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Trojan T105s 6V deep cycle batteries are used in golf carts & RVs.

Mmmmmm . . . I'm going with a Cerbo GX & a hotspot.

x2

Only installed them a few months ago, but my three RECs seem to be very efficient, especially since they've been operating mostly in the shade on my parked RV.

We also used 8 Z-brackets on each of the three 365W REC N-PEAK 2 panels (69" x 41") on our Class A -- Panel Photo (before Dicor was applied to all the bracket screws).

Some DC breakers are polarized, like yours. With directional DC breakers, the highest potential of energy goes to the input side (marked with a + or "LINE"). If installed the wrong way, bad things can happen (ETL testing). Here's a YouTube DC breaker tutorial from MidNite Solar.

I think you're doing what I did with my Victron Multiplus II (My System Diagram) If that's the case, then I think you're running shore power directly from your transfer switch to your Victron. Then you're running your Victron's AC out into your AC breaker panel. Is this all correct? If so...

This x2 . . .

The Cerbo GX cable is a USB/HDMI cable hard-wired to the GX. I suppose you could extend the USB cable with a female adapter on one end. Same goes for extending the HDMI cable.

I think this is the link you meant – http://www.superb.org/power/nec%20tables.pdf

Northern Arizona Wind & Sun

365W REC 2

I don't think your ~ 68" x 45" panels are too big. I installed three ~ 69" x 41" panels on my RV roof. Though my roof space is larger than yours, your 410W panels look great. Good luck!

Current Connected

Three REC N-Peak-2 365W panels

I have a slightly curved roof on my Class A. I just used plastic shims . . .

Where is this table from? NFPA? MTW wire?

If you're talking about Victron's MultiPlus II 12V inverter, it's actually 3000VA, but 2400W continuous.

OP, you are getting a lot of bad (ie, incorrect) advice. For example, 4/0 MTW cable can handle over 400A @ 105 degrees C. Check out X-Flex power supply cable from Cobra Wire & Cable. Suggest you check out other sources of solar info . . . Chad Heiser (CA RV solar installer) - look at the MANY...

I believe you'll need a 300A fuse. If you're using a Victron MultiPlus II, I think Victron recommends a 400A fuse. You could also use a solar panel disconnect switch like this one. Shunt should be as close to the batteries as possible using the 4/0 wire.

You remind of the guy on the Titanic who suggested lowering the ocean to prevent sinking. Instead of trying to cope, leave this campground. That voltage is way way too low and autoformers only boost about 10%.

Adobe Photoshop & Illustrator

Took about a year (fixed income speed) . . . 4th Solar Install Complete

That would short the PV panel since as soon as the breaker was closed, + and – would be connected. The + (LINE) and – (LOAD) on DC directional breakers don't refer to the literal positive and negative on PV panels, batteries, etc. It just means that the LINE side of a DC directional breaker...

Here you go -- system schematic.

For the breaker connections between my charge controller and battery bank, which one is considered LINE and which one LOAD?

Which brand did you use?

What are the 'known issues'?

You CAN use both legs of a single phase RV generator – see posts #9 & #10.

Yes, if your inverter is in-phase (like mine), then the Multiplus II will only "see" L1. Solution for in-phase inverters only: combine generator L1 & L2 before they enter your transfer switch. Here's a video about the process: Changing Lanes (@ 11:04)

This is a voltage drop calculator, not what I'm looking for.

2 AWG MTW 105C CABLE

Can someone steer me to such a chart. I'm interested in stranded MTW copper wire rated at 105 C.

Since you have a 50A system, why not wire your Multiplus II between your xfer switch and breaker panel like so . . .