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My assessment is it is probably a small current being pushed by capacitance. I could understand the floating N-G might cause this in inverter mode but could not understand why inverter's bypass mode caused the glow, when direct grid did not. However the path from inverter's AC Out to breaker...

I did some voltage measurements, disconnected the neutral cable and left the line connected, switch off, between "neutral in" other locations: 1. When on inverter mode (no N-G bond/floating): - to LED frame screws: 120 V - to LED neutral: 120 V - to concrete: 20-30 V 2. When on bypass mode...

I am not sure it is relevant, because the glow persists when inverter is set on bypass mode and there is no voltage difference between N-G, I believe in that situation the inverter is not doing much, it is passing through the grids power (however my issue suggests the inverter or inverter...

I was using an incorrect multimeter in my first set of readings, I think I fixed that. The probes were connected to try and read what Amps were passing through, I just made a post about the results. "Connect brown and blue together and also connected to one leg of power. That would determine...

Switch is a simple mechanical switch See attached picture, if positive line is broken the glow remains, I believe that eliminates the switch not isolating being the cause?

I think the attached pictures fix my measuring technique. When run in series on Neutral getting 0.058 mA When run in series on Line getting 0.10 mA Last picture shows if I disconnect the positive the glow remains If I disconnect negative but connect positive, no glow Probably not important...

Just a quick reply: 115 V is Neutral to Ground, but no ground wire is coming into the lamp, roof is cement and conduit plastic so I am confident there is no grounding of the lamp, and current passing across N-G's 115V is not applicable to the glow. No glow when the circuit is on direct grid...

Only L and N wires, which makes me think it can't be current passing to Ground?

Attached are pictures of the LED and some wiring. The LED only has 2 wires coming in, Live and Neutral I re-tested things, pertinent points: - When circuit is connected to grid supply directly there is no glow - When connected to the inverter, in both inverter and bypass mode, there is a glow...

See pics, yes when glowing there is 0.09 Amps passing through

- Thailand - Inverter: MPP 4kW PIP-4048MS Inverter is on an old firmware without option #38 (for allowing N-G bonding when in inverter mode)

But what about when on bypass the LED still glows? In that situation there is no V difference between N-G?

Thanks for all the replies, I will run some more tests and list out a more detailed post later, but in reply to this question (system is 230 V): [When on inverter mode (no N-G bond)] - ground to neutral ~115 V - ground to line ~115 V - line to neutral ~230 V [When on bypass (N-G bond from main...

Thanks, I replied in the other post that it does not seem to be G-N bond because when on bypass a G-N bond exists but the glow remains. If I move the circuit back to direct grid supply (not through inverter) the glow goes away..

Apologies, this is a duplicate post, I stepped away from the issue for a few months and forgot I had already posted at: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/led-lights-ghosting-when-on-solar-inverter-but-not-when-on-grid-power.77888/

Thanks for the suggestion and sorry for the slow reply. When in inverter mode the AC out is floating, no N-G bond, difficult to fix at this time due to inverter model. However when I change to bypass mode the AC out is no longer floating, it uses the grids N-G bond and there is no voltage...

I have an inverter that has AC In connected to grid, used for grid backup. When inverter is in inverter mode (not bypass/grid) I read a voltage between the grid fed circuits and the inverter fed circuits, this seems wrong to me? Please see attached image, I have simplified it, grid and inverter...

Some LED lights in my house, when being charged from my solar inverter, maintain a ghosting glow (attached pic) when turned off. When charged direct from grid supply (not through inverter) they do not glow. Something I should be concerned about?

Thank you for going into the specs and referencing the settings, that is very appreciated. I understand your answer to my main question "can this old-timer inverter charge lithium-ion/NMC without damaging the battery cycle life?" is yes it can. I have attached a common charge profile for...

1 14 cells

I have a 10 year old Steca Xtender XTM 4000-48 inverter used with lead acids, wanting to move to lithium-ion and was updating settings to try and allow the inverter to charge batteries from grid, but am scared its charge method will damage the batteries. Many sources of information state...

I have this old inverter Steca Xtender XTM 4000-48 inverter that has worked great for 10 years, I want to upgrade from Lead Acid to LifePo4 batteries so need to change it's charge settings, however this inverter has no interface, the parameters were set by the vendor at time of purchase using a...

I have some circuits powered by solar/inverter, and some circuits powered by grid. Some circle LED lights have a dim glow at night-time when they are on the solar circuits, but if I move their circuit to grid supply there is no glow. The glow is constant while the switch is off, it does not go...

After a days testing it does appear to be the same as @rodrick said, when the batteries are low I see the full production/watts passing the Controller, as the batteries become fully charged the watts reduce down. Thanks for the replies

Nah, it goes up to 60A (at least that is the Max Charge Current setting) I recently moved this setup and it regularly worked at the higher watts, sometimes when I first eg turn on 'dc breaker A' the watts will jump up to 1200W then come down to the lower values.

2S3P is correct. Measuring from the Controller, it shows input voltage, output volt/amp/watts. @rodrick may be correct about it showing clipped watt output from the Controller, not the full input watts from the panels.

- Controller feeds into a 48V inverter - Controller: Battery Rated Voltage: 48V - Each pair of panels gives out about 84 volts - LifePo4 48V battery pack Panel Specs: - 455W MONO Genius GS-455WM/HC - Half Cut cells - Open Circuit Voltage: 55.25 V - Short Circuit Current: 10.9 A - Voltage at...

I have 6 matching panels wired up as shown in attached image, but am getting wierd production into the charge controller. - Each pair of panels in serial should be producing about 400 watts - When everything is hooked up expected production should be 1200 watts, I am getting 800 watts - If I...

Maybe I am, I thought I was way under and running over the weekend with not a heavy load but not really charging the batteries seemed strange, however I did add a refrigerator which might be the cause for draining energy down. I will play with it some more -- mainly concerned I had the settings...

Thanks for the reply, I have not seen the BMS show over voltage protection. Only an error about inconsistent current, which is apparently common and unimportant when charging from AC Not on the batteries, max was about 54.2V, goes down to about 48V when discharged. I found it interesting that...

p.s. my assumption is I have set Bulk Charging Voltage and Floating Charging Voltage too high and it is only trickling in charge, but want to double check before adjusting them.

Panels: - 455W MONO Genius GS-455WM/HC - Open Circuit Voltage: 55.25 V - Voltage at Pmax: 44.61 V - 4 panels: s2p2 Inverter: - MPP 4kW PIP-MS4048 - Max PV Input / Output: 3000 W - Max Charging Current MPPT 60A - Max PV Input Voc, MPPT Range: 145V, 60~115V BMS: - Jikong Smart BMS Batteries: -...

Thanks for the replies, I am in Thailand so the temp stays pretty high, but a cold winter morning could get down to about 10°C, I think your advice is good and I will look at adjusting my panels to give a little more safely under the inverter's max

Thanks, so you think the 3 panels in series is too close to the inverters max voltage ... I was concerned about the higher amps and the long cabling to inverter. If I changed to the configuration you suggest, what sized wire would I need, I guess pretty small 2-3mm for the serial arrays, but...

I am not sure which spec is the current rating, attached are specification of the panels I am looking at (the 345 watt option)