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I'm still completely happy with my Generation 3 123SmartBMS and Smart relays. If you have questions it is better to deal direct with 123 Electric rather than GWL. I've always had full answers within 24 hours.

I agree with Ampster. I didn't do any torquing until the M6 stud was sealed in with Loctite Red (just backed off 1/4 turn from the bottom) and dried. All the studs feel rock solid but, as said, the use of conductive and corrosion resistant Ox-gard meant I didn't have to torque them much. I'm not...

If you reduce the conduction area by going to 8mm studs and have then to use aluminium, it would seem simpler to me to stay with 6mm stainless studs and use Ox-gard which as well as being anti-corrosion is also a conductor. This would mean you can use a lower torque so the stress on the stud /...

The number of cells and the Vbalance is set by dip switches. If you have a 4S configuration then there is no switch to move for cell number. I moved one dip switch once in my set-up. V min, V max, T min, T max, Charge restart, Discharge restart, Capacity options and a choice of normal or...

See the size of wire that this guy needed to use, for example.

The dip switches are small and you do need magnification but I moved one dip switch once for Vbalance for 4S and that was it.

Wire was supplied with mine.

I have the 123SmartBMS. Yes, you do have to solder a wire to the board. This, surely, is a fairly basic electrical skill, mastered in about ten minutes on some scrap wire if you haven't done it before. People use very different sized prismatic cells which will have differing diameter taps on the...

Probably, if you can rely on the stainless steel stud to terminal connection but stainless steel (poor conductor) coated liberally with Loctite (no conductor) ... hmm. I'd prefer to ensure that conductivity doesn't rely on the stud.

I'm not planning to charge or discharge at high C rates. All the precautions are because of use in a marine environment with salty air and sustained bumpiness. By 'hot', I mean live. The case is positively charged and the blue plastic covering is easily damaged and represents the absolute...

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Short stainless studs with an allen key head are not expensive. The problem with stainless machine screws is that they can allow damp into the terminal between aluminium and stainless although Ox-gard would be good there too. Loctite prevents that damp getting in. The allen key head means you...

For a marine installation I used 30mm studs stainless M6 studs and cemented them in the aluminium terminals with Loctite. That should stop moisture getting in to set up galvanic corrosion. I have copper, aluminium and stainless stacked on the same terminal so after burnishing all contact points...

I'm sorry to be that guy, but you have used heat-shrink terminals but not heated the shrink to seal it to the cables.

Bottoms now with several coats of liquid tape. Definitely a job for outdoors - that stuff stinks! I've also touched up some nicks caused by putting the cells in an overly tight case. (Now sorted.) As previously said, any point of contact between case and cells and between cells will be lined...

It was supplied by R J Energy but could be any brand. Kudos to that firm for replacing all three of the cells since user-error is certainly an arguable factor.

This is one of three cells from someone on the Lithium Batteries on a Boat Facebook group. it was on painted wood that got damp and presumably there was galvanic corrosion. If you have a little nick in the blue plastic and check the voltage between the case and the negative terminal you will...

Given that the aluminium case is positively charged and the base has no plastic covering I'm wondering what precautions people are taking with electrical insulating. I'm using them on my boat where damp can be a bit of a problem. I'm putting a 0.5mm sheet of fibreglass between the cells and any...

Victron SmartSolar is a good option for LFP as there is a good range of user-defined settings. There are several sizes to match voltage and wattage.

This smart young man also has a view ...

They do operate in a range for LFP and they transfer power.

Thank you, smoothJoey, but maybe next time cut down on the waffle.

I've ordered a mains charger from Aliexpress which charges to 14.6 volts and then switches to constant voltage. I'd like to reduce it to 14.5 volts. Can I simply do this by introducing a bit of voltage drop through either reduced cross section or longer cables? It's a 20amp charger for 270ah LFP...

Any more news on the 123 Smart BMS? I'm interested in this BMS but I've seen some reports of the two end cells going out of balance and the bluetooth connection being unstable.

I'm still in the planning stage with LFP and just thinking through some of the issues. I'd like to be able to switch the charging current from my solar bus between a LFP house bank over to an AGM start battery when the LFP is at my chosen max state of charge level. (Part of the reason for this...

Hmm .. that is small. Thanks for the heads-up.

Thank you. Well spotted!

That's even better news. Thanks!

Good idea. Actually, now I've drawn it out, it looks possible as long as the terminals are equidistant to side and nearest end of the cell so the connectors can be the same length.

Not quite CAD ...

Thanks. It looks like the only way to do it would be for the series connector between the two 'halves' would be the same as all other series connectors.

Thanks for the quick reply. Group 31 size. It would take some drop-ins but I want to be able to separate the charge and load buses.

I've got a 32 foot Sadler sailboat that has a moulded battery box which fits two standard sized 100 ah sealed lead acid batteries. I'd like to use the same space for 200 ah of LFP, ideally making a single battery rather than two batteries in parallel. A 200ah 4S batttery is too big so I have...