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I got mine 2 years ago. Seems most things are about 20% more expensive these days :confused:

The link in the post above https://diysolarforum.com/threads/jk-jikong-rs485-interface-wiring.35071/post-798136

Yeah, top Orion is a 24V to 12V and feeds the smaller fuse box. That's pretty much just used for the MaxxAir fan tbh. Fridge, lights, pumps, diesel heater, USB chargers, 4G router are all running off the 24V system.

The setup has be great in UK, France, Germany Poland. The 7kWh battery lasted nearly 2 weeks Easter 2022 with only 300W of solar and 1 hours worth of driving per day (DC-DC charger) but it was exceptionally sunny! It is so much better with 600W. Can see most of the setup here before it was...

Good point. I only turn on my inverter for cooking when I'm away.

I think the dedicated RV fridges might handle the environment/vibrations in the van better but you'll probably be fine. If you've got the space go for it. I needed a fairly small one. My van is fairly big but there's 3 of us in there when we travel. I put 5cm of PIR insulation around the fridge...

You don't have the heater port or just the cable? My BMS definitely has the socket attached but I think I've been sold the version with the heater circuit. I've found the cable, it's a JST - GH 1.25mm 7 pin Plug. I've ordered a connector off eBay and will give it a go with my BMS anyway...

It states it has the heater function on the specs but I'll check the part code. Thanks!

Does anyone know where to get the cable that connects to the heater port? There wasn't one in the box and can't find it on AliExpress.

I've got a Dometic CRX50, it works on 12 or 24V

That's great that it's available straight from the terminal. I'm looking at getting JK-B2A8S20P but definitely need RS485. I assume it doesn't come with a cable to connect to the RS485 terminal? Would you mind letting me know when type of connector it is please?

If you've not bought it yet I'd seriously consider going 24V. I've pretty much got all the things you listed. The cabling is so much better. I have fridge, LED light strips, USB chargers, diesel heater, water pumps, water heater, 4G Wi-Fi router; all running of native 24V The only thing...

24V is superior in every way in an RV application tbh. The cabling for a 3kW load at 12V is insane.

Version 1024 and the latest APK 1026 both run on Android 12. Everything seems to work fine on 1026. The battery capacity read 2% but I applied the default settings back for the chemistry and it worked again. There's a button at the top with all the defaults which is pretty handy.

Hmm, I'm on 1024 from the Play Store, I'll see if I can find 1026. Thanks.

This is just in reference to the Android version.

It was my understanding that, although float isn't required for the battery chemistry, the float time is handy for giving the BMS some time to balance the cells.

I've had this app on my phone for a couple of years. Just been notified that it might be dodgy.

I went the same way too. I think it's the best way if you have the full Victron setup.

I've seen that one before but it's a pretty big wind brake to have on your roof. This guy is pretty good at fabricating stuff and he's been working on tilting solar that is super low profile. https://www.youtube.com/c/ladiandmargaret The work in progress vid was up a last week, I think the vid...

I'd be weary of not having the batteries on the floor as in number 1). I'm using 8S 280Ah, that's already >40kg. I know it looks neat but when you're driving along, it seems like it's gonna be huge force applied to the structure when you go over bad bumps in the road.

Yeah, it's a great platform. The work they're doing with Node RED looks really interesting too. I've got my Daly BMS connected to the Cerbo via RS485/USB and Venos OS is showing some of the details from it. Pretty cool how flexible it is.

Great explanation, I am surprised Victron has never taken advantage of the Bluetooth on the Cerbo/CCGX to connect to the devices that only support Bluetooth for communication. I guess the vehicle systems is still kind of an ancillary business for them though and that's mainly where the DC-DC...

That guy makes some great videos but even he is guilty of it before. WTF is this!? o_O I know it's gonna have a cover on the fuse but they're so close. It's just relying on the 750A fuse blowing but I think that would still make a mess and massive spark if something bridged that. There's...

Looks so good dude. Like how you've covered all the positive connections. It's crazy how close some people but +ve and -ve busbars, always makes me wince a bit. I wasn't going to bother with a battery protect because the BMS can basically do the same thing. I guess it's good to have separate...

Looking sick dude! :cool:

I think having some struts that connect battery boxes to the floor to hold some of the weight would be a good call. Going over pot holes and bumps in the road would be a big shock load.

There's a 300A right next to the battery for the 50mm² cable. Just using a small fuse box to split off the connection to the Multiplus, the DC-DC/SCC and other 24V loads near the equipment. (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313106871939) The fuse used for the Multiplus there is another Mega fuse but...

I'm using 50mm² cable between the battery and the 24/3000, it's probably overkill but wanted to reduce the losses as much as possible. Would possibly be using the full 3000VA for short periods of time.

I'm using a Multiplus II 24/3000. I have a 8S 280Ah LiFePO4 battery with a 120A Daly BMS. I'm still converting the van but I've built the battery. I was going to run everything through the BMS apart the Multiplus which will be connected straight to the battery, well the Shunt but you get the...

You can't guarantee that voltage on the output will match precisely and hence share the load 50-50 so you need to add a bit of wiggle room. I would spec that 2 40A convertors would give you 60-70A of usable power.

FYI, if you're going full Victron with the Cerbo or RaspberryPi with Venus OS installed for managing the system there's a driver available that, I think, should work with those BMS's https://github.com/Louisvdw/dbus-serialbattery

Nice, looks neat! Are you gonna insulate the wheel arch tho? Doesn't look like there's much room left. Even if the climate doesn't need insulation adding something to the arch will help with road noise while driving. I'm using 8 280Ah cells so I figured having them on the floor would be best...

Cool, you made up for the reduced strength by putting in a lot of pocket holes I guess

Looks great, found what looks like the same box in the UK. Tempted to copy you. https://www.diy.com/departments/stanley-fatmax-28-structural-foam-plastic-toolbox/262179_BQ.prd