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The install docs say you can run multiple a/c branch circuits, and up to 4 PV input breakers. Total amps including the gateway 10A breaker is 90A. So I think you could add the string inverter input breaker, depending on the amps, and be fine as long as you're not exceeding the breaker rating in...

Why would you think you couldn’t have multiple solar breakers in your main panel? My Enphase M250 system is on two branches, each on their own breaker into my main panel. Just label all of the breakers so everyone knows they can backfeed. You really don’t want to share breakers in your subpanel.

I use Docker to run HA, plus all the other supporting services (including grott). Makes managing all the dependencies and configs simple.

For monitoring the Growatt MIN, you can monitor it in Home Assistant using grott and homeassistant-grott.

I think you're making a mistake trying to prove wrongdoing using weight for this dispute. You bought a 100AH battery, and it's not testing anywhere near that. That's the only relevant data point. Proving energy density weight for a given chemistry to Aliexpress is way too complicated. The...

So you're now only getting 5 kWh out of like 60? That's...not great.

It’s fine to want to learn, everyone starts off without specific knowledge. But this thread is a great example of how a lot of posters on forums solicit expert advice, get it, and push ahead ignoring most of the advice. Haste makes waste, and there’s only so much you can do to stop someone...

A car is easier to both steal and fence/strip for parts, and is frequently located right on the street. A 300 pound box mounted to the side of the house and/or bolted to a concrete pad, connected to a live inverter is not exactly a smash & grab target any more than an air conditioner condenser.

Man, this thread is so obnoxious. Not informative and every party comes off diminished, some a lot more than others, but still. The post reply button isn’t obligatory!

I agree that using their hardware in a supported configuration shouldn’t trigger the license transfer clause. If anyone else is using SA on a Pi with their DC input kit, it really seems like you should fuse the input downstream of the voltage converter to avoid cooking your board.

Indeedy. I have this on a Pi Zero 2. https://github.com/gadget78/inverter-homeassistant Edit: actually I've got some fixes for HA Energy Dashboards in my fork: https://github.com/shampeon/inverter-homeassistant And on the same board this for the JBD BMS: https://github.com/tgalarneau/bms And...

If they consider moving cards to a new Pi due to a catastrophic hardware failure a license transfer, that's incredibly unfriendly terms. I see that they say, "Pi hardware is incredibly reliable" as the rationale for the 1 license transfer clause. Uh, sure, but power supplies are not nearly as...

Your Orange Pi has either a microSD card or an eMMC storage device, and that's what Solar Assistant was installed on. If it was on a microSD card, you can just pull it and install into a new Orange Pi 3 LTS. But if it was on the eMMC you'll need a new image. I would not connect any device...

You are talking about two different things. The solar input and the required battery. 2 24v batteries in parallel is still 24v with double the amps. You would need 4 12v batteries in series to make 48v. Or 2 24v batteries in series. For the solar input, you will need panels that output more...

Electrolytic capacitors have a limited service life. Good quality radial capacitors from Nichicon e.g. are rated for 20,000-30,000 hours. Sounds like you hit that limit on your inverter. Look on Mouser or DigiKey and you’ll find the service life rating for the caps. I’m surprised Aims doesn’t...

Just set up grott on a Docker container on my home server in proxy mode. MIN-12000TL-XH and ARO battery. It works well, though I haven't gotten it working with Home Assistant yet.

Don't purchase that Dobelay battery on Amazon. There's some sort of fraud going on. The FedEx tracking number doesn't show the same tracking details, so I'm not totally sure what's going on, but I'm going to file a dispute with my credit card. The package was redirected to a different address...

Mostly because it's unnecessary, if it's not going to be used from button-up until spring. If people are regularly coming to the cabin throughout the winter, then maybe it makes some sense to leave it active so the battery is always full. Otherwise, it's just on but idle, or discharging to heat...

With the breaker off, and battery at 80% SOC it will drop very slowly over the winter months. If someone shows up in winter, they turn the breaker on and now you can use the battery, but can't charge it until the battery gets above freezing. There's enough capacity to start the internal heaters...

Yeah, that's too bad. The out-the-door price is still good for a 100AH battery without LTP, but I wonder how many people are going to get burned by this.

I ordered one of the Dobelay 12v 100AH batteries for a small system for my backyard lights. I probably won't ever really need low-temp protection given I live in the Bay Area, but it'd be good to know if LTP is in there or not.

Correct. Though the AIO units we're talking about here have battery settings for LFP, so it won't float. So you can leave the PV connected and let the SCC in the inverter manage the battery SOC. Correct. Only matters if you go through an extended period of no PV current (snow covered panels...

LV-3048MK and the other LV models, but afaik all their models continue to allow the SCC to operate, and will charge the battery when on grid power if you have the settings correctly configured for that priority. The switch is only for the inverter circuit.

MPP Solar units also will charge with the inverter switch off. Pretty sure Will’s setup has a big T class fuse from his busbar to the inverter.

LiFePo4 is a lot safer than LiIon or LiPolymer, and doesn't require maintenance like FLA batteries. The overall TCO of LiFePo4 is better than FLA as they have more cycles and don't degrade as much, but it's more up-front cost. Server rack batteries are a better package for homes since they have...

Yeah, they can be stored in sub-freezing temperatures. They can even be discharged sub-freezing. You just can't charge them below freezing.

There's two different things for low-temp LFP batteries. One is low-temperature charging cutoff. The BMS has a temperature sensor and stops charging if the temp goes below freezing. For your situation, you need low-temp cutoff in your battery. The other is low temp heating. This is in addition...

Then you could use the generator as the AC input for grid-assist inverters. E.g. on an MPP Solar LV 1012 inverter, the inverter can be set to use solar first to charge the batteries, then "grid" (i.e. the generator). This thread is about something similar to what you're trying to do.

I think the cheapest, simplest option is an interlock on a small electrical panel, or a manual transfer switch, with a big label that says "Solar <- -> Generator" or whatever. Then you can use any inexpensive off-grid inverter (you don't need a generator input like the Magnum) and it's just a...

The D1 Mini (and any D1 Mini clone) is ESP8266-based. The D32 is an ESP32 board.

The code is written for the ESP32, so the D1 Mini won't work (it's an ESP8266-based board).

Look at the Heliene Installation Guide. They have load ratings for the different panels based on the mounting hole distance.

It's pretty likely they're not labeling the product correctly in Amazon so they can ship the battery standard non-freight. So don't be surprised if your battery gets manhandled, without even touching on the potential dangers of shipping high amp batteries through regular channels.

Seems like a junction box, then switching to Armorlite or equivalent would be the right way to handle this, but I'm not a sparky.

Uh, Romex in conduit is against code.