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Every time I've had his problem, I eventually found a bad crimp on the little balance cables.

There was a bit of a language barrier, so it's possible things got garbled in the conversation.

Good questions. They said they got three turns in when they retapped. I may use thread locking glue like you suggest on the stud. I would be interested in someone spot welding everything, but this machine shop didn't have that ability. I didn't contact Eve because I didn't think they would...

I believe they drilled it out with a drill press to open the hole. They said they were going to use the CNC for cutting the threads. I'm not sure how a CNC would help with that.

I took it to a local machine shop. They got the threaded rod out and retapped a few threads inside the hole. I've attached a few pictures for reference.

Good point. The place I had heard about is out of 304Ah batteries. Looks like I need to find a machinist in the Houston area.

These are 304s

That is my fall back. I believe I can get another cell locally, so my shipping time won't be so bad.

I actually have a torque wrench, I was just ignoring what it was telling me because it didn't feel like the nut was near the bottom of the post. I didn't really feel like I was putting much force on it when it broke, but it had clicked. Expensive learning opportunity.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm in the Houston area.

I notice you are in Texas. What area are you in? I'm in the Houston area.

Magnet does stick to it.

Here is a side view. The stud is not loose. I have tried grabbing it with plyers and turning counter clockwise and there was no movement.

Not yet. I'll try that.

So, I used too much torque on one of my welded studs on my Eve batteries. It broke off near the bottom. I've attached a picture. How do I fix this? Do I drill out the stud and tap a new larger thread in the terminal? I don't have much experience tapping threads. Would I be better off just buying...

I don't think so. If I find it is getting too hot, then I will probably add some fans to circulate the air. There are already some air ducts connecting the camper to that area to keep the pipes from freezing. Also, I want to make sure the batteries don't freeze, so being close to the water tanks...

I just posted my layout and schematic on the post about my build.

Here is a revised layout and schematic. I went a bit overboard with the #2 wire and breakers, since I had extra wire and 125a mega fuses.

Yes. They put the batteries toward the front of the camper, and that's where I'm going to put mine as well. I suspect things will ride better with the batteries in front of or as near as possible to the rear axle. My batteries aren't stacked, because I was worried about putting the batteries on...

Not having the tray is helpful for figuring out how to fit everything. Here is that post of a Cascade from the Facebook group.

Here are the photos here too.

I just bumped my original post with photos. My CAD drawings are at the office. I changed quite a bit from the original drawings on that post. I'll try to post those updated drawings next week. I ended up buying Hightec 215w panels, because they fit the space on my camper really well. I have...

Here are some progress photos. I still need to cleanup some things, but since my camper won't be here for another couple months, I'm not in a big hurry.

I don't have a ton to add except I'm building a 12v system with 16 eve 304s for the basement of a Mammoth. I'm pretty much done except the camper won't be here until June. Someone in the Host Campers Facebook group posted a build they did with eve batteries in a Cascade around a month ago. I...

Yep, that appears to have fixed it. I'll check again tomorrow morning, but everything was even a few minutes ago.

I think I found the problem. One of the little crimps was flaky. Sometimes it tested as a complete circuit and sometimes it didn't.

Okay, when I swap the BMS, I get the different voltages, so it must be my wiring. Here are some pictures.

I'll swap out the bms tonight and work on getting some pictures. Thanks for your help!

I have 4 - JBD 100Amp BMS all wired up in the same way and in parallel. However, one of my BMS reads the voltage on terminals 1 & 2 incorrectly (See attached screenshot). I have checked the voltage on the terminals, and they are all approximately the same (around 3.29v). I also disconnected the...

Compared to everything else, yes. But $40-60 and a week or so waiting for another fuse in the mail (if I can find one...) isn't something I want to do needlessly. If $40-60 for a fuse is cheap, then $80 for the BMS is cheap too. I guess it is all relative.

Thanks! Yeah, you are right, that if one pack shuts down (via bms or blown fuse) the other packs are pretty likely to shut down due to going over current. I guess by going to a 225 or 250A fuse, I probably eliminate the chance of blowing one of those fuses (which are expensive and hard to find)...

Thanks!

I'm not trying to argue with you about whether you did a good job on your design. Sorry if my message gave you that impression. I'm trying to get back to my question, which I don't think got answered. Which should be sized to trip first, the BMS or the Fuse?

It sounds like you are running at 48v. I'm running at 12v, so I have a higher likelihood of having higher currents. But in your example, if you had some random large DC load pulling 30amps while your inverter is pulling 80a, your bms would trip without a fuse blowing, right? It doesn't sound...

So, it sounds like I should let the BMS stop current before the fuse. My wires are sized large enough to handle more than 200A.