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Oops, I just checked with Battle Born and they do NOT recommend using their GC2s for an engine starting battery. So I need to have a small flooded lead acid battery for an engine starting battery. I will check out the Libin 225 next and also check to see if the manufacturer will recommend a...

I am building a 12V system for our 1969 22 ft. classic RV with solar. I have mounted 6 ea. Battle Born GC2 100 Ah batteries connected to an AIMS 3000 watt inverter/charger/transfer switch. I will be removing the vehicle 12 V flooded lead engine/house batteries and using just the LFP for all RV...

Damn, that would have saved me thousands! Can you tell me the battery dimensions and weight for one 12V 280 AH? I had been looking around but it seemed that ordering from the Far East was risky. Did you test your cells like Will did? Congrats. My BB GC2s don't have a heater, but the BMS...

You will have to ask BB about that question. Since the engine and inverter need 12 volts, that is how I went. Also, the inverter is 12 volts input and the solar can be wired in series/parallel since I have a MMPT solar controller and that is more efficient and can use slightly smaller wiring...

Thanks!

OK, so L2 is the second line in the 50 amp feed, I suspect. Sorry, not familiar with the rtu term - remote ?? unit?

I need to figure out how to wire it. Right now I have 30 amps but want 50 amps or 30 amps with 20 amps for the roof A/C. I need to figure out how to run a separate 20 amp line for the roof A/C but have it automatically connected when running 50 amps. If I have a 30 amp adapter and run a 30...

So I looked up the KISAE transfer switch and I think I understand. While it says to only use with a KISAE 2400W and below inverter, it seems that it would work for my AIMS 3000W inverter/charger/transfer switch. This would take the separate 20 amp input and transfer it to the roof A/C, when...

Thanks for that idea. I need to review how the AIMS 3000 W inverter/charger/transfer switch works or if I need to add another transfer switch. That might be a great solution. I am planning on having our battery bank drive the AIMS 3000 W inverter for the roof A/C when on the road, so I am...

Thanks for the warning. I will be redoing ALL the 110 wiring inside the coach. I will replace the 3 circuit breaker panel that exists with about 8 circuit breakers for every run. I will be adding a 50 amp input socket and running to the AIMS 3000 watt pure sinewave inverter/charger/transfer...

This is a WONDERFUL discussion. I now understand the issue with the GFCI and even more concerning possible issues with tripping breakers that might not be accessible to me and potential damage with some older wiring. There are enough gotchas that this is not worth risking. I agree with you...

Since I am going 100 percent electric, I wanted more than 30 amps and CamoGreg showed me a 50 amps splitter cable with 30 amp male connector and a 20 amp male connector. I like this as an option if the 50 amp service is not available. I will likely normally use 50 amp service, but if that is...

Yes, I understand. I am planning for flexibility when 50 A RV service is not available, like at home or some RV sites with only 30A and 20A. I want to be able to plug in for maximum power for those situations. For most RV parks I will just go 50 A, but when that does not work or is not...

Hi CamoGreg, I really appreciate your comments. To answer your question, NO, my RV is now only a 30 amp single phase. That said, I am building the circuit breaker panel and I want to be able to have more than 30 amps, but also single phase. I was unaware of the 30 +20 adapter. Also, I...

Thanks for your comments. The idea is to separate the possibly long running roof A/C power and that approximately 14 amps from the rest of the 50 amps. By splitting it off, I have the entire other 50 amps to use for the induction cooktop, the microwave, the hot water heater, the coffee pot and...

Because I am going 100% electric appliances, I want to maximize the amps I can pull from shore power. I want to be able to use either 30 amp or 50 amp service. When using 50 amps, I am thinking that I might be able to use one of the 50 amp lines dedicated for the roof A/C and the other line...

Oh, OK, that makes sense since one GC3 is close to the weight of three GC2 batteries.

My six GC2s arrive tomorrow. Have you tested any of the four you received? I have the little fan attached battery tester that Will likes so well and want to see how they compare to their specs.

Oh, I missed that spec on the GC3 output. I hope to limit my max current to less than 500 Amps since I will be installing a Victron Smart Shunt rated at 500 Amps. I bought six GC2s to help reduce the max drain and extend the battery life with reduced drain cycles. My GC2s arrive tomorrow and...

I looked carefully and my space will not quite fit the two of the Game Changer 3 batteries, so I decided to purchase six of the GC2s at 100 Ah each for a total of 600 Ah, or slightly more than the 540 Ah for two GC3s. The GC2s are 31 lbs each or a total of 186 lbs versus about 162 lbs. I...

The stock Corvair alternator is 37 amps, but I will replace it with around an 80 amp alternator for engine and load and Battle Born recommends a 30 amp Victron Orion dc to dc isolator. They said without the isolator I would be risking overheating and burning out the stock alternator so I...

I am serious about purchasing two of the Battle Born GC3 batteries (2 ea. 270 Ah 12 volts) for installation in our 1969 22 ft. Ultravan Class A RV. These are on sale for $2359 right now and possibly through January 2022. They are in stock with about a 2 day delivery into CA. These should...

And ... How did they work? Capacity?

OK, I was not familiar with the Valence XP 138AH battery. The specs say it is good for 300 Amps for 30 seconds. That is getting very close to my needs. I run about 400 amps for 10 seconds or so as measured by a 1000A clamp meter. I think I need to now install my Victron 500 Amp...

Correction: that 8AH AGM capacity was only to the 50% 12.3V setting so it is really about 16AH, but still near death.

I have been making some progress with my Ultravan RV solar and Lion battery system. I decided to purchase a dedicated engine starting battery now (and for engine starting reliability) and keep looking for the four 280a DIY cells when I can find a reliable (read as dependable) supplier who can...

I just looked at the Daly 300A BMS specs. They say that they can handle over current and up to 1000 Amps until they cut out. So it would appear that for my 400 amps for maybe 6 seconds it would handle that just fine. The Daly 300A BMS is just over $300 delivered. I could do a...

Thanks, Toms, for posting this. I was not aware of these LFP and super cap starting batteries. They are not very heavy and are reasonably light, so I could isolate the engine running and starting circuits from the house battery and that should work fine for about $300. My only question of...

OK, will do. Thanks for the reference. This is pretty critical for me to get this right and hopefully not too expensively or with a weight penalty. I for sure do NOT want to put any Lion (non-LFP) in that RV. We all saw what happened to the Lion powered Tesla that crashed into a tree...

All that makes sense. I would think, without knowing much about BMS's right now, that if the BMS limit is exceeded the BMS would cut out and return once the overcurrent limit was reduced (typically less than 10 seconds and normally 2-6 seconds for me). I will start researching this important...

While the engine is an Olds Toronado 455 ci engine and the rule of thumb is 1 CCA for each ci engine size, my engine "only" draws about 400 amps as measured by a 1000 A clamp meter. I will install the Victron SmartShunt rated at 500A, to get a better assessment of the CCA. As a newbie, I...

Well, at this time, we have about zero boondocking experience, so I really don't know how much battery recharge from the generator powered charger we might ever need. Also, the 200 W of solar is new within the past two months and by early June we should receive another 200 W of solar panels...

OK, I completely missed your point! Let me explain my situation and I will welcome comments. It seems I have four different charging and usage situations: 1. Driving with alternator charging and plenty of 12 volt amps available. Need DC-DC charger to save alternator and prevent over...

Yes, mine is a PD9200 series possibly 40 amps or more. Designed for lead acid and AGM era. With boost, I think those would be dangerously high SoC as you mention. Needs to come out asap and certainly before LFP installation. With solar I no longer have any use for boost with my AGMs.