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Can't you achieve the same goal by pushing the data to HomeAssistant via MQTT ? I know it's also possible to change inverter parameters via the MQTT interface.

Let me guess what happend: Your Lifepo4 ground was connected to chassis ground, just like your starter battery, right? I blew up a CC converter because of this. Only to find out that the negative MUST go through the converter, because there is a shunt resistor on the negative side, which gives...

I don't think you need a boost converter. You should check to see what voltage your alternator outputs. Also, these boost converters will not stop charging your Lifepo4, so basically it will float charge the battery with the voltage you set. This is not healthy for Lifepo4 batteries and will...

You paid alot for those Victron SCCs, make good use of them: If you have "smart" BMSs with some kind of communication, you should be able to hook up communication to the SCCs. This will allow the BMS to throttle down charging current, when a certain SOC is reached, for example. Look up DVCC and...

I have a small 1.3kwp array, so not much choices... Maximum PV voltage (VOC) is around 85v, inverter max is 145v. I prefer these lower voltage inverters for safety, as some of the higher voltage ones have a known issue of having AC on the PV lines. Quite a few posts on the forum about this...

I thought it wasn't a thing until Lifepo4 batteries came around, having low internal resistance and a high discharge capability. Of course Lifepo4 and BMS go together.

Yes, you should have an MCB BEFORE the SPD. That's because the SPD will by design short the line to ground, should a high enough voltage spike occur. The SPD itself could melt, same for the wires. An MCB will protect from this, should the SPD short or heat up.

I think the inverter does care - won't that high inrush damage the capacitors, or at least shorten thier lifespan?

Thanks. I've seen documentation regarding battery voltage calibration on some inverters, but nothing on PV amperage. I guess I'll have to live with it then...

Hello. I recently got to connecting my PV to my MUST 3kw 24v AIO (PH18-Plus). I have noticed that it's under-reporting PV amps, sometimes as much as 1.5 amps. Overall PV wattage reported also seems to have about 100w missing. How I checked this: 1. Using SolarAssistant, looking at PV amps...

Since when does Ford use LFP ?

Pass-through means when loads are powered from the grid, not the battery. Depending on your inverter settings, it can be in this mode for various reasons.

After looking at the datasheet, it seems like the actual AC-DC inverter (bidirectional) is limited to 3kw. This means that it can discharge or charge the batteries at a maximum of 3kw. The 6kw rating seems to be for AC pass-through only.

So you might have some inductive currents showing up on the PV line. Your utility input isn't grounded either? If not, I would definitely ground the inverter to a dedicated ground/earth rod. See if it helps.

I would start with opening them up yourself. Have a look inside, see if you can identify any clear component failures. It might be as simple as replacing a component (capacitor, MOSFET etc...)

Is your inverter grounded?

I started testing with the TYCO contactor and the 24v time-delay relay. I ended up choosing program P-28 on the relay: That way as soon as it's powered up, it will wait the delay and then power up my contactor. I still haven't setup the power resistor for pre-charging, but this will be...

One important thing you should note when using these DIN rail SPDs (whether DC or AC): They always need to come AFTER an MCB! As they will (by design) short to ground (via the MOV, when high voltage is applied), they will in fact heat up. I recall a post here on the forum where an entire...

Very strange, as these are intended for automotive use. They should be able to handle alternator charging. Maybe it was excessive heat?

The challenge I think is finding a solar panel small enough to fit the bike, but with high enough voltage to be able to charge the 48v battery. You could DIY yourself a small panel out of many miniature cells (typically a single solar cell will output 0.6v, current varies depending on the size...

Hz...

No, it won't work... The microinverters will up the voltage to try to "pump" as much power out from the PV, but this will make the off-grid inverter blow up, as the current has nowhere to go... This is unless you have a constant load more than the microinverters can produce. But you can't really...

Stupid idea... Not only the heat, but now your roof needs to accommodate more weight. Not sure if this is reasonable for most home residential roofs.

Good question... All I know is that my JKs will jump to 100% SOC if cell OVP is reached, or to 0% SOC when cell UVP is reached. What happens in between? I don't really know, but would also like to find out.

Well I did an experiment this morning: Connected each of the 455w panels and the 400w array to the SUNWIN 600W optimisers. They are pretty simple in that they don't have communications or monitoring, but it seems they do the job (how well, I don't really know, I would like your opinion). The 3...

I wouldn't trust the relay for 100a DC, nor the terminals... I just received my Tyco contactor and the 24v time delay relays today. The Tyco is for 12-24v (coil voltage) and has a built in economizer (a little PCB, which reduces coil current after initial power up). This is the one...

For sure... Yes, as I mentioned, test each cell first, then build your battery pack to whatever you need (12v,24v,48v etc...).

Roof mounted batteries? I would say that the excessive heat would kill them pretty fast. Calendar aging and excessive heat are two of known Lifepo4 killers, sometimes more than cycle life. But, I guess you could take them apart, test each cell (use an EBC-A20 or a DL24 tester) and salvage the...

Option A is the way to go. That way current flows evenly across all batteries. With option B, the batteries with the main positive and negative leads might be the ones handling most of the current.

I think the problem with the first video is incorrect wiring (he mentioned it also). DC breakers should have arc chutes in them, but in polarized (polarity sensitive) these are only on one side, including magnets to pull the arc into the chute. When you run them the wrong way, the arc isn't...

I have a 12v Xijia (CNSPOWER) 1500w inverter, and recently a 24v 1800w FCHAO inverter. Both are used in DIY solar generators. Both brands were reviewed by Andy (off-grid-garage.com), although different voltages. In general I can say that both of these Chinese brands are fairly reasonable. I...

The SUNWIN optimisers I was looking at don't need any keep-alive transmitters. They are also fairly cheap (around 50$ each). I guess I could get just buy 3 and experiment. Not much info on them online (at least not in English), but the specs look good to me. They don't have any monitoring...

Great! I guess I'll have to do some testing, to make sure theory meets reality. I'll probably try with and without diodes and compare. Since my PV is currently grid-tied via Deye microinverter (with monitoring), I know what to expect in regards to peak production and daily production...

Grounding to the hand truck has basically no effect. So you have two issues here: 1. No real ground 2. No N-G bonding (floating Neutral) Sometimes people do an N-G bond on mobile inverters, just so that some appliances will work (mainly EV chargers, which check the voltage between Ground and...

Minimum MPPT is 30v. Vmp STC is 41v for the 455w panels. Vmp STC for the 100w panels is 18v each. So maybe I should put the 4x100w in series (giving 72v) and then the two 455w in series (82v) and then parallel ? Sounds a bit counter-intuitive having a 910w string in parallel with a 400w...