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In that case if you isolated your two power systems, you could do it, but if power is coming from the grid and is going to go to anything that is powered by the solar system you would need to comply with the syncing info above. IF you built in breakers so you could turn off the power provided...

another thread on this topic. that has answers to your questions. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/disimilar-sized-batteries-in-parallel.27523/

So I'm newer to this stuff, but I think you have most of it, however I do know you will probably need to have the power company upgrade/replace the electric meter box. If you didn't have batteries you would need a bi-directional meter. (This allows for excess power you generate to go back to the...

I purchased batteries from Liitokala 280ah. These are being installed in my rv. 1. I'm not sure if they are Lishen or Eve cells, so that would be question one. 2. I've read that having them upright is best but you can you orient them on their side (pic1), if so what are the estimated drawback...

So I replaced the wires with 10awg and put ring terminals on both ends, and at 3.4v it's up to 7.8A, if I have it at 3.6V it maxes at 10A CC. So sounds like the original cables were the problem.

So at the PS I see about a .03V drop when connected to the ps from the expected voltage. There's about a .3v drop at the battery.

Ya it's a 10A supply.

So just did some testing with my volt meter. At the connection on the PS (3.6V, 0A), at the end of the leads not connected to battery (3.6V, 0A), and at the connections with the leads connected to battery (3.3V, ~5A) I'm surprised the voltage at the leads with them on the battery doesn't show 3.6V?

If I up to 3.6V it pulls about 5A. Those terminals are full rings not the half ring ones you can take off without fully removing the nut. (idk if they are super high quality ones. they came in a kit with a bunch of different sized connectors red, blue, yellow...)

Ya the current on the PS is about 1.8A, when it's set to 3.4V. I get about 3.29V from the battery when the PS is disconnected. I read on here that you should run 3.4 wait for amps to drop to near 0 then progress up to 3.5 then 3.65 @GazzooI think my wires are 14ga

I put some terminal connectors on it and it's up to about 1.8amp, it's bounced around I think it was about 1.9 when I initially started.

I think someone mentioned here about using 10ga wire? Should I replace the entire wire, or just put lugs on the wire that came with it? (Yes, using alligator clamps) I got this power supply (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082HXVRNF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I have 16 280ah cells that I'm top balancing right now. All the cells but 1 started at 3.27v the other was 3.26. I purchased the power supply that is recommended on this site. They have been charging at 3.40v for about a day and a half now, and are now up to 3.29. The power supply shows it's...

I have to get the rest of my equipment to test it. I have 3750w of solar panels and now 13.44kwhr of batteries. My bms's are on the way. I'll be ordering the rest of the equipment this week. I'll be installing all of this on my RV.

LOL I received them on the July 7th. I ordered back on April 12th. But actually just received the last box about 1 minute ago. Had I not received the last box, what could I have done.

I ordered 16 3.2v 280AH cells from liitokala but only received 12. I was planning on building 2 24v batteries. Can I purchase 280ah cells from a us supplier and mix them in with these cells?