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I saw 65amps going into my battery with the same unit yesterday . Set it for 80, and you’re good. I have 5000W of solar on the one inverter.

Although vaxxed and boosted, I watched him for his worldwide monitoring, and UK rates as the US follows the UK rates by a month. I’ll give someone the benefit of the doubt, but too many, you’re out. I stopped watching him after this abstract ”review” because he’s chasing clicks and not...

Devices are usually designed to self discharge for the benefit of safety, so yes, more than a couple of minutes, the safe bet is to precharge with your resistor of choice.

Bad move by Campbell… he promotes vaccination , but is armchairing everything. in this case, an abstract is not peer reviewed science. I’m still waiting to see the data behind the abstract posted on an NIH website. Are you willing to bet your life on this guy...

just use an old incandescent lightbulb… it is just a resistor after all…

First, let me say, the product setup documentation is aweful for this product. This can’t hold a candle to Enphase monitoring with even 5 year old gateways. Overall, it seems that monitoring is an afterthought for Growatt, strangely for a good inverter with an affordable price point. After...

With AIO (Growatt, MPP), you don’t want to back feed into the main breaker, rather move your critical load to a new sub panel downstream of the AIO. All solar generated via the AIO will be used internally. Bad things will happen if you attempt to close the loop. Follow the electrical code...

Install a AiO, add a critical load panel downstream, and you’ll take back control of the Kw your system is producing. Size your battery to your 24hr consumption.

For tinkerers, this is the standard approach which I identify with as well. The industry at large has become a lot more cost effective. My suggestion for newcomers is prior to pulling the trigger, write up your wish list for your design and do an energy audit. In the end, you’ll spend less and...

Do you have Option 4 for energy saving? I think that might be your problem.

I agree with all your points as well. What I don’t understand is the need for additional complexities of installing transfer switches and the like.

People should commit to installing their AIOs to their locality’s respective electrical codes for safety. To be blunt, don’t half-@ss it, electricity is dangerous, My suggestion is that people install their AIOs as if it’s an enhancement to their main breaker by sizing their AIO purchase to...

I’m not sure why everyone is wiling to spend a lot of up front costs for an AIO, and then treating it as a generator. It’s better to consider it a UPS. On my 3 bedroom home, a 3000 watt generator has satisfied my needs during multi week power outages in New Hampshire. No fun filling jerry...

looks like you changed a lot of settings from default. I’d look at setting 14, and change setting 4.

Here’s a DC wire size calculator. Remember this is all about making sure the wire can carry the power from the panels to the Mppt charger efficiently. Note that watts are not part of the calculation, it’s all about the flow, distance and resistance. A good analog to this is water flow through...

I’d recommend reading the following to do your string calculations. You want to optimize your voltage to be compatible with your DC wire runs. You may see large losses running on 6AWG if you get these wrong. https://solardesignguide.com/calculating-string-size/

I guess you’re using it more as a battery backup solution. The investment in an AIO is not trivial and I see it as a better solution for self sufficient AC coupling in how the grid is going to change. My expectation for the AIO is to have the same uptime as the grid and be slowly adopted as a...

I’m interested to hear how big your wires are back from your combiner box?!? Any design room to bump up the voltage Instead of throwing away photons?

He’s just testing in that config. it works, but not safe for a long term configuration. Growatt specifically calls for mounting the units to concrete fiberboard for fire safety.

If Growatt and the like AIO are of interest, I’d recommend reading up on AC Coupling.

You really don’t need a transfer switch. If you commit to the plan, you add a more affordable subpanel to the wall next to your main panel and AIO, add an appropriate sized GFCI breaker to your main to feed your inverter, and relocate your critical loads to your new critical load panel. As your...

How’d you make out?

Your battery specs look wrong. I would look at your charging interval switching back to 48v seems low and your top end voltage seems low at 50.4. Looks like you’re not using the bottom end. One thing to consider is to configure it to the Llama spec (it is their spec) and see how it performs...

Works fine for me. I’d contact the reseller you purchased it from to review the settings. I’d also look into your settings for your battery type and thresholds. Remember that lead acid should only be discharged to 50% SOC to avoid damage.

What is being suggested is all doable. First, I‘d do some more research and an energy audit for your loads. Better to size a system that you can grow into as your pocketbook allows than having to continually upgrade. Some of the newer AIO inverters have brought the costs and ROI down...

I would suggest going 48v and inverter with high voltage string capability. If you have the time, consider purchasing LifePo cells via Alibaba to maximize your $/kw. Prior to purchase, I’d recommend you size out your loads by doing an energy audit. Even with a grid tie all in one, most people...

a 48V SPF 3kW LVM

I think you need to leverage the dry contactor relay (3amp max) on the bottom connected to a larger relay handling the neutral bonding duties when running on battery. I‘ve upgraded my Growatt‘s firmware (same as yoursj but option 24 doesn’t exist.

The big point is to always endure that your breaker is the weakest link. If your breaker is sized to the wire, you’re safe.

I just installed my first Growatt and found that it did have a floating neutral without a ground reference when running on battery. When on UTL mode, voltage on the neutral is zero because it’s bonded to your main panel. The dry contactor the Growatt has needs to be used to energize a neutral...