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For sale is a new, unused Redodo 12.8V 50Ah LiFePO4 battery. I bought it earlier this month and decided to go a different direction with the project. The box has been opened but battery never used. Includes manual and all supplied hardware (screws, insulating caps). Local SoCal buyer preferred. $180

Decided to go with a Redodo 12V 50Ah for $199. Now looking for a compact case to install everything.

Thanks, according to Renogy’s site and manual, they advise against using the optional temp sensor with a lithium battery. I have their DCC1212-20. I highly doubt I’ll attempt to charge the battery at/below freezing temp. I’m most concerned about finding a dependable battery that will sit unused...

The Weize is a hell of a deal. Just watched Will’s teardown. Only negative for me is its 29lb weight, double that of a 50Ah. I’d like to keep this project smaller but at $350/100Ah and well built, that’s a hard deal to pass…

Good point about the Relion cost. For that much might as well go with the SOK. However a ~50Ah battery is easily 10 pounds lighter than a 100Ah

I’d like to build a small power bank with multiple 12V dc outputs (kinda like a DIY Dometic PLB40) for powering a car fridge, hotlogic food heater, etc. Battery will primarily be charged by a Renogy dc-dc charger while driving which I already own. Looking for recommendation of a 12V 50Ah...

Parallel panels is good if some get shaded during the day. Series will reach the turn-on threshold voltage of the solar charge controller sooner and subsequently start charging the batteries earlier.

Notice the jumpers across the pack between #1 & #5

Looks great! Where are you at 9300 feet?

Tesla is under the Energy Storage Systems category, pages 17-18.

Tesla Powerwall is 13.5kWh each, making 54kWh storage from 4. I too was concerned about the fire potential, did a search, and couldn’t find any news stories at the time (late 2019) about a house fire started by a Powerwall. So I went for it and have been happy ever since.

My Powerwall has been working flawlessly for 3 years. Their app is informative to monitor generation and usage. If you go the Tesla route, with the money you save, You may want to consider adding a Generac generator to the system. There unfortunately will be another fire someday causing an...

Sure, utilities are entitled to make a profit, but unlike banks, there are government mandates and deadlines for renewables. To help achieve this, I would think it’s in their interest to encourage household solar (so the homeowner makes the investment instead of them) and manage the...

The clean power you provided them is power they didn’t have to buy from a potentially dirty source or make the investment into a clean source as you did. Is your investment not providing any extra value?

Exactly! I wrote the check for my system - no one else did. What’s not fair to provide them excess clean energy during the day and get credited at the same rate as purchased at a later time?

“Net energy metering is effectively funded by ratepayers that do not have solar, and the tab makes up about 10% to 20% of the average customer’s monthly bill” This is BS. I buy plenty of grid electricity outside of summer. My winter production on a sunny day is 1/4 that of summer. They’re just...

Yes, SGIP. What’s on their list now?

This sounds like an honor system similar to the CPUC’s incentives for adding battery storage to solar.

Until they come with a 10+ year parts & labor warranty, they seem like a complex solution to a problem while there are proven quiet & reliable, albeit less efficient, products on the market. I don’t need any more headaches.

I question the real environmental footprint of any high efficiency device if it breaks and needs repair. Replacement parts have carbon footprints too, requiring energy and resources to be made. And then there’s the broken parts off to the landfill…

Yes I believe so, either the grid or a battery-inverter.

Conducted some measurements of my home 60Hz AC a few years ago, measuring with an Audio Precision across an unloaded 120:12V step-down transformer: Grid only: 1.9% THD+N Solar only (Enphase microinverters): 2.6% THD+N Powerwall only: 3% THD+N Was surprised to see the grid being the lowest.

Looks great! Isn’t 90F a bit warm for a pool?

If you’re planning to mostly run 12V devices, why have a 48V system with 2 DC-DC converters and their associated losses?

Carbon fiber and plastic We have an all-electric i3 too and love it in SoCal. We get 4.5mi/kWh, it’s quick and very maneuverable, and can hold a lot. It feels a bit like a Tardis that way.

No, I was asking Off Gridin’ It

I’m referring to the OP of the RV. Upon closer inspection there appears to be 10 panels with each panel appears to have 2 PV cell arrays, so 10 400W panels?

There’s 20 panels in the photos so how does that work?

@Off Gridin' It How did you wire the panels? I’m guessing some series-parallel combination

I would either provide sufficient 120V outlets for typical everyday usage or just offer USB power to charge phones, etc.

Be sure to research your county’s rules for short term rentals. In some counties, they have very different requirements & permits between traditional dwelling units and alternative shelters (yurts, trailers, etc) and can levy hefty fines if found operating without a permit

What type of mpg do you get?

True, particularly if one already owns 12V devices. If starting from scratch…

@mikefitz I like all the components you are suggesting, but why would you prefer 12V to 24V for this application?

My brother has Kong coolers and swore by them. I said try a Dometic fridge and he too has been hooked ever since and bought 2! 24V has the advantage of smaller, more flexible wires which you’ll appreciate when it comes time to do the install. I also noticed there are compact 0.5-1L 24V kettles...