy. I was able to reverse-engineer a schematic of the driver board about 70% of the way, including the gate drivers and isolated power...

So an update, pretty much on hold waiting for some parts to arrive. I tested multiple configurations of gate resistors, and anything above 4.7ohm causes overshoot at higher collector voltages (at 30v, current draw goes up from the constant ~0.06A to around 0.1A), and I suspect that at even...

I sat down and looked at my driver board for a bit, analyzed the drive circuit with a multimeter and made a mental schematic of it. Really weird setup for the negative gate drive, but here we go. 1) 12v power comes in through the input. A UC3843A pwm driver IC drives a 80N75 mosfet, which pwms...

This is the page I'm referencing https://openinverter.org/docs/index.html?en_gate-driver,23.html I found an interesting document about the test driver board that Infineon makes for this specific IGBT module. Attached it to this post. It seems like there's some sort of internal resistance...

They are Infineon FF1000R17iE4P bricks

Haha that big capacitor is a 450v 8400uF capacitor. Why? Was it a bad idea or is it just hilariously big? Did you say you were running 12V on collector. Yes, but I did test it all the way up to 33v which is my power supply's maximum and it behaved well. I didn't scope the gates on 33v though...

So I did a bit of research and decided to test it again and this time scope the gates. After like 8 minutes or so had to shut it down as the gate resistors were getting dangerously hot, like 120C. From what I understand after a couple google searches, this is caused by the gate resistance being...

The board finally got here, while I was waiting I cooked up this... Thing. I tried tinning the busbars, didn't come out too good and I had to sand them flat at the bottom for good contact but anyways, it's done. Also made a temporary LC filter with 2 1MH inductors in series and 8.8uF of caps...

Yeah what surprises me is that that thing's still kicking, ~40 years old, running 24/7 in India of all places, where stable, clean service is nonexistent. I was looking to see what I could do for bus bars and decided to go the cheapest route, I got 1/2" L copper pipe and put it in the press to...

I agree that the gate drives need to be as close as possible to the IGBT but from what I've seen it's not critical. Most of the examples I've seen have ~4" or so of twisted wire from the drivers to the gates, except those with the IGBT's that have many small round pins to be soldered thru a PCB...

So I came to the realization that making a gate drive board would be way too time-consuming for me, especially considering I have very little experience in the field. So I just decided to purchase a pre-fabricated one, which has a built-in egs002 and controls everything. All that's needed...

So I was doing quite a bit of research and consulted with the people at openinverter (which is an open source three-phase electric vehicle motor inverter). The gate drivers they used originally were the HCPL-3120, using a DC-DC converter to create both + and - voltages for the gate driver. They...