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I have also done that,

Has anyone else had an issue where the display will jump back and forth between charging and discharging? I have the kg140f, and I cannot get it to stop. I have zeroed the current using the long up arrow press but no impact. I have reset and restarted too but it keeps flipping back and forth...

Would a single 100W 10ohm resister serve the purpose, or will that allow too much current to pass to quickly?

The LVs will "blend" grid and solar when set to SUB or SBU (Solar Utility Battery or Solar Battery Utility) mode. Unless you're going to be exceeding 6500 watts on either leg the machines would be fine. If you pull beyond that you're right and I misunderstood. I my setup I specifically...

I've got a similar system where the math doesn't really add up, but it does allow me to shave some of the electric cost. My math is worse than his as I have only 2K worth of solar connected to 20KWH worth of battery. I cycle the battery bank between 60 and 85% SOC (when I can get it that...

I would use a 150A breaker in your first panel after the service entrance direct to a manual XFER rated for that amount, run the 60A outputs from the two inverters to its other input. The output would be Teed to feed both of the subpanels.

I don't think you need the auto switch. You can use the Manual xfer switch to directly supply grid power to your sub-panels should you need to take the LVs offline for any reason. My question is how do you isolate them from AC in? Is the feed to the manual xfer switch before or after that 60A...

In today’s America can you do that? Okay, I am done here for now

Wow, I think the created a new word ?

So next time I want to move my panels should I just call you?

yeah, those things scare the absolute hell out of me, as much as climbing any rock face. In both cases you prepare, you focus, you learn, you take all reasonable precautions, and you know your damned limitations

Wish that had been available a year ago for sure. Wish they could put the common neutral issue to rest one way or the other too. Protran switches are very convenient

The difference is the massive amperage delivery potential of the lithium cells

Will made a good point above, make sure you fusebetween the different strings. My AGMs have faded to the point I have repurposed them to fishing motor and CamperVan duty so I am out of the mixnmatch game

I am unsure if there is a significant diff betwix 4S2P vs 2P4S. I would think one connection between the rows at the closest approach would be least wire intensive

I have a similar layout with 2 rows of 4 with the back-row more shaded than the front, especially in winter months. I ran each to a separate MPPT controller, but if you cannot do that then I suggest putting each row in series then connecting the two rows in Parallel

Nice catch. I never new this. Is this is a general rule for any loads that are constant for a period of 3 or more hours?

No you'll be fine. 12 volt lights fans etc are designed to run in a range of voltages from the low to mid 14s to the low 10s. Many wider

I'm very glad you're smoke detector alerted you and you located the melting wires. Do you have any idea as to why a 30Amp Charge Controller managed to overheat 10 AWG wire? That shouldn't be able to happen. Is it possible the connection was loose?

Wow, you are hostile towards folk, that's fine there are plenty of "Helpful" people here to offset your petty jealousy

I "stood-off" my inverter from the backer by 3.5 inches (An alum clad 2 x 4) at the top and the bottom (an MPP LV6548 so it's only 60# or so) to allow for airflow behind the unit and to keep the hot bits from actually resting against anything.

That was both harsh and unhelpful. What about the facts laid out above turn you into a hostile ass?

This is interesting in that the Jakiper gen-1 battery cells would be in the 3rd (bad) orientation when that battery is loaded into a rack normally. I've not opened my EG4 but I seem to remember that they are in the same orientation as Jakiper's (wide side down). I currently have both batteries...

All I can say is. “What.a RACK!!!”

I have a similar approach (old clunky laptop with RS232 / 485 adapters) for monitoring batteries. i am not letting anyone onto that VLAN however. While I chafe at not having control of my BMS I can see why they lock them down EG4s are also locked, but I haven’t asked for their PW yet Do both...

Available certainly. Connected to my critical infrastructure, no

No, the cells IR is substantially different. It runs both up and down. i sent video of it sagging under load and that convinced Jakiper to send replacement kit. I am only at 42 cycles after 9 months, and 5+ of those happened in the last 2 weeks as I worked this issue

Wouldn’t somebody have to enter it for that to reveal it? If I don’t have it to enter it, and I am not allowing remote access I don’t think such monitoring will reveal anything. I could be wrong, I am not a data traffic guy but …

That beautifully summarizes the quandary of serviceable lithium batteries

How did you get the SOB up top?

Cannot go wrong with Victron. My issue is that when I finally had to take it to zero, it only delivered 94%, and now that’s what the BMS thinks “full” is. My cell 12 has a lower IR so it drops faster under load and peaks faster under charge. They will get there, but they’re being methodical...

Well it’s not resolved, but is badly as I have bashed them for the bait and switch with the first GEN batteries, and the silly alarm function meant to sell you a $40 cable you could make yourself for two dollars I figure I need to also tell the good. They have been helpful and reasonable working...

Why do that instead of attaching a good capacitive active balance to transfer the energy from the runner to the laggards

passive balancing at that rate against a 6 amp charge current will never get you anywhere, especially with the tendency of that BMS to shutdown the process when it considers the battery to be "full". The fact it only balances at all when there is a positive charge current means it'll never...

The Husky has been run that way for over 18 months, the EG-4 about 8 months. I fill em up on occaision and they both stay within 20MV all the way to 3.5 volts per cell. I never bother to push higher than that, I mean why all you're doing is shortening your cycle life? I ran em all down to 20%...