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Must be tough for doctors to glean the science from the propaganda

Not being able to take advantage of any credits or rebates, from a laundry list of reasons, means poor customers pay all of an inflated price. Fifteen years ago there was a 25% tax credit on Energy Star appliances. I was interested in a $1100 fridge. When the tax deduction expired that fridge...

Trick is finding one locally. Shipping is a killer. I found two 360w ($350) at a local installer that were rejected by a customer. They were face down on top of pallets and water had collected in them. After cleaning off the water stains they were fine.

I'm not going to disconnect it to find out. Like my first Samsung microwave. In 85 it was "cheap Korean junk". Still works good. Probably better than their new stuff.

Issue is low temperature battery protection without damaging SCC. My "cheapest of the chinese version" SCC has worked flawlessly.

Links says it's automatic. 12v works. Able to disable? Doubt it.

60A version. I see no low temperature settings esmart 3 60a

I'm thinking a low temp PV panel cut off is the route to go. There must be a reason my SCC manual states "connect battery first, disconnect battery last" in bold type, separate paragraph, many times. Even if it's only so the SCC can determine battery voltage.

Non-smart? If available, not insistent. Low temp? Having second thought. If bms cuts battery off what would that do to the SCC?

bare bones bms

It's not the only requirement, just rarest. Now I'm questioning if it's the correct route.

That would address my concern of the battery disconnect warning of the mppt charge controller.

Why is it so hard to find a bms with low temperature protection when, for half of us, it's mandatory? It's not trivial. In Wisconsin temperatures never get above 32°F (0°C) for months every year. One, not very cold, night destroying thousand of dollars is insane.

Is there an abbreviation for low temperature protection that I'm missing?

Studying a bare bones 12v lifepo4 from scratch. Maybe a 4 cell, 200 amp hour, 150amp load, freeze protection and stupid (not smart). AliExpress must list 5000 bms's. I like the idea of scratch build. Fixable and cheaper. Does anyone know a bare bones bms that would work? Sort of like what come...

Have a 60a Esmart3 (solar charge controller) charging lead for a year now. Fine. It says good for any battery profile using their wifi dongle or a RS485 serial bus. Could it be as simple as buying any RS485-usb cable and plugging it in the laptop? Would like to sort this out before investing in...

Paralleled strings of panels have always scared me. Worse than my dc welder, on lower settings, pumping out 16000°F. Even it go's to zero 120 times, or high freq, per second.

Did that intentionally with a marine battery switch and inverter half way between the starter and house batteries. That way any short term, large inverter drain can be shared by two feed wires, two battery banks or even with the engine running. Not to mention jumping would be a breeze.

Spelling out abbreviations, at least once, is polite.

Will: All in one

type-o-ed all in one

Seriously good idea. Haven't used a dryer since the repair would cost $500. Also need plans for those worried about water shortage, pollution and disease.

It's inevitable but figuring annually, instead of the two worst months, it's not that bad. Maybe check if there's time of day rates you could take advantage of. Now your electricity is pretty expensive.

Looks legit. A PV, micro grid tie inverter and stand. Available for 15 years, give or take. Pesky contracts, permits or costs weren't mentioned though. Devil's in the details. With grid tie your introducing a whole heap of bullies.

There are automatic transfer switches. It draws first from a solar-battery-inverter system before tapping the grid, without back feeding to the grid. Making sense financially for your aunt is doubtful unless you already own the solar-battery-inverter system. Will: automatic transfer switch

Larger panels are better... if you can get em. You might ask home system owners who installed theirs. Chances are the installer has a couple laying around. That's what I did. My panels were on the top of pallets, face down, when rained on. The home owner didn't want them.

I don't own one either. Hard to justify when used ten minutes every twenty years. I have been known to use a small scale, wrench and some math.

Think of US single phase as 240 volts. 120 volts of a wall outlet as half. Three phase is for industry or commercial using lots of power.

I'm no chest fridge expert but sounds reasonable. (720w-15%)/20 hours= 30.6w per hour. My dinky 12v fridge advertises 45w per hour.

Just checked... price gone up, well... maybe a little. Rumors tend to be exploited so you have to be willing to shop around. PV price survey

This guy gives a good run down about PV's on water. After a while you'll actually start to understand what he's saying. Well worth it. S2T

Heard bird droppings is a big problem. Left on will etch

The only gizmo I ever found that made any difference at all is $10 battery maintainers. Prevents sulfation in seldom used batteries. Extended my misc batteries from a couple years to over a decade. Might cost $2 per year to power. Prevents freezing too.

Saw a used AirSense 10 on Wausau Craigslist for $200. Research else where says battery capable. I understand you not wanting to fry a $1100 kit.

Perhaps some info about the cpap machine to avoid overbuying.