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Yes. For now. Until it's empty No they're not. That controller is a piece of junk for any battery. One is higher voltage than the other and the other is lower voltage than the higher one. I googled it for you https://www.techtarget.com/whatis/definition/ampere-hour-Ah-or-amp-hour...

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/new-to-solar.81756/

Given the above, the following applies.

It's not. The BMS doesn't do anything about the charge other than turn it off if a cell goes over-volt. If it is somehow malfunctioning and only bleeding off charge from the LOW cells instead of the high cell, then that would be extremely odd. You really need to top balance the cells.

Have you ever used VRM?

Another real world example: Honey Badger Ranch "idles" along at about: 273W total DC draw 124W DC to provide 87W AC output (70% efficient at such low power) 95W of DC loads (Starlink V1, mini PC, 2x routers) 54W of inverter idle load. Idle eventually gets rolled into efficiency at higher...

LOL.. I'm lazy... I'd only do #8... :P

That screams a connection issue. Redo the crimped ring terminal?

That is a MK3-USB adapter for programming your inverter. it has no other function and should not be connected to the system when not being used for programming or diagnostic troubleshooting. Okay, so is this an ownership change? You bought the trailer/equipment from the person that installed it?

The only thing that one can conclude from the above is that 1st battery is imbalanced. Once cell is at full charge and the other three are at a low state of charge.

This isn't just your unit. It's all of them. Even my very expensive Victron hardware can't do this. You can get analogous function to what you describe, but it works unlike you state and requires hardware capable of a grid interconnect and advanced management. Given that you in are Cali, this...

Picture? Link to auction?

That works. I don't understand. The Cerbo has wifi built in.

Good choice. BUT why so much? You don't need anything near 150Voc, and 60A is well over what you need. 2X 100/50 would be notably cheaper and still meet all your needs. Good choice. This only allows monitoring, not changing any settings. Why not 3S2P and avoid the current issue...

Cross posting is bad etiquette and results in wasted time and effort by those trying to help you: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/upgrade-rv-factory-installed-system.82515/ Maybe try responding to those helping you already. :p

Any rechargeable Lithium is Lithium for Hazmat purposes.

It lowers the absorption voltage to a point that should reduce eliminate spikes (BMS protection events) while still allowing battery to achieve a near full SoC (98%+) over a longer period of time. If you can eliminate the spikes, it should be unnecessary. No. Let it operate with those...

Yeah, if it's not adjustable, that's too low.

LiTime battery is imbalanced and cutting off charge causing MPPT voltage to spike as the battery is suddenly removed from the charge circuit. The MPPT can't clamp down on the current fast enough to prevent a spike. Very common especially with new batteries. Typicaly installed 90+ days since...

If temps are lower, power will be lower for a given BTU/hr. I expect as ambient rises, you will see power consumption increase.

Good that it's a compressor fridge. what's powering it? You have a 24-12V converter? Something like this? If removed, he's cut off provided you've not connected it to wifi. I know you're busy with stuff, so there is no urgency in replying to me. :)

This seems overly complex. If you have an inverter/charger, you may have the option of simply falling back to grid if battery voltage drops to X. When the inverter is receiving AC input, it is charging batteries AND passing through grid power to your loads. What inverter?

The questions are: How many kWh/day do you want to charge? Charge power? Hours of charging? There is no reason to charge at a high rate. One can argue that lower current charging is less stressful to the cells. Mandating that there be no batteries means you're going to have to oversize your...

:oops: Wise man. open door is fine. Additional fan likely not necessary. That vent at the bottom of the fridge is atypical of a propane fridge. Is that a compressor or propane fridge? What do you mean by cutting on and off? Fridges typically cycle their compressors on and off. If it's a...

Dayum... you've gone old school... I think you'd need to experiment with 30.6V as it may take awhile to get cells fully or even nearly fully charged at 3.4V/cell. I needed 5.5 hours of absorption on a 7.5 hour total charge to get to full @ 3.4V/cell.

Nice. That's per battery, so parallel is double. GEL is okay for AGM, but it will likely undercharge as GEL absorption voltages tend to be lower than AGM. If the manual publishes the absorption and float values, pick the closest to your battery spec. Flooded is out as it may activate...

This installation is absolutely shameful. Period. While there may have been severe space restriction, there is NO excuse for mounting it like that. It's absolutely critical that space be left on the SIDES as that's how they eject their heat. As it stands 100% of the waste heat is exiting...

What are the specs on the panels? Have you decided on an MPPT? FWIW, you can leave your existing array in place. There is no harm in having two MPPT on the same battery bank.

240V * 32A = 7680W You'll need about 1.5 to 2X that to guarantee that output for about 4 hours/day, so about 10-15kW of panels. 10kW will occupy about 535 sq-ft. 15kW will occupy about 802 sq-ft

60A is WAY too much for a pair of 55Ah batteries. They likely need to be charged at no less than 11A and no more than 33A. Absorption 14.5-14.9 Float 13.6-13.8 SEL likely = Sealed, which is closest to AGM. CUS maybe CUStom allowing you to enter the values specific to your brand of battery...

AiO trends: Made by/design derived from Voltronics/Voltronics-like = hit or miss. Made by/design derived from Luxpower/DEYE = much better.

Given the little I see in that installation, that's an excellent idea. That person shouldn't be in business. Do you have admin access to VRM?

EXACTLY! It means the dirtbags are WALKING ON HIS PANELZ!!!!

The 230V inverters tend to be less expensive as they likely have more benefit from economy of scale... most of their customers are 230V. You could get a 230V and an Autotransformer ($450) and get 120/240V split phase :P

FFS, is that quattro resting on its side?