Search results

Zero load in worst case scenario for M II 8000 is rated at 29W. In winter I keep it in AES, which lowers it to 19W

We can revive this thread and see what they say: Victron Community Page. I thought the Multiplus II 8000 is heavy, I can't imagine the quattro 15k. 😅

If it is still of interest, I heard that updating the multiplus II 48/8000 to version 508 would make it work in parallel with another one of the same. I haven't yet gotten confirmation from anyone at Victron yet, but hoping to get it.

Here's a final video from a relevant series that does all this research for us! Andy is great: I think this sums it up well, but you can check out the other videos for a full journey related to the discussion here.

My main question was if not bringing the Lifepo4 cells to 3.65 V has a detrimental effect on them over time.

The balancing actually does work pretty well in my case as well, and it does start depending on how you program the BMS. Here is a screenshot of the battery after it went through a short cycle to 100% - it is autumn now - and the bms did some balancing.

Hello fellow solar enthusiasts! My system is working like a charm. I charge the pack of 16 Eve lf280k to 55.2V in absorption, and they are all fairly balanced. I've never seen the delta above 0.020 V. Each cell voltage never goes above 3.5, 99% of the time stays in the 3.45V area when fully...

Thank you all, I love a good discussion on this forum... almost like a pub evening, except we're missing the beer and burger. Summer's over here in the UK :ROFLMAO:, the rain came back and did a much better job than I did trying to reach those panels on the house.

Hi fellow solar enthusiasts! We had a high pollen ? period here in the UK and everything was covered in yellow dust. I knew about the pollen period, but had no idea it can significantly decrease production until I noticed the numbers being quite a bit lower than expected. I noticed in peak...

I'm not even 40 years old... :giggle:... so I'll need numbers. Yes, I've heard 4NM for the older model with welded studs, but haven't seen info on these types I have now.

Thank you everyone for their replies. It looks like I can use either bolts or studs, for bolts I'll have to be careful not to pierce the cells. Does anyone know the recommended torque to tighten these please? Thanks!

Hi, I've got a new series of lf280k, planning to add a second bank to my battery, however, these came with different terminals. The bolts are like in the pictures... Any reasons why I can't get proper bolts (with the head) to tighten the busbars in properly? Thank you

Thank you, everyone! Regarding solar and anything around it, there's no better place to get info. I'm glad I asked, it spares me extra expenses, as I already have the 1/4" x 1" pure copper bar. There won't be more than 300A traveling through it, so that's safe to use. Thanks again!

Hi! I've found various info on Google searches but wondering what would be the right way to size my busbar. For wires, I can look in the table of the providers for the wires I buy. They have an amp specification in accordance to their size. But with a bare copper tape / bar this information is...

Brilliant, thank you everyone so much. I'll be using the long bolts on the sides to mount them on a custom panel. I've already un-bolted the current mechanical lug and it looks like an m8 bolt fits there, so I can put a proper compression lug there.

Hello fellow solar friends! Adding a second battery bank (EVE lf280k), I have bought two Carling Technologies F series hydraulic MCCB (https://www.carlingtech.com/hm-cb-f-series). However, I cannot find any details regarding how to properly mount this - I see very little information regarding...

That's what I just mentioned before I even saw your reply. Spot on!!! And I want to do something like that, replacing the inline fuses with fuse holders instead of connectors. However, I'd like to know that connector name and type from the BMS, if anyone knows...

How's that a point of failure? Other people think otherwise. For example Andy from the off grid garage on YouTube has fuses as well.

That's right, I've read so on the forum and it makes sense for large currents over the small wires, but hear me out... I need to extend most of the balance wires and thought of doing it using dinkle connectors. But then I found similar connectors that can house cartridge fuses and thought why...

Hi fellow DIY-ers, I would like to add fuses for the BMS sense wires, and thus change the wires altogether. I've got confirmation from Hankzor that the wires don't need to be equal in length, but max length is 150cm (see screenshot attached). My question is, do you know what sort of plug...

I've been using the newer jkbms since August without any issues whatsoever. This is the one with the heating pad port, but I'm not making use of it.

Not trying to hijack the thread, but I've seen Andy from the OffGrid garage YouTube channel using Noark breakers and no class T fuses at each battery bank. Any reason why would that not be suitable? Cheers.

Same here, I've done this via the Windows app.

Yes, that's right! I've done it multiple times.

Invert only would try to draw energy from the batteries, so that would very probably disconnect the power when the batteries are disconnected. If the inverter is on pasthru mode, that means grid enabled, but charge disabled.

Hi there, On short, I've got a Multiplus II, SmartSolar chargers, all working in simphony with 16s Eve lf280k with JK BMS. I'd like to add another battery bank and thus would need to disconnect the current bank. I've got a system switch that I can turn off. The question is, can I turn off so...

Yes, that's right, good point... I don't think people do know about this backup option that Solis inverters offer

That's what I thought it is as well, @Joeyhza . Thanks for confirming. And thank you for the link as well, that looks about right.

Hi there, Asking here for a friend who has a Solis inverter installed. What sort of plug is it required to connect the backup circuit? I'll search for the manual with regards to fusing and other requirements... Here's a photo of it:

You're a gentleman, thank you!

Thank you sir, glad to hear this . And to double-check that I understood everything right (I'm a DIY-er learning every day), in the breaker, the positive has to come in in the up right hand side and negative up left hand side? Load (i.e.: MPPT) comes at the bottom of it.

As you can see in the schematics posted initially regarding the combiner box.

Hello there, I need a bit of help to understand the schematics of the following from an official manual: What does Midpoint earth mean? It is first time I see this term... I've got the iC60H, which was confirmed by Schneider to be the same with regards to specs and requirements with iC60N...

Hi fellow solar brains, I've been toying with the idea to add a secondary battery bank in parallel to the current one I have - 16s LifePo4 EVE lf280k. I may add a CATL bank, if I can't find the same EVE ones, or "storage grade" Eve ones... :) However, I'm aware that the banks should have...

I've used a fuse anyways, even for two strings. Made in the end my own combiner box, within an empty consumer unit box that has 20A fuses, a DC mcb and a surge protectoion unit. Then on top of the box, there's a disconnector. All turned out nice and working perfectly!