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I’m trying that now but I’d like to interrogate them via the bms but I haven’t found anyone that has figured out how to connect to the mother ship on the rt series

This gives me hope I just got four all listed as pulled from working and tested. None were above 3 volts :( I’ll try to wake them up tonight ty for procedure

so i resolved the capacity issue but still would like to talk to my RT's any progress on any front?

did you get any software to work with your RT batteries?

Battery number three

June 2016?

First battery second battery Flashing green led !!!!!8.6volts!!!!! Was 13.6 when I started test on batt one And tested the same when in the trailer I think we found the turd

Update I ran the whole three batteries down and only got 79 amp hours out of it. So I pulled them out of the trailer charged them all up and am testing each battery separately. Not using alligator clips, AND using the four wire config on the DL48 so the testing unit has a reference voltage...

Bringing this back I also have a few RT I would like to examine more closely Disappointing to think I won’t be able to, ordered the cable already and was looking forward to interrogating the battery bms for clues My three only seem to come up with 60aH between them and I’m trying to figure out why

Huh? I moved the board to see the numbers better and an alligator clip launched into orbit?! Thanks for your input

And now I’m pissed because a lead slipped off and I have to start over ?

I ordered a capacity testing kit, so far it’s counted roughly 60 amp hours out using a 10 amp load Double picture was my fault I deleted the second one I set the cut off at 11v

Just noticed two batteries are the U1-12RT and one is the RJ I don’t know if that makes a difference? Also this is happening

Ok voltage on each battery was 13.6 with no amp movement being detected by the AiLi shunt

I have a history of banging my head on walls until i figure it out lol

ok, i re read the thread I have to move my load connections to 1/3 the distance on the diagonal as long as all the connecting cables are the same and the same length. got that. this is getting juicy now :) maybe this will explain why the aili amp meter is not reading the correct amps as well...

great thread, I'm goin going to reread it again im sure they covered a three battery set up in there somewhere and I'll have to redo my battery wires. Forgive the naiveite of this question. I'm truly seeking to understand. If i contact the positive and negative posts on a battery with my...

Check on it-> disconnect all batteries and test individual batteries to verify similar voltages? Confirm if that was the instruction please. Also what configuration would be optimal? I have no inverter to run everything on the trailer is 12 volt. Would one more or less battery be better than...

looked at your wiring again and I don't see anything that I can blame for the voltage dropping so low. But you didn't show a picture of your battery bank. Can you show that? Picture of bank added, they are wired in parallel with the positive on the right most battery and the negative on the...

Yes spot on, and furthermore the Victron low voltage shut off is not shutting off when the input voyage gets to 12 volts either? The SCC had a load output shut off set to 12 volts it’s only job is to run the fridge. The low volt cut off supplies the fuse panel and it is also set to 12 volts...

Ive had the same problem and have been searching for answers. I have a victron 75/15 it will show charging amps of 10-14 with my solar and the shunt will say 20-35. Ive confirmed the readings at 10-14 with a clamp meter and have not one clue why. All the negatives go to a bus then to the...

According to the Victron it’s charging up to 14.47 and resting at 13.6 I can un plug and see if it drops

Last night the last light on the ctek was lit it’s a green battery icon. The pos input on the charger showed no amp movement and the aili showed no up arrow the battery pack measured at 14.0 volts. I unplugged the ctek from the shore line and trailer was now stand alone no power going in and...

Cig port is controlled by a switch so what minimal draw there is zeroed, the two Victron components have Bluetooth which historically is ultra low draw there is nothing else connected when in driveway so no draws there that I can see. I will charge up the pack until there are no amps going in...

Yes, that and when I think I’ve set the equipment to stop delivering power, cut off the loads, the battery with no load keeps discharging. As for the confusing part, yes, full responsibility, that’s why I’m in the. EE guy section so I can learn how to assess evaluate and speak more articulately...

Charged with dumb charger 12v at 10 amps until batt pack was at 12.02 volts. The ctek finally didn’t error out and it’s charging it’s built in profile at 4.5a. So I’ll bring it back from the dead and try it again with the new batt cut offs at 12volts for solar load circut (fridge) and vict batt...

Battery + to resettable breaker to dogbone, connections to dogbone are all pos shunt, Victron solar charger batter lead, Victron battery protect and pos to distribution block, pos ctek cable, pos dc/dc renogy cable Other Pos is from Pv goes to Victron and pos to fridge from Victron Neg batt...

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I have three of the valance Wil P specials in parallel for my camping trailer. It serves the fridge and my cpap needs a few led strips and charging phone duties. I have an aili shunt for external monitoring, a Victron solar charge controller for field recharging and a renogy dc/dc for tow...