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When I look in the Victron bluetooth app at the stats for my Smart shunt, vs what it shows for the MultiPlus 2k, I noticed that the battery SOC is off a good bit - shunt says 100%, MP2k says 87% (as an example, not sure what it is right this minute). Is it normal for these to drift apart like...

At that price, you're footing the bill for shipping ;)

Interesting question. That seems like a straightforward approach... which should be a good start at least. Might be worth getting a cheap shunt with electronics already set up, and use it as a learning tool to calibrate your efforts against ie make sure you are getting similar results.

But how do you get that info *out*, short of having a RPi set up running VenusOS - which is way higher power than the hardware the OP was talking about.

I'll preface this by saying I have zero experience with grid-tie solar, or how the payment/billing schema looks for such a setup. But... In a previous job, as a substation technician for an electrical utility, one of the things I got a first-hand look at was how the power demands shifted from...

What I have... Eight (8) New true grade A Ganfeng 277ah cells. These should test 285ah to 290ah (according to the upstream seller) and are all from a batch manufactured on 5-30-21. A factory test report (of a representative sample, not these particular cells) is available. $1,265.91 total...

Sure. It's functionally the same as any other unsecured load, which will get your tit in the proverbial wringer in pretty much any state. Whether the law allows any wiggle room between obviously unsecured, like not putting netting over yard or construction waste in the back of a truck or...

Yeah... and how many 'tethers' do you ever see commercially installed? Zero. The panels were already bolted to cross bars, bolted to strut channel, and screwed into the metal frame of the roof. From extremely painful discussions with the factory about their methods, I can say with a fair...

Essentially, yes. It was there when we pulled out of the gas station in the early morning. Wasn't there after we got thru a section with high winds and finally pulled into the next rest area.

A couple things to consider... On our truck camper, the connections at the roof top entry gland were standard MC4 plugs, with 'solar' rated wiring. It was still #10 stranded conductor, just with a thicker insulating jacket designed to be left exposed to UV. About 18" inside the camper...

Dunno... but when I was checking the starter (inrush) current on my Onan 2500LP generator, people here were quibbling over whether a clamp-on ammeter was the right tool for the job. And I wasn't using some cheapo gadget; I had my (admittedly dated by now) Fluke 33 that I used to use for various...

Oh, they were *plenty* tight. I'd thought that set of bolts looked a little... puny... but figured it'd be fine. Not so much. One panel came off entirely, and just to add insult to injury, it landed in the middle of another panel on the way off.

They're a little more noticeable from a distance, oddly enough. Had a bit of an "aw crap" with the supplied hardware. I upgraded all the mounting hardware *except* the cheezy serrated flange nuts holding the panels to the rails. Which vibrated loose on the first long trip (granted, the 60-70...

Yeah, that right front panel ended up sitting a bit further forward than I had planned, due to the bathroom skylight. Not quite all the way to where the steep slope of the nose starts, but close. So I 'fabricated' the air dam out of some roof flashing from HD ?

We did a pretty hefty electrical system upgrade to our slide-in truck camper (2017 Adventurer 910DB) back in November/December. Up top, I used half-height aluminum strut channel either screwed directly into the aluminum roof frame where possible, or using well nuts (for the two holes where it...

You might check RVwithTito on YT... he has a couple videos on permanently mounting flexible panels. The later versions appeared to address some of the common issues (heating, etc.). We have a TC, not a 5'ver, but I do get the concerns about branches, etc. There are some pretty wild setups...

https://shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/connectors/victron-lynx-adapter/

If you don't have plastisol, or the fancy tools rated for working hot... half-lap double-wrap was what we used back in the Navy before that stuff was commonly available and/or issued.

Also: never trust borrowed test equipment. And always do a live-dead-live test - or else.

Based off experience, I will say that DC, and 400 Hz AC hurt a hell of a lot worse than standard 60 cycle AC. Not that I'd recommend it either way. Also, AC tends to have skin effect to some degree, while DC tends to go straight thru from entrance to exit - and whatever organs might be along...

Have you read *any* of this thread?!?

While I'll give ya points for creativity, it seems distinctly lacking in terms of interacting with the actual Victron app...

Must be nice. I shopped around I think 3 or 4 different electrical supply houses in my area... not one carried aluminum strut of any brand/flavor. The ones that were willing to special order it for me... let's just say it was literally half the price for me to order the four 10 ft sticks I...

Good stuff!!! Looking forward to the next installment(s)!

I got my panels (Hi-Tec brand) from Continuous Resources... they were recommended as a reputable dealer, and have done right by me. I'm not sure there is a 'best' per se, or at least not as long as you go with a good brand or dealer.

That's one of the things I want to fix/address on my system this season. I've got a similar setup - Victron MP 2k, Lynx distributor, two SOK 206 ah LFP batteries, Orion DC-DC charger, Smart Shunt... but with a Victron 100/30 SCC and four 215 watt panels set up 2S2P, and an Onan 2500LP generator...

...or a truck camper. I ran dedicated 6 AWG cables back from the vehicle battery to the Orion. The truck can take care of the truck battery - the Orion is just there to charge the camper batteries, for me.

If you're charging a house battery and a vehicle battery, then yes, you need one for each. Do you see a vehicle battery in the OP's diagram? Go actually look at the link I provided to the HTML5 version of the Victron manual for the Orion 12/30 Smart Isolated. The very first example they show...

The BMS on the batteries should take care of that. Or at least, it does on SOK's.

No, it doesn't.

The Victron shunt generally goes on the negative lead of the batteries. Probably better to run jumpers from battery to battery, and then *one* lead to the disconnect, and *one* lead to the shunt and from there to the Lynx. I'd put some sort of OC protection on the line from the...

I'm not too worried about the components and wiring installed thus far. The components are all known-good name brands (Victron, SOK), and having been deep into the guts of the factory wiring on a couple RVs, I know my work is for damn sure better quality and/or heavier-duty than what most RV...

I'm curious... how many people here have bought and/or sold RVs with a customized solar and/or electrical system? I'm guessing not everyone who does electrical upgrades to their rigs, to whatever extent, keeps that same RV forever and ever, til death do you part ;) Did you get your money's...