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I generally agree with the 2000 watt inverter suggestions, but I also think you could get by with a 1500 watt. I think you have greatly overestimated your loads. Your "critical load", instead of 864 watt hours per day, might be closer to 250. Link 2 phones 10 watt hours 2 tablets 60 watt...

Can't help you, but would like to ask why you are switching. I just bought a 2812, having had great success with Magnum inverters for many years. But I haven't installed the new one yet. Wondering if their quality has declined over the years?

Very nice! I fully appreciate your work.

Look at this product for keeping the truck battery charged: http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html

There is no upper limit.

Anderson Powerpole

This might be what you are looking for: AMP-L Starting Battery Maintainer

Sterling Power has a new 12 volt, 120 amp (input) model. Not yet available in the USA but can be ordered from UK. https://sterling-power.com/

Here are some thoughts on 12 volts versus 24 volts. For any given amount of power (watts) the amperage will increase as the voltage decreases. For example, 240 watts at 12 volts is 20 amps, but 240 watts at 24 volts is just 10 amps. This is important because electrical wire is rated with...

pics

Yes, the shock hazard from 17 volts is safer than from 51 volts. Wire them in parallel. Do it for the children!

A single 100 amp hour 12 volt battery has about 1200 watt-hours of energy, so each one is about what you need to refill two of your 500 amp hour bike batteries. You could use a single 400 watt solar panel to charge your 100 ah battery during the day, and then use your battery+inverter to charge...

Call me uneducated, but it sure looks to me like they already thought about it and implemented it, and maybe there is no need to implement it again.

A picture is worth a thousand words: https://www.bluesea.com/products/5121/Class_T_Fuse_-_400_Amp

Who invented this 1.25 factor for "headroom?" Seems excessive if rules regarding ampacity and voltage dropped are properly observed. Throw out that 1.25 "adjustment" and the number is 341 which works with 4/0 cable and 400 amp Class T inverter fuse.

The battery change represents zero savings from changing voltages. Comparable batteries at comparable prices are available in 12 volt configuration. The solar charge controller will save some number of $100 as will the smaller pieces of short cabling. Again, lucky to squeeze out a thousand...

You cannot build a 24 volt system that is comparable to a $10k 12 volt system for $3500. You might save a couple of hundred on the solar charge controller, and possibly as much on wiring, breakers and buss bars, but you will not save $6500. You would be doing good to save $1000.

It's good for the economy.

I have no idea about charging from the Tesla. As far as the other stuff, here is the general idea: 1. Determine what you want your electrical system to do. 2. Calculate how much electricity it will take to do that. 3. Multiply that number by the number of days you want to be able to do it...

And you might as well tell us about your solar. How many watts? What charge controller?

Also, please explain how you are currently charging from the tow vehicle.

More information please. What is the two vehicle?

If a job is worth doing, it is worth doing right.

No, you do not need 12 volt panels. You do not want 12 volt panels. With lots of room, you want large panels like you describe. On top of that, you will probably want to connect them in series. The final voltage into your camper could be 60 volts, or even more. That current will go into an mppt...

I would size the BMS to the battery specifications. That way, you get maximum performance from your battery. Then, you can size your inverter such that it does not exceed the capabilities of your battery.

If I understand both you and the OP correctly, what you describe is the OPPOSITE of what the OP wants. It seems like what you describe is that when connected to shore power the inverter shore power and only when not connected uses battery power. I believe the OP wants the inverter to use...

That seems like a pretty good solution. You could install heating pads, but if it is only for a few days a year, is it really worth the cost and effort? If your pads are used in an insulated box, they should be effective no matter where you put them. They would not be in direct contact with the...

If you keep your RV heated, you might consider using a small computer type of fan to continuously blow the warm air directly into the battery compartment (when needed).

Why not?

Yes, the terminals are welded and yes, the User Manual states NO VIBRATION.

Scroll down and click on documents. You will find this breaker rated at 5000 cycles.

Here's just one. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/klixon7277.php

The battery breaker would not be considered "high use."

Most breakers are rated for thousands of cycles. You should be able to look up the number for any breaker.