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I appreciate the comments, but I feel like we are not on the same page. Let me try to explain. This is for an RV gen start solution. I know there are MANY solutions possible, but the goal is to not replace working equipment. Many RVs already have a gen start built into them. The problem...

The EC-AGS+ is using the remote switch connection to start the generator….. but it only has a profile for lead acid, so lithium does not work. On same page in manual it shows the hard wired connection that is uses to do the voltage detection. This could be wired to a shunt that output a...

This feature could also be used to FIX the built in battery monitors in RVs. These simple 5 light indicators rely on voltage values to indicate SOC. They could be wired to the shunt port feature mentioned so they could continue to operate correctly.

Everybody with an RV that wasn’t designed for lithium… so 99% of them could use this feature.

All of Onan and Magnum gen start modules use battery voltage to determine when to start generator. Look up the Onan EC-AGS+.

Won’t work as the gen start won’t try to start if <9v is seen.

Was looking for a lower cost solution that doesn’t require a user to implement an entire eco system. A shunt is simple to add to a system… it just needs this added feature to be very valuable to a ton of users.

That solution will be beyond 99% of the users. Thats why I was suggesting Victron build it in as a feature of their shunt. It takes out the voltage difference problems between lead acid and lithium. It could be programmable via their app for voltage curve. It would be simple for any user to...

Most gen starts say they don’t support lithium. Probably because they don’t recognize the higher voltage (13+). I am not sure if the gen start sees NO voltage if it will try to start. Onan manual says it won’t start under 9 volts. I just bought an Onan ECS-AGS+ and it states it will not...

Here is an idea I hope Victron will read and implement. We need a new feature on a shunt. We need a shunt that can OUTPUT a voltage based on a state of charge. The problem is that most auto generator start systems don’t work with Lithium batteries. It’s not that a Lithium battery can’t...

Mixing panels to a single controller normally doesn’t work well. It would be better to have 2 separate controllers. Both controllers could be connected to same battery bank. Expect to get about 15 amps total from the two panels.

You can charge lead acid with AGM profile without harm. Charging AGM with lead acid profile might harm the AGM… I say might because these profiles are close. You want to prevent gassing in an AGM, so it takes a little less on the voltage side. You would definitely lower the charge amps per...

Lookup RV with Tito on Youtube. He has videos on strut channel mounting.

Use strut channel.

Is the refrigerator vent viable? I skipped the gland on my Rv and used vent. No holes in roof and fridge runs cables straight down under cabinets which made it easy to route cables to SCC in electrical compartment.

Also remember the monitor ONLY reads the battery bank it is attached to. On my RV there is the Chassis battery and the House batteries. These different batteries get automatically latched together by the BCC when the voltage hits 12.9v. The monitor only shows the House batteries because the...

Check your battery cable ends. I had an end that was corroded on the inside and it caused this same problem. I crimped on a new end and it works fine now.

I adjusted my tail current in my RV to 5a. That is because my RV pulls 3a with base loads.

Also be aware that you will probably on get about 70% of your solar panel rating. So about 280 watts for the 400 watts of panels. Tilting can help a little.

Exercise them a few times. I have the same problem with my trolling motor. It gets better and better after being cycled a few time… as it sits most of the year.

I agree with all points. I was simply stating if you are going to put in a CB as a disconnect, might as well make it also useful to protect wiring. I see the possibility where somebody adds additional panels without considering the existing wiring.

Yes, obviously it’s there as a disconnect, but there is nothing protecting those PV wires if too many panels are connected and the amps are too high. Choosing a CB lower than the wiring/mc4 limit will add another level of protection.

I recommend the circuit breaker be 25amps. I did that with mine because the 10ga wires going to panels, and the mc4 connectors are rated at 30 amps. So the 25 amp breaker should help protect them.

My RV has batteries in the step area. It would be difficult to move them to a compartment, so I would like to keep the batteries there. My step well is 26 x 8 x 11 (length x width x height). The largest battery I have found is a Lossigy 200ah that will fit. The problem I am running into is...

Hardware store will have box/plug to match your 30amp connection. You will want at least 400ah of batteries on solar system of you plan to run high loads. The MPPT charge controller and panels will keep the batteries charged. When running high loads the solar will go to high loads, if...

My RV has 2-GC2 batteries and a 12v starting battery. The battery control center will trip a relay at 13.2v to tie both sets of batteries together for charging. Then after charging when the batteries fall to 12.7v the relay will disengage the battery banks. So it seems it does work. Both...

I thought I read the extended battery is 131kWh with a range of about 300 miles. If you were able to put 2k of solar on the roof you MAY get about 10kWh per day. This would recharge enough for about 20 miles. I read a home 32a charger will give you about 13 miles of range per hour of charge...

I just replaced a battery cable that looked fine, but was internally corroded. I cut the wire in half and saw the corrosion. Made a new cable and all good now.

Actually the fuse at the battery is there to protect the wire. The circuit breaker is there as a disconnect, so it needs to be larger than the possible charge capability of the SCC so it doesn’t trip during normal charging. The circuit breaker for the panels is also a disconnect. However if...

You misunderstood. You should have a 25amp breaker between the solar panel wires and the SCC. This helps protect the wires (10 ga / 30a) and gives you a way to disconnect the solar panels. You never want the panels connected to SCC if the SCC is not connected to batteries. It can build up...

Doesn’t make sense. The wire you are using has a max rating of 30 amps. That’s what the Mc4 connectors are rated for. If you are running series you will only have about 5 or 6 amps at about 100 volts. I suggest a breaker around 25 amps used as a cutoff switch near the SCC. Be sure to fuse...

I think you missed a component. You are not charging directly from the generator. You have some sort of charger. Possibly it is a converter or part of your inverter. I doubt it is 120a either way. The batteries are not going to accept the level of charge you have. Dual 6v lead acids will...

And they say Lithiums are perfectly safe ;) are these things UL APPROVED?

Yep. Buddy should have bought 8 panels to do 4s2p. Because he didn’t it cost a lot more for the charge controller. Those large Victron get expensive… but they are nice.

Just finished one. 7x200w panels, Victron 250/100, 3500w inverter, 3x200ah lithiums. It will run an AC no problem. In retrospect having it on the RV would be more convenient. Just mount panels on strut channel… another project I just finished.