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I adopted a different strategy for showering...so this is no help whatsoever to your project, simply a different way of thinking about issue. I like to take long showers after a hike, but wish to keep power consumption and water use to an absolute minimum. I therefore use a recirculating pump in...

Exterior not aluminium. It is a converted minibus VW crafter....so thin sheet steel id imagine....typical van.

Moving RV. He envisions a short earth rod pounded in with a hammer and soaked with water. I dont fancy the idea myself, but everyone says that i must get the system 'checked out by a qualified electrician', but having done so, i'm now getting told frequently that he is wrong in his assertions...

Thanks for the replies folks....getting off topic when discussing boats, i feel. My comment on boats was only in relation to boondock's comment. I'd rather stay focussed on RV/motorhomes on insulated tyres. Thanks

@mikefitz Thanks mike...that was my thinking. Are you are qualified electrician by any chance? Could you please point me in the direction of the relevant section within the 18th edition regulations, so that i can argue my case with my 'electrical expert' friend. Thanks for your help.... this...

@Boondock Saint Thanks for your reply boondock saint... I thought i had all the grounding worked out, but a qualified electrician friend has thrown a spanner in the works by insisting that i need an earth rod for RCD protection. As regards boats, if they have a metal hull, would this not...

Thanks for all the replies folks. I have an electrician friend that insists i need an earth rod for the RCD to work.

In a rubber tyre insulated motorhome, is there any downside to attaching an earth rod to the chassis when parked up, when using 240v ac inverter power only(no grid tie or grid earthing) ? Is it safer with the earth rod connection or not?

In a motorhome setting with the vehicle insulated from 'true earth' by rubber tyres, does the RCD in a 240vac distrubution board still trip if either the live or neutral cables make contact with the van metal, when there is no true earth, only grounded to the vehicle chassis? On developing the...

https://www.copperbraid.co.uk/product/copper-braid-earth-strap-50-mm2-250-amps/

Some paramter settings i'm going with: Charging... Inv/charger: Bulk =3.4v(27.20v), Absorb(taper down) 1hour,Float = 3.35(26.80v) Solar charge controller: Bulk 3.4v, Absorb 10 minutes, Float 3.35v (i never want my cells to be sitting 'full'). Discharging... Inverter/charger: Cut off...

The pack compression is such, that the wood can move freely under the bottom of the cells.

Some of my setup modifications i have made are: Placed a layer of compressible insulation between the battery cell faces. Installed 6mm to 10mm aluminium flanged studs on cell terminals. (All connections torqued to 4Nm) Installed flexible braided busbars across cell terminals and from cell pack...

I'm getting the distinct impression, that as popularity rises with these cells(across several vendors), 'lesser quality' is being slipped into the mix. I might be wrong...just a feeling i'm getting, the more threads i read lately???

It beggars belief you got a hard time for trying to make improvements....just know, many folks on here appreciated your inputs.

If it were me, i would probably use a mix of solar collectors rather than all PV. The garage could have a frame added on its northern side and the whole length covered in an evacuated tube array(shouldn't be a massive weight), which could provide your year round domestic hot water. An air source...

If i was doing these cells again, it would be a straight choice between JBweld or conductive silver epoxy. Wouldn't consider anything else now.

Yeah, thats exactly what i did. As soon as i had the terminal face lightly sanded, i put a fine smear of noalox on right away, before doing anything else.

I'm coming rapidly to the same conclusion as fafrd as regards using belville washers....the accuracy of these things just doesn't seem to be there...you would think that a series stack of 100washers uncompressed would measure exactly 100 x the washer spec height...nope, not even close. This...

Thanks for the input HaldorEE....fafrd put me wise already. (y)

If one of three single stacks is compressed 6.9mm at 100% soc, what does it matter if it 'relaxes 2mm or 4mm, you are still in the range above the 30% defl value. Now, if it 'relaxes' 5mm, then you might drop down to between the 10 - 20 % values, but you will still be in some degree of...

yes, this is using the different double thickness washers and different deflection criteria to meet the spec.

When i looked at the datasheet, i read it somewhat differently from yourself. The thickness (30% SOC) figure at 71.5mm. The thickness (100% SOC) figure @ 72mm = 0.5mm difference due to state of charge. You also get +/- 1mm on the accuracy of the cell thickness measurement due to tolerances, not...

Ok, latest incarnation = A series/parallel stack thus ((()))(((()))((())) x 23pairings. This equates to 3 x 1181N(3543N) at 75% deflection and 3 x 505N(1515N) at 30% deflection with an overall travel dist of 4.14mm. I believe this equates to a range of roughly 15psi - 6psi orrrr... I might...

Thanks for this...i had assumed that two washers in series, both compressed to 60% would both provide an equal force....back to drawing board....lol.

Bumping thread back to the top..... Went with a variation on a theme with regards to using the belville washers. My washers were spec'ed such that at 60% deflection they were loaded at 243N. At 20% deflection, they were loaded at 117N The distance between the two 0.24mm. Thus a single part...

I'm surprised you decided the conductive silver epoxy was not worth it. What is your reasoning for this?

Thought this vid was quite interesting...

Fantsastic idea. Great job on these video's. (y)

I dont think you lose much contact area, since the current is also getting pushed through the more conductive stud material itself, to the nut above and then also transferred back to the topside of the tinned lug.

No, you cannot torque to higher than 4Nm, or else the stress goes on the underlying 6mm threads below the flange and above 8Nm, i sheared the stud. I would definately increase the size of the flange area. Edit....a stronger version of aluminium might help of course....but i just find everything...

It was my own idea, to solve my main worry, of going into the cell, but it took some time to source someone to machine exactly what i wanted. Then after i had used then...i would modify if doing the same again.....put a hex on the flange, make it 5mm thick to get a key onto it and i would seal...

Mine didn't have a hex key at the top or a hex shape on the flange, but these were custom made, so you could specify that in your drawing. I was quoted approx £0.88each +vat if ordering 500. I only ordered 17, which cost a total including postage of £128, which made it very expensive. It is the...