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Mine is lifepo4 32650 prebuilt packs so it’s easier than raw prismatic cells pack. I agree with Will, that without proper safety measures, a diy build can be dangerous no matter types of battery.

So far looks like prismatic DIY packs have caused several accidents and are quite dangerous. I wonder if cylindrical cells build had such accident. I have DIY cylindrical packs power wall at home and plan to use same for van when I have need.

It is LFP. As I said, there is no absolute correct voltage like you insisted, because a number of reasons. A bit of lower bulk voltage should NOT be the reason that it does NOT charge in the next day when battery voltage is below both bulk and float. The manual clearly doesn't explain every...

Have you found what parameter triggers resume solar bulk charging? I’m seeing same issue on my Growatt as reported in this thread. I never had this issue in winter because my solar was never able to fully charge battery before it deplete. The grid charging parameters are more intuitive and...

I don’t agree my bulk is too low. Someone may need higher setting because there battery internal resistance is higher. But with 55.5v bulk, my battery SOC reach 100% BEFORE the whole battery pack reach 55.5v to stop charge so it already overcharge a little bit by the time it stops at 55.5. And...

A related question to Growatt and battery charging control. If using a Growatt compatible battery (with BMS communication), is there any additional setting that controls charging more precisely, for example start charging when SOC drop below a value? I don't see that type of setting in Growatt...

Thanks for sharing your experience! I have the exact same issue and question with my Growatt 3000 48v ES single inverter recently. So basically, after the system reach CV, it may stop solar charging into the next day, unless battery voltage drops to some level, which does not appear to be...

Yes, Bluetooth bms is much more powerful than no smart ones because the ability to change parameters. And that help to reach balance much easier. Many of the non adjustable bms won’t balance until cell volt reach 3.6v. At 3.6v, cell capacity is near full so voltage will shoot up very quickly...

May I ask what voltage system do you use them for and what percentage of total capacity do you discharge/charge regularly?

Thanks for sharing your experience! I have a feeling that to smoothly run a 48v system up to 100amp discharge and full cycle will require all battery cells and modules fully consistent and synchronized. This mean all 16 cells have same volt, same SOC, same capacity, connected with same wire...

My Growatt 3000 48v system is having issue in inverter mode as well. My sound system receiver has been having humming noise and is sending out smoke and lots of heat today. I had to turn it off. These issues only happens when using power from Growatt in inverter mode, not AC bypass. I suspect...

I don’t think the total kWh battery capacity is any issue. One pack does have a little lower capacity so I do not push charging to limit. The battery ohms and AIO volt settings combined is the main issue. My settings have been conservative so it never tried to 100% charge. From AIO, I can tell...

Yes, I should have load picture earlier to explain this.

I plan to test a little more, but I’m ready to accept the high ohms and going to try some interesting improvement when my new battery order arrive.

What voltage, and did you use battery hookup capacitor they sold out awhile ago? I’m very curious about you setup. I’m thinking of building and paralleling 48v headway to solve the issue. My concern of supercapacitor is that it’s lower capacity compared to battery, so it only handles spike of a...

Ok, here is my 16s battery hookup 100ah system. The BMS was bought from aliexpress. Total cost around $1000. At 5kwh, this is hard to beat.

Yes there are many 48 v inverters. No, there are not many AIO 48 v systems. I think OP is complaining more about AIO selections.

No, this battery pack is rated for 100amps so my 16s system should have 100amps max capacity on paper. From BMS real time data, I have been trying to tell if there is any cell that sags more than others. If that happen, it means that connection is worst than others, correct? But so far I haven't...

Even with above issues, I still think Battery hookup's $220 4 packs product is very good value. Nothing is perfect especially in this newer domain. I'm eager to try some thing to improve this.

I checked between 1st packs + and 16th packs - connectors, so there should be not other components in between. And I checked 1st packs + and BMS - connectors as well. It is 1 C rating of 100amps. Battery hookup has pulled off this listing. The pack is made of 20 32700 3.2 cells of 5ah each.

I checked between 1st packs + and 16th packs - connectors, so there should be not other components in between. And I checked 1st packs + and BMS - connectors as well. It is 1 C rating of 100amps. But so far I haven't tried to reach that. I just don't want risk of a power outage of my whole...

There was no ohms or curves of discharge amps / volt / capacity on Battery hookup website about this custom built battery pack. They do state that this pack is rated for 1C which is 100amp max continuous discharge. But if 1C would cause several voltage of drops out of 52volt build, it is not...

I did test at 1kw draw and believe the drop is proportional to discharge amps. Checking BMS real time voltage and amps data proves that. I don't have a battery ohms tester, although this calculated ohms should be close, unless battery resistance heavily depend on amps discharge? There is one...

This worries me since I don't have any backup battery pack in case part of my battery fail in the future. Maybe they just sold out and will have more from boat?

BTW, I changed "problem" to be "limitation" in the title since many people do not agree this is a problem.

Thanks for asking! No, my battery were brand new and used for only half year on a daily charge/discharge frequency. This issue seem to be there always, so not likely due to drop of capacity, which is good. Capacity wise, it is around 5kwh in total. Although I noticed one of the pack is slightly...

I connected all 16 packs in series without adding anything in between, not even a busbar, then there is BMS, and then 4awg wire to AIO. I didn't alter any connectors. Do you know what prep can help of these battery's crimped connectors?

Regarding counter drift, maybe a smarter design would be able to auto-calibrate once in a while, based on voltage under 0 load. For most people, AIO + Lifepo4 battery is for Rv trip or backup purpose, so battery only need to be cycled once per month or year. Using voltage is an easy way to...

It is my measurement: 1 volt / 20 amps -> 0.05 ohms Conclusion so far is that my 16 battery modules have large ohms so it's causing the system not able to perform full watt capacity as originally designed. Lithium battery and AIO system are still far from being a mature product to replace 24 by...

Thanks for advice of Schneider, I will look into it later. I'm curious what batteries people have been using and it sounds like your battery has much lower ohms than mine.

My settings are like this: 49.6v batt -> grid 54.5v grid -> batt I have been using my system as primary power source of my household, cycle once per day, grid as a backup to fill battery at cheap night hours. My battery is sized at 5kwh to be enough for 1 full cycle per day. I could have...

I guess maybe my goal is somehow different than many here. I just want to charge battery either from free solar or cheap night-hour grid power, and hope the system can be automated based on accurate battery capacity. By using shunt capacity, it would be more accurate to not...

By the way, I have been running/tuning my system at home for half year. So all observations and conclusions are based on something. I said "Common" because I have checked many products manual and settings on the market, so far I have not seen any system that is based on an shunt/battery...

Mine is Growatt 3kw 48v 120v system with 5kwh battery. Under 1kw load, battery voltage drop 1 volt. You can read details in my following post: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/battery-voltage-drop-and-internal-resistance-issues.34492/

Unless voltage is measured when amps is zero or the battery system has zero ohms, otherwise there will be voltage drop/raise due to amps out/in, and it is not accurate indicator of battery capacity.