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Thanks John. You're right of course. I just thought the resistance difference of the two sources would have the house battery supplying the inverter. I'll have to look at the cabling closer!

Chrisski & John, Thanks. Chrisski noted the inverter, but if you look at the drawing the inverter is served by the house battery which will be less than 4ft from the inverter. This connection will be charging from the alternator (190A) only. The only way to terminate to a chassis ground is to...

Chrisski, it would mean just adding ~$120 negative cable cost? The house battery negative is currently chassis grounded. That circuit is just for charging the house battery. Other than extra voltage drop associated with the chassis ground, anything I need to worry about?

Yeah. Great resource. I found his site while searching for answers to my question.

John, Thanks. Yes, I expected chassis resistance was different. Battery/alternator cables are 4 awg. I wasn't planning to upgrade those. I'm expecting 50A max (25 amps standard) from the alternator.

AHTrimble, Thanks. I had done as you recommend (and thus the larger wire size.) Yep, I have the explorist site up! It called for 1/0, so I was planning 2/0 on the positive and negative sides of the path.

Hi, I'm relocating a house battery to inside the living area of the van in anticipation of upgrading to LiFePO4 battery w/dc-dc charger later. Primary charging will be from the alternator with small solar as secondary. Wire size calculators are looking for the round trip (RT) distance. The...

Our I could go the other way and meet you in Lincoln.

I am actually in Penn Valley (near Grass Valley) but could meet you somewhere in between. Could you get to Auburn or down the hill a bit? It would be great to have someone use it.

Hi, I purchased a Renogy 2000 Watt inverter/charger in 2020. I planned to install it in my R-Pod when I completed the LFP battery build. Well, I completed that and realized that I don't need the Inv/Chgr. Propane and 12VDC are all we really need. It was never installed. Just tested in the...

I have 16 EVE 280AH cells (plus two spares) from my golf cart. They are in great shape. Charged to 3.5V and discharged to 3.0V. Cart draws 65A-70A normally and 150A up hills. I have to remove them so I can sell the cart - we're moving and can't take the cart. Asking $35 each OBO. I'm just...

I purchased another BMS16T as I couldn't get Jason to acknowledge it was a BMS problem. Jason said he was giving me a discount but I wound up paying $30 less for just the main unit and the balancing leads. Don't think that was a discount. Here are the readings (8/21 is the new BMS): Cell BMS...

They a re EVE 280AH cells. They are available through a number of sources, many of which are discussed on the forum. They are much more capacity than I needed. 200AH cell would have still been more than my Trojan batteries provided.

Yes, I did build the battery. I had six 8V Trojan batteries before. The built-in charger killed them, so I decided it was time to go LiFePo4. Measure, then measure again a couple of times to make sure the pack will fit in the space. You may also have to do some minor adjustments to the battery...

Someone recommended tile spacers and placing them at each corner and in the middle of the side of the cell. I used Troxell Horseshoe Shims 1/8" https://troxellusa.com/spacers-ts-shims-wedges/wedges-shims/1-8-horseshoe-shim-red-150-jar/ I made sure the U shape was up, so heat would not get trapped.

Here's my build using plywood and threaded rod. I didn't want problems later, so I using plastic over the threaded rods. Between the cells, I used 1/8" plastic spacers. I applied moderate tightness on the threaded rod and secured the pack to the frame, I think I will be fine. They are in a golf...

Sorry you are having problems too. He has sent me the manual three times and says I need to calibrate even though I did. The unit runs in the mid to high 40c - with the case removed and no balancing. Even with my fan on it, points on the BMS PCB run 47-49c without balancing. He says fan is...

I have an Elcon HK-H-H66-25 and yes I mean when disconnecting the charging current. They have two types Enable Switch and CANbus. I have the Enable switch version and use the Chargery charge relay to break the Enable line when the Chargery wants to turn off charging. Regarding the SOC...

Ok. I removed the case and turned balancing back on. Balancing did run for a short time and then stopped. I checked the temperature and sure enough, the PCB board was reading 55c. I put a fan near the board and the temperature dropped to 44c - balancing restarted. It could be the high...

An update from Jason on the temperature issue. He says he wants me to put a fan in the PCB heatsink that is inside the case (see attachment.) Wow, that is the solution? Anyone else having temperature issues with the BMS16T?

Not exactly the same symptoms you are experiencing... In addition to the problems with the BMS16T cell mV reported values vs DMM reported values I posted on another thread, I have been dealing with two other problems: 1) high temperature on the main unit and 2) BMS SOC and AHs catastrophic drop...

First, I should note that I am using C110 1/8" X 1" copper bar stock for buss bars. I cleaned buss bars associated with BMS wires 7,8,9 and 10. No difference. Luckily I'm using grub screws with all the loosening and tightening I have been doing.

Got me thinking. I cleaned the posts and the bottom of the buss bars, but not the top where the BMS connections make contact. I'll have to give that a try on cells 9 and 16 to see if it makes a difference.

Yes, they are the original wires shipped with the Chargery BMS.

Ampster, yeah I have been worried about that, but I have been careful to disconnect from the BMS before doing any work.

BiduleOhm, would varying IR of individual cells affect stored energy even if the cells show the same voltage?

The black lead on the 1-8 wire harness is on the negative post of the cell 1 along with the negative cable going to the shunt. In trying to address the problem, I have replaced 9-, 9+ and 16+ wire harness connectors and crimped them (no solder) with no change in the results. When I originally...

Thanks guys. I sent Jason a message about the issue and a link to this topic. He's busy I'm sure, but hopefully he can share his thoughts.

Of course, I don't know what I'm doing :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: so that's not an option for me.

BiduleOhm, Yeah, generally it does go up in the second half, but the BMS cell reporting for 12 and 13 have larger variances than cell 1. There's a ground on cell 9-. I'm wondering what the BMS does internally with that additional - reference point. I am not aware that there is a way to calibrate...

Craig, thanks for the feedback. I checked all of the connections when I installed the ring terminals. As a first step, I also replaced 9-and 9+ ring terminals. and then 16 ring terminal. No change observed. So, you don't usually experience misreadings on the cell voltages in the Chargery BMS? I...

Here's the full list of readings: Cell # BMS Reading DMM Reading Calibrated BMS vs DMM Calibrated 1 3.315 3.325 -0.010 2 3.328 3.328 0.000 3 3.325 3.325 0.000 4 3.329 3.329 0.000 5 3.331 3.328 0.003 6 3.340 3.325 0.015 7 3.318 3.327 -0.009 8 3.326 3.328 -0.002 9 3.300 3.322...

Hi, I noticed my BMS16T cell measurements are not accurate as some of the cells report higher or lower voltage than my DMM. I have a 2.5V reference standard and have adjusted the DMM numbers to correct for its 0.00271V low readings: Cell # BMS Reading DMM Reading BMS vs DMM 3 3.325 3.325...

Sorry, Jason for saying Steve. The question was made to you.

Steve, I noticed in the document that you control the negative side of the battery with the DCCs. That's a change from the original relays where you controlled the positive side. Why the difference?