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I run a tree service and recently bought a F350 flatbed dually truck to tow a 20' dump trailer for hauling tree debris. The hydraulic dump is powered by (2) 81ah FLA 12v batteries wired in parallel. It came with a measly 5A AC charger I can plug into a 110v extension cord, but I'd rather charge...

more pics

More pics

So I finally found the time to make this post which will detail my journey converting a passenger van into a campervan. I can attribute most of the solar setup and electrical system to spending time on this forum and largely the help of @John Frum, who really designed the system and answered all...

I am finishing up the full build. Everything is wired except the feeders to the fridge, water pump, and USB sockets. Most of the furniture is built. The sink is built, but I still have to plumb it. The roof rack is finished, but I have a couple things to button up. I'm closing in on completion...

Thanks for clarifying those details. I'll be sure to charge it to 100% and recheck the voltages at that point.

I have received my SOK 206ah 12V LiFePO4 from shopsolarkits.com! It took 15 days from the date ordered for it to arrive. My novice first impressions are very good for this battery. It shipped double boxed, enclosed in a protective foam mold that completely filled the interior volume of the 2nd...

@smoothJoey Thanks, I was just making sure I had all the tools necessary. You're on top of it! I really appreciate all your help on this project.

Why for both statements? So you like lever nuts?

After this discussion, I think I'll use 12awg with 15A fuses for the low current circuits.

So actually the deal with carbon monoxide, smoke, and propane instead the van is this: CO will only be be present in small amounts when I'm burning the propane. Proper ventilation will be provided by the Maxxair fan and an open window. When I'm not cooking with the propane, the concern would...

So you're saying I should use lever nuts instead of splicing wires? I plan on having a carbon monoxide detector.

@smoothJoey Also I plan to use marine grade duplex wire for the loads like you recommended.

Thanks for showing me that calculator. I'm just now really understanding voltage drop and V=IR. So the 12V cig lighter socket in the combo socket is rated for 120w at 12V=10A. That would be my max current draw. So I used 10A in the calculator. But the fridge will actually only draw a maximum of...

@smoothJoey By the way, I changed all the low current appliance wires to 14awg with 15A fuses. The appliances and the combo sockets will pull under 10A each (actually nothing will need more than 5A) so 14awg should be just fine.

Took me a minute (many hours) to understand why you might have such a system, but funny thing, without reading the wiki article, I literally woke up this morning and some of my first thoughts were putting it all together and realizing what it is. So why do you have it? Are there frequent power...

UPS?

Very cool, where's your panels?

Oh I guess I meant the textual legend, I like it. Ladder is cool too.

Haha I can be rather particular, and I agree for my first solar install that's a good trait to have. I really like having the visual drawing and the ladder style. As long as I can assemble it all correctly and it works, I'll be quite impressed with what our efforts will have created!

For the 12awg low current appliance fuse block wire I planned to use ring terminals to connect to the fuse block. The 10awg is solar extension wire from the panels to the SCC. I plan to use small rings terminals to connect to the DPST on both sides (DPST switch I found has small screw...

6awg 18mm pin insulated ferrules 10awg 18mm pin insulated ferrules So that's what I found for ferrules on ferrulesdirect.com. I only need 2*10awg ferrules and 2*6awg ferrules for the PVin to SCC and Batteryout of SCC. This is the cheapest I could find with the least ferrules. Each size is a...

No way that'll happen, I'm using ferrules man! Just kidding, I gotcha, thanks

Also, so now I'm wiring the scc grounding lug and the scc battery output negative to the negative bus, why do I need 2 negatives from the scc to ground? What's the advantage to doing this?

Still want to be clear on this as well, I'm connecting the shunt positive to the 150A breaker stud on the battery side, correct?

Just to be clear. We changed these from the 100A fuses to 80A fuses in my other final legend. You don't have to repost another drawing, but keep them at 80A right? I was looking at that one on donrowe.com and the 1000w pst. Just can't justify the cost yet for what I predict is something I'll...

This is my negative bus bar right? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753F35Q8/ref=twister_B07N8VXF5S?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 Still using this as my positive bus bar right?

Actually it'll be more like living "out of" the van, which I like. While my design will be more comfortable than living in a tent, it's definitely not the deluxe sprinter van apartment.

Thanks for looking out. Lighting will be very simple led fairy lights with a usb connection to one of the combo sockets. They also have a remote with dimmer. Cooking will also be simple with a coleman propane stove and a little 5lb propane tank. Simple sink with marine foot pump. Bathing in...

@smoothJoey @rmaddy @HRTKD 12 circuit or 6 circuit fuse block? Just get the 12 in case I want to add more than 2 more appliances later? It's gonna be a Blue Sea block either way.

In my finalized legend from earlier we had the chassis ground coming off the negative bus bar. Should chassis ground be from the fuse block or the negative bus? Is your thought to save on another negative wired connection by just making chassis ground come from the fuse block? Move shunt...

Where's positive connection for future inverter? All I see is a negative connection to the neg bus.

Got all that. Thanks. Ok. Is 6 awg good enough or 4 awg since the battery wires are 4?

@smoothJoey Another one: What advantage does the smartprotect provide if there's already a 150A breaker on the battery? Doesn't the breaker protect the battery from overcurrent already?